fleetfootkath

Téo 5 th May

It was a bit of a shamozzle at breakfast this morning. Despite being a stately home the breakfast area was long and narrow and we were all jammed in so to get up and down we had to ask people to shift. It was very congested at the buffet area too. However we didn’t starve. The Canadians were walking in to Santiago today (23 km) so they got off at 9.00am and we followed soon after. I hoped to stop in at the church to get the stamp I missed last night but there was a mass and the church was full.

We met them about halfway and Bill and Gary discussed the bike and Gary took it for a test drive. Bill looked like he had a sale!

Some wag put these up to encourage us or was it the community college?

We were taking two days to get to Santiago so our walk was 10 and 13 km, a short version. It was a pretty walk, though on roads through villages and fields. Only towards the end did we hit forest. It wasn’t all that crowded though we did see lots of pilgrims at cafes along the way. In the afternoon there were few. Our goal was Teo and the Parada de Franco, a Casa Rural with a chef and restaurant which literally sits on both sides of the Camino.

At our first coffee break we saw three young men having their breakfast-bananas, wine and cigarettes. It was only 10.00am. They were having a great Camino!

The country side became more lush and there were glorious roses. We were actually pretty close by car to Santiago (11kms) but still further when you walk. Anne and Bill got talking and missed a turn off but after about 100 metres they realised the mistake and found the turn off. Irene and I were wondering where they had gone because they hadn’t been far behind us. Generally the markings have been very clear and we have hardly needed the book except for understanding the distances and possible stops.

We stopped for lunch at a trendy place we thought was close to our destination. It was exciting to have gazpacho and quacamole and toast for lunch. Irene and Anne had golden milk to drink which had turmeric and other spices. Bill and I had Galician beer. They offered us a blue ribbon no which we could write our wishes for our Camino. It was then tied to the fence. It is a nice ritual and lovely to think those wishes are fluttering into the universe.

Our destination seemed to stretch ahead instead of getting closer but eventually we got to Parada de Francos and were able to rest in the garden. Probably our first real opportunity to do such a thing the whole trip other than our rest days. It was so lovely listening to the birds.

Here they also offered gourmet pilgrim’s meals (€23) at 7.00 pm! We enjoyed the meal though we were ushered through pretty quickly and were home in time for a game of cards! Also a first even though I have carried them the whole trip.

Padrón 4 th May

It was a tougher day with more hills and valleys and warmer weather. We took a few breaks which seemed to drag out the day’s walk but there was no hurry. We met quite a few different pilgrims along the way.

a wall of pupsOne lot was a group of Canadians who were being led by an Australian who lives in Spain. They were also staying at our hotel. They are being supported by a bus so anyone who feels the distance is too great or has any difficulty, has the backup to get to the next town without worry. They are only doing the last 100 kilometres and have other walking as part of the trip. They were a very happy group and at dinner burst into song. They were singing Happy Wanderer and so Anne and I joined in! It was a bit of fun.

As we walked along I got talking to the tour guide and explained about Bill and the bike. He then said he was interested in buying Bill’s bike when he gets to Santiago! Gary, originally from NSW, ptour guides all the different Caminos. I enquired about the French Way after Lyn’s friend said there were so many pilgrims. He said he had been on it a week ago and that it had been busy but not uncomfortably so. I asked the hotel reception here in Padrón what people did if it was all booked out in a town. She said people take taxis and go to the next town and then return to continue where they left off or she said some bring tents in peak summer so they always have some shelter.

Bill doing his jaunty rider impression. Made the bike look so comfy.

Our accommodation here was delightful but if you were too tired to visit Padrón at the end of the day you would not have seen the Church or any of the old town. Padron is small but has a significant connection with Santiago and Saint James was supposed to have moored his boat on his original arrival and it’s where his body was returned from Palestine by his disciples and transferred to land.

We all arrived hot and tired but separately. Anne and I had left Bill and Irene behind while Bill doctored her foot. We expected to meet again but they must have passed us while we were having a drink break and in the end we only saw them at the hotel. This place was a stately home and had a huge wall around it. The GPS guided us to the wall and then started to send Anne and I away! In the end I rang Bill and said we are so close but can’t see it. In the end it just required us to walk along the wall about 100 metres and the entrance was there!

