fleetfootkath

I have arrived in Perth from Melbourne to join a group on the Cape to Cape walk. Unfortunately Perth is being impacted by Cyclone Narelle in the north so it is wet and