After our usual routine of washing etc we decided to visit the town. I stupidly forgot to bring my credentia and missed getting a stamp from the church. I was quite disappointed. We were going to try this Pulperia Real restaurant for dinner and were delighted to discover that it was open early however when I wanted to order an herbois the waitress insisted it was only served with dessert and I had to choose something else! She did agree to Anne having ice in her sherry though. In the end I said I would have the local Galician wine. I had forgotten it comes in a small jug with a bowl! There were about four glasses of wine in it. No one else wanted to share so I had to drink it all on my own. The next thing was the food. We were determined to have Padron peppers in Padron but she said they were not in season! We have had them quite often but apparently they are imported from Morocco or Southern Spain so not local and therefore not on the menu.

After that knockback we decided to return to the hotel for dinner and had a delicious salad and pradrons. It was a big dinner and late as usual so I slept restlessly.

Caldas de Reis 3rd April

Today was a glorious walk. It was mostly flat and amongst forests and small villages. There were lots of small vineyards or really, plots of grape vines all trained high so we walked under them at times.

Leaving Pontevedra we crossed the Bourg Bridge. It has shells on the supports and is the the bridge built in the 12 th Century that replaced a Roman bridge. It was called the old bridge and that is from where the name Pontevedra comes.

There were lots of pilgrims today and at one stage we got ‘swallowed’ by a huge group. We were just rolling along happily most of the day until lunch time.There were lots of crosses today. They are very old and the statues are very warn. Some look quite pagan.

I received an email relating to a formal complaint from the body corporate in my apartments about Alfie and barking, so that jolted me back into the real world. After a flurry of emails with Hazel, my sitter and Nick my son, I hope we have a solution till I get home. I love my little dog but I can’t have a barking dog disturbing the neighbours. My dilemma is that I love travelling and he is well looked after but he barks when he is left on his own. I may have to think of him and consider re-homing him with some one who never goes away. I have only had a complaint when I was away.

After lunch somehow we all got separated. Irene and I had a pit stop and Anne continued on. I thought I would gradually catch her so I continued. Irene continued after me but left her sticks behind and had to return to get them. As we walked on I checked in a cafe but didn’t see Anne and I didn’t see Bill and Irene behind me so I just kept walking and finally met Dennis from St Andrews on the Peninsula near Melbourne. He and his friend Danny had been riding for four days from Porto and were now walking the rest of the way. They are also with Portuguese Green Walks so were staying at our Hotel. Because I was wearing the tshirt today and Anne too, i thought they might have seen her. When we came to descend a hill Dennis said he had bad knees and would wait for his friends Danny and their new friend Raphael, a Spaniard who now lives in Ireland.

I continued on by myself and was so busy talking with two young American girls from Texas that I walked right over the bridge. I still hadn’t connected with the others so I decided to stop at the nearest cafe, grab a drink and snack and send them a text and also look for the hotel. By the time I checked the book and looked up I realised I was sitting across the river from our hotel! It was almost the same time that I got a text from Bill wondering where I was. They had just arrived.

Our hotel had a thermal water swimming pool and we were soon into it for a swim. It was about 38 Degrees so not super hot but just lovely to be in. Irene would have preferred it warmer but she still had a bit of a soak. We had all booked feet massages and Anne was first to go followed by Irene, then me. It was a great treatment, starting with a soak in alternating hot and cold water, then a massage with a menthol (Piernas liger – light legs) in a circular motion. It was very cold but had the desired effect of loosening up our legs. It cost €19.80 for 30 mins.

We joined the two Aussies for drinks and I finally had an Herbois liqueur over ice. It is a traditional Galician yellow liquor that is slightly herbal in flavour. It was a generous portion. I was keen to have a wander about town but Anne was nursing a sore ankle and Irene was too tired. We killed time until 8.30 when we could go into the dining room.

The food had been reviewed as good so we had expectations of a pleasant meal. When we went into the dining room we selected a table with a menu but were hustled away to the area over the river. We could see it flowing fast beneath us. Bill kept making cracks about us falling into the river when the structure gave way. He was in a mischievous mood. The meal came quickly. A lovely pumpkin soup, things were looking up! Then the main course was a disaster. Bill and I had chicken wings and roast potato slices.They were quite tasty but Irene and Ann had monkfish in a buttery, globby sauce. It was quite disgusting. The piece de resistance however was dessert. Irene and Anne had ordered what they thought was fruit salad but turned out to be a bowl of fresh fruit! Two huge pears, three mandarins, two massive kiwi fruit and a banana. The look on their faces was priceless.

After our 22 km day, a long swim in the thermal pool and dinner we retired to our bungalows. Another big day but we are counting down.

Pontevedra 2nd May

We slept in till 7.00 am and breakfasted at 9.00. This is a basic hotel, clean and no frills. The staff are friendly and helpful but the dining room is basically spartan with no staff at breakfast. I discovered the fresh tomato in jam-like pods by accident. I thought it was plum jam! It was a nice alternative to sweet jam on my toast.

With breakfast done we set off to the Pilgrims church again to receive our stamp and Bill, Anne and I went up the tower. It was rather underwhelming with a good view of the plaza on one side and the rest of the town obscured.

From here we were keen to see the sculpture park alongside the river. On the way we saw a few swimmers racing up the river around huge buoys and decided that this must be training for a triathlon. It was stiff going against the tide and the wind. They were all in wetsuits. The bridge we crossed to get to the park had metal rope like structures to support the bridge and they were clattering in the wind. It was so loud. A most unusual design feature. Below in the water were schools of mullet (?) sunbaking it seemed. They looked really large.

Unfortunately the sculpture park was rather disappointing. The Labrynth looked like a toilet block from outside( according to Anne) and when we walked to the centre it seemed it had been used for such too with lots of tissues and even a pair of underpants on the gravel. The next sculpture was a house squashed into a space between trees and another was a set of granite seats with writing we didn’t understand. This adventure was considered anticlimactic but we did see the promenade along the river and the University before we visited the Pazo de Cultura. Another curious place. There seemed to be an art gallery or exhibition space without a door!

Some what disappointed we took ourselves off to the old town for a delicious menu del dia, 3 courses and a bottle of wine for €11.50. The sculptures around town were far more interesting.

Our leisurely lunch over we strolled back to the hotel where Irene and Bill promptly fell asleep. Anne doctored her ankle with a remarkable cold bandage that works a bit like a Coolgardie safe, in that it uses the air to keep the gel type bandage cool. We talked and I wrote the blog and read up on the next day.

The wind had come back with a vengeance and was howling around the hotel, rattling the windows. We hoped it would diminish overnight. After our big lunch we opted for a sandwich and a drink at a nearby cafe. I had a toasted salad sandwich with egg. A salad sandwich always includes ham and cheese too. On the way back we stopped to check out the vending machines and were most amused to see a vending machine beside the lollies and drinks that had an array of sex aids. We were somewhat confused about some of the items and how they would be used! Travelling sure has its surprises. U

Pontevedra 1st May

It was Anne’s birthday yesterday so she got to lead the pace as we departed Redondela. We took it easy and met up with a father and son who were walking together. The father has walked several Caminos since he retired and feels healthy and fit and at peace. His son said he would like to do one with him because he had a stressful job. The son has been amazed how unstressed he was now. He could barely think of work at all. The walking had also brought him closer to his father. He and Bill had a long chat about languages and other things. Irene commented on how life had become simple while doing the Camino. She felt that she was able to let thoughts go more easily and was more relaxed now too. She had started to feel sorry about finishing soon. We all said our feet and bodies get tired but we still feel better overall.

It was a beautiful walk with a few tough hills to keep us interested and give us good views but mostly we walked through forest and on dirt paths and at last alongside a stream. It was very pleasant and so much softer underfoot.plus the birds are so pretty to hear.

We are starting to see many pilgrims now that the path has merged with the Portuguese Central Way. There are many young people, some in groups, some alone. Many of the girls are travelling solo. There are couples, some oldies and some young, some who walk hand in hand which is beautiful to see. We have met many different nationalities too. I started chatting to a young guy who was with a group of young men carrying a cross. He said he was Italian and he was finding it a bit of a challenge up the hills. They were taking turns at carrying the cross. I tried my basic Italian out and he corrected me politely and we laughed and then it was Arriverderci and Buen Camino and he ran to catch his mates. One young Polish couple we spoke with tried to teach us how to say Mount Kosciuszko with the correct pronunciation. We were not great students but we had a few laughs at our attempts.

As we walked up a hill I started talking with a couple we have passed a few times this day. They were Henry and Lou from Dallas, Texas. He had just retired from running his Chinese restaurant. He was from Hong Kong and was a little surprised when I told him my husband had been from Hong Kong too. It turned out it was his birthday so he and Anne had a photo together to celebrate that coincidence. What would be the odds that you meet someone on the same Camino with the same birth date?

We crossed this old Roman bridge, the Ponte Sampaio, where there had been a major battle in the Peninsula war between Napoleon and Spain and the French were routed and ousted From Galicia. While we were taking photographs a group of Spaniards asked us to take a photo of them at the bridge. They also asked why my husband was riding a bike. I promptly pointed to Irene and told them Bill was her husband. We explained that he had broken his foot and that this was the only way he could join us. We told them we often suggested he scout ahead to save us making the wrong turns! They laughed. The trouble is sometimes when Bill does scout ahead he is watching the road or going up a hill and can’t always see the arrows. He had that mishap yesterday and had climbed a steep hill only to find he had missed the turn off. The good side was the quick downhill to the correct turn off!

We lunched by a fountain. It never fails to amaze me the number of ancient water courses or springs that supply these fountains and still do after hundreds of years. From a country like Australia which always has issues with drought it is a miracle.

We arrived in Pontevedra and settled into our hotel. Another birthday present for Anne was a bath! She had been fantasising about a soak. Fully refreshed we were faced with the dilemma of dinner again. Because it was Anne’s birthday we wanted to go somewhere good and as it was a public holiday (May day) we were unwilling to walk to the old part of town if places were not open. What were we thinking, it’s Europe and Spain and lots of bars were open. Once we found the old town it was abuzz. Pontevedra was one of the first cities to fully pedestrianise its old city centre and has become a showcase for the world winning many awards. It has meant a preserved city but also a flourishing city centre. It has a myriad of charming plazas. This sculpture of famous Gallicians and Anne was at the first square we came across.

This is the famous Chapel of the Virgin Pilgrim which is shaped like a shell.

We had a recommendation for a restaurant from the guy on reception and we were searching for it when we happened on this great Tapas place with a witch on a broomstick as it’s motif. It was modern and the food was fantastic and they served Ruby Port! Another birthday treat for Anne.

Time was moving along so we figured we could fit in another bar before the restaurant but with great delight the bar we selected was the restaurant. The sign said they feed athletes! We thought we were the correct customers then. The maître de spoke with us but said the restaurant was full. We could sit downstairs though on the high stools and we had the best shared plates. This place had a Michelin recommendation so we were thinking the credit cards might be required! While we ate their were queue out the door.

Those were the best pork ribs I have had in years and everything was gorgeous. Best of all it only cost €75 including the wine! Brilliant value, brilliant quality and a great example of modern International cooking. We were very happy pilgrims.

Vigo to Redondela 30 th April

We hit under 90 kms today! The walk out of Vigo was uphill as most pilgrimages are and we soon found ourselves in a road above Vigo, able to see down into the river most of the way. I keep thinking it is a harbour but it is actually the Rio Vigo estuary and it is very wide ( 7 km at its widest) and extends 35 kms north east. It is famous for boating, fishing and shell fishing. We saw lots of oyster farms or mussel farms all around the estuary. It had the most mesmerising blue, especially today because we had a perfect walking day. Blue skies and sunshine, but not more than low 20s in temperature and as well, quite a bit of forest shade too.

Once we left Vigo we had no coffee shops till almost the end of the walk. I saw the sign for a bar and even though it was a stiff 15 metre climb up to it, we decided to have a break. We had completely forgotten the left over tortilla from last night that I was carrying!

The temptation of a chai tea and dark beer chocolate cake was too much for us! It was so nice to get something different to drink (though alcohol is always nice)! Irene even had something lactos free. The young couple were very friendly and used to pilgrims and I imagine pilgrims are their main source of income. Their menu was certainly more trendy with chai and lactos and gluten free options. One pilgrim had left his water bottle on the table and the young man took after him on foot but couldn’t catch him. He said he would go later to town and try a few Albergues. He told us he had cousins in Sydney and was hoping to go in September sometime for about 6 weeks. This place had a magic view too.

We saw this very attractive bridge crossing the estuary.

The descent into Redondela was fairly brutal. Tarmac and steep the whole way. Anne was feeling her feet and hips suffering. Irene was walking strongly but seemed exhausted when we finally arrived. Going down hills is always more difficult on your knees, hips and ankles. I felt my feet getting tender and the knee I had trouble with was a bit tender too. Once on the flat all was okay. Bill had a great day with hardly any traffic and a flat ride till the end.

For the first time when we reached a town we saw lots of pilgrims and there must be at least ten or more Albergues here. We stayed in two apartments that were side by side. On arrival there was one moment of missed heartbeat when we couldn’t find 3 of the bags. They had come early and been put into a cupboard which was then overcrowded with other bags outside. Green walks had not failed us. Our apartment had a washing machine so we promptly washed and spun dry a few garments. I had to scrape a few bits of sard soap into the soap part and then we rubbed sard onto the clothes. They took a while but eventually were washed. It is always a challenge to work the washing machines. Bill has used some laundromats and the water and soap are all pre-mixed! Now that is convenient. We had a clothes horse and heater so we expected the clothes to dry fairly quickly. That is a luxury. In Albergues there is always a clothes line but apartments and hotels just don’t have those facilities so we drape in the bathroom or hang in the cupboards.

We took a wander around town and found an ice cream parlour. With ice-creams in hand we adjourned to a nearby park to relax and enjoy not walking! We were quite fascinated by a steel railway bridge that actually crosses the town in two diagonal lines at above roof height. It is quite attractive actually. I thought about the sky train at home and all the hullabaloo. We also noticed lots of plastic bottles recycled as decorative flowers in the lanes and on the buildings. Apparently there had been a recycling festival in the town for a week. They looked remarkably attractive.

The town has a small old part with winding streets and the shopping always seems to be discreet. Not many have large windows or streets of shop after shop with big plate glass windows. They are even set back from the footpath sometimes.

We had the usual problem of finding a place to eat early enough. Most of the bars open at 5 and restaurants about 7.30 pm if you are lucky. We stopped at a bar for a drink and were given a small plate of cheese and bread with a drizzle of olive oil as well as a bowl of sunflower seeds and a bowl of jubes. This is the custom here and it is usually complimentary. Sometimes you could eat that and have a salad and go to bed!

Everyone was quite tired and we flirted with the idea of buying food from the supermarket but the choices were not as good as we had had in Porto so we ditched that and found a cafe that was offering a €10 meal of 2 dishes, cake, drink and coffee for pilgrims. We all opted for Gazpacho which was fabulous. The peppers filled with seafood had only a mere whiff of seafood but were okay, and the cake was very nice. We had a passable glass of red and a good coffee. Not a bad meal for the price. There was certainly sufficient to satisfy us. By now we were all desperate to get back to the apartment but the town was just starting to buzz. A pilgrims lot is to eat early and sleep well, to rise early and start afresh the next day.

Corujo to Vigo 29 th April

After a three night respite from packing suitcases we hit the road again. Bill had to leave early because he had to ride back to our finishing point yesterday while we ladies were able to catch a taxi. We did take his backpack for him. It was quite busy but he made good time and we were only waiting about 10 minutes before he arrived. It was so misty this morning yet not cold. Bill had a great photo of the harbour as still as a mill pond.it felt a little odd to take off from the middle of our day’s distance but this has been the nature of this trip. The distances have been customised so the walking day is not too long, especially for Bill who has a damaged foot. It is a more relaxing walk and there is plenty of time to see the countryside and the towns.

We had all read our notes and wanted no repeat of yesterday’s confusion. We were determined to be vigilante about yellow arrows. We had a few discussions over interpreting the notes and Bill engaged the GPS app that is part of the kit, but which we have found very hard to use. Eventually we arrived in Vigo after a delightful walk. The sun was out and although cool initially it warmed up towards the afternoon.

This church of San Pedro de Matamá had unusual roof decorations. It was a Romanesque style inside.

At lunch time as we entered Vigo and came across the Parque de Castrelos. Here the notes were so ambiguous we all had different views. In the end after eating lunch and resuming the walk we determined that we had entered a main gate rather than the subsidiary gate and we were actually on track. A woman suggested we visit the castle that was at the top of the hill and as it was on the way we did. The castle Quinones de Leon itself was not open( it is Monday!) but the gardens were and they were beautiful. There were magnolia trees that had trunks like old gum trees! There were camélias that were equally as old and the size of trees. It was such a lovely uplifting garden. They are restoring its maze too. Apparently Marie Antoinette used to visit. This is a magnolia tree!

It even had exposed roots like Moreton bay fig trees. They are hard to see in the shadows.

As we left the castle we saw the yellow arrows again! We followed them for a long time along a little stream not unlike the Philosopher’s Walk in Kyoto. Once again we started to climb and we then had a decision. Follow the arrows or the GPS to the hotel. We opted for the GPS as it was closer by that route and it was warmer now.

When we arrived at our hotel after a bit of Discussion about the best way to cross the four lane road, the manager at reception kept putting the incorrect passports with Bill ‘s! Irene had to say eventually she and Bill had the matrimonial and Anne and I had the share. He just couldn’t get the passports sorted. Not very inspiring and an uninspiring Camino stamp too! When we collected our luggage Anne’s Green walks tag had fallen off and I thought she had lost it so I asked for a photocopy of mine to attach to her bag. He was very quick to do that so that was reassuring. Then when we moved Anne’s bag it had fallen on the floor underneath so we were relieved. The luggage shifting has been excellent. Always there on our arrival.

Bill has walked a lot today and scouted ahead. He has earned his big beer again.

Anne had good news from Sophie this morning. She didn’t need to have the operation to drain the cysts that have contributed to her serious illness. They seem to be draining of their own accord. It seems that very very gradually she is getting better. It is such a relief. We continue to light candles for her wherever we can.

One of the creatures I have met along the way was a very friendly donkey. He just loved having his ears scratched..

We had a budget meal tonight in a cafe because no other places were open. It was a very generous amount of tapas and not great wine. We have tasted better but the willingness of the waitress and the cheap cost compensated. Today we only spent €15 per person.

We are not in the old part of town here in Vigo so it is hard to see its charm. It seems more like a working city. It is one of the largest provincial towns in Spain that is not a Capital of a region. There was this quite arresting statue in the centre of a roundabout as we walked out for dinner. The sculpture is of five horses ascending on a waterfall driven by an intrinsic energy. The sculptor Juan Oliviera is renowned for his horse sculptures and is known as “The Lord of the horses”.

For the first time we had internet and energy to play the Age weekend quizzes after dinner. Now that is an improvement in stamina.

Baiona to Corujo 28 th April

We were expecting a fairly cushy walk today of only 15kms but we were so wrong. The trail was well marked nearly all the way till we got to an overpass. On the way I was interested to see a few fountains that people still take water from. This one not far out of town was restored in 1593-1734 and 1993 and was still being used.We crossed a mid 13th C bridge which had a very amusing folk tale attached to it. The bridge was built with arches for pedestrians to get out of the way of carts. In the middle was a cross with the image of Saint Telmo the patron saint of sailors. On a stone table, the altar piece had three souls. Fertility rites were celebrated upon this bridge. After midnight, women who couldn’t get pregnant had to persuade the first man crossing the bridge to pour water onto their wombs and be godfather to their babies. We think they white washed that tale!

At the highway there were conflicting arrows. One path went beside a little creek and the other went over the road via a blue overpass. Anne and I took the overpass because there were more arrows pointing that way. Bill and Irene who were a bit behind us took the stream. Anne and I waited about 20 mins then rang Bill to find out where they were. Once we had made contact Anne and I decided to continue and Bill and Irene eventually caught us up. We stopped at a grassy spot for lunch and for Irene and Bill to catch their breath.

There was a beautiful brown horse in the yard opposite. Irene had left her sticks against the fence and he started to nibble them. I was chatting to him and decided to give him half my apple. He seemed to be rather excited by that. He was quite friendly and let me pat him and took the apple gently. He must stand there pretty frequently to get the attention and snacks from pilgrims.

Some signs we saw along the way on a wall.

We resumed our path and crested the hill where we found a few bars which our notes suggested would be a good place for lunch as there was nothing till the end from now on. We had no need for more sustenance so we continued up into the forest. There had been many steep inclines through semi rural areas and we all stripped off our outer layers. We made quite brisk time till the hill top forest, then it all went pear shaped. No arrows to be seen to guide us. There were three roads and the notes seemed ambiguous. Bill gallantly rode down a steep incline to see if that had arrows but he didn’t see any and returned UP again, so we took the path straight ahead that a woman had assured us was the way.

Unfortunately it wasn’t. We walked along a dirt road for what seemed like ages. We could see the town below us but no path appeared to take us down. I was tracking our distance and we were almost at our 15 km goal but not the end of the walk. Eventually we resorted to google maps and took a logging track down the hill. It was amidst a blue gum forest and the path was rough and ungraded with loose stones. Anne was anxious about her knee. Bill had to manage the bike and his sore foot and Irene was feeling really tired. As we got further down the hill my spirits lifted because the houses were getting closer and eventually we emerged onto a street at the very edge of the town. We went straight down to find our destination, the 12 th Century Church of St Salvador de Coruxo. And it wasn’t even open. Here we saw a few pilgrims again and yellow arrows.

Others had had difficulty with this stage too so we didn’t feel too bad but we had walked a couple of extra kilometres over really rough terrain. We felt very pilgrim like!

We then found a cafe where we got our well earned stamp and had drinks while we waited for the taxi to come and return us to Baiona. It will bring us back tomorrow to start the next leg from here. Poor Bill had to ride back to Baiona and will have to ride out again tomorrow because there are no vans available to transport his bike. He will have earned his Cerveca Grande( large beer). The next leg will take us on to Viga and we won’t be so blasé!

Baiona 27 th April

We had scheduled a rest day in this town and so after breakfast we explored the Monterreal Fort which is at the Monte Bois peninsula. It has been inhabited as a walled precinct for over 2000 years with the Celts, Phoenecians and Romans befor Christian settlement. The town was developed by royal decree from King Alfonso lX and was subject to many attacks from corsairs (pirates). There are really only the walls left of the fort but it is impressive from the land and harbour..

The tourist office had a good booklet of a few historical walks we could do in town or rather use to identify the objects we had seen already! There is a replica caravel ( ship) of the Pinta on which Pinzon and Columbus sailed to the new world and on which they returned to Spain and visited Baiona.

This event was also commemorated in a sculpture portraying the meeting of the old world and the new world and was placed on the area where an American Indian, who had returned with the explorers was buried.

Irene and Bill went off for a rest and Anne and I decided to go and put our feet in the ocean. We walked the length of the promenade to a beach where we found some unique shells and waded in the very cold water. It was lovely to wander on the sand and then over to another sculpture and little chapel.

The chapel of St. Marta had been sacked by Sir Francis Drake, described here as a pirate supported by the Queen of England, Elizabeth 1. He sailed into Baiona to capture Spanish gold and found the town unprotected, but a Spanish army was galvanised and fought back to recapture the town. In the fighting Drake burnt the church which was later rebuilt.

We met Bill and Irene in the bar and headed of for a drink and dinner. After last night’s blow out we were looking for something simpler but after strolling around we saw this gourmet gin bar that served Tapas. It was very trendy and we succumbed to the quirkiness. Anne was feeling all puffy from her cold still and didn’t want any photos so we chose to sit in what had been the fire place. She and I were somewhat concealed by the overhang of the mantle. We ordered fancy cocktails and mocktails which were quite delicious and a few tapas which were all so tasty. We ended up over budget again. Just as well we are getting our lunches free at this hotel!

That night we slept well in our new room insulated from the street and overlooking a skywell-no view. Irene said she had heard us laughing because they are above us and face towards the sea but overlook the lightwell too.

Baiona 26 th April

We were assured of lots of cafes on the way today so no lunch required but the toilets were a long way apart! The trouble with a coastal walk is the lack of bushes and the open nature of the walk. There were some tense times for us all. Eventually we headed into the hills and some genuine steep inclines. After all the flat walking it came as a shock. There were quite a few packs of cyclists and some found the rocky decline challenging. It was hard for Bill to push his bike up the hill and then negotiate the descent. I think we all enjoyed the change of environment but we still had glimpses of the coast. This part of the coast of Spain is called the coast of death because of its rugged rocky coast on which many ships had foundered.

We met a few new pilgrims from America and lots of Italian and Spanish cyclists whizzed by scaring me witless. They are so focused on the terrain and they don’t have anything as sissy as a bell.

It was a lovely walk through eucalypts again. They are so common here and in Portugal that it seems a bit surreal. No wonder they are suffering the forest fires that are so familiar to us.

We entered Baiona and stopped at a very old church with most unusual features. We discovered later it was Saint Liberata’s Sanctuary. It was built in 1695 and dedicated to Saint Liberata, her sisters and her nursemaid Sila. She was the first Christian woman to receive martyrdom on the cross. The high altarpiece represents scenes from her life and also an equestrian figure of the Aposttle Santiago.

We stopped for refreshments at a cafe but while the German women pilgrims were there everyone was smoking and nobody was offering service. We decided to move on and round the corner we found a fabulous cafe where the Empanada had just come from the oven and there were no smokers. We saw the Canadians from Victoria B.C. who recommended the pizzas too. It was delicious and such a nice change from our usual fare. They directed us to our hotel which was at the bottom of the street.

Anne and I were delighted with our room because it had a large bath and roomy bathroom. We both took a long soak. I have begun to get into the swing of a good soak after a walk. It is such a treat. After we had bathed and washed our clothes our pristine bathroom looked like a laundry. This place had lots of hangers too!

All spruced up we went for a wander around town. It is a pretty place on a large round bay and with the sun out and the sea sparkling it was very attractive.

We were in the quaint old part of town and eventually we settled on a restaurant that would take us for dinner at 7.30 pm. We had a lobster paella which was delicious though the local lobsters were fairly small. Bill just about catapulted his rice and lobster across the table in his attempt to get the meat out of the shell. It was a messy, delicious and expensive experience. Our budget was blown big time.

Replete, we returned tired and ready for bed. Anne was struggling still with her cold and desperate for sleep. I heard this snapping sound and when we looked into the square we could see the bar putting the chairs away. It was 10.00pm and we were delighted. Our delight was short lived. The street either side of the hotel is sprinkled with little bars and restaurants which only start at 10 pm. The revellers caroused all night till 5.30 am. We couldn’t sleep at all, even with the double glazed windows closed. At about 6 I finally drifted off to sleep, only to be woken at 8 am for breakfast. Irene and Bill had also had the same problem. This is the disadvantage of being in the old part of town!

We both decided we needed to change rooms if we were here for three nights. The guy at the hotel said initially it was a holiday and shrugged but we were not deterred and asked for a room away from the street. By the end of breakfast the reception staff had found us an internal room so we shifted straight away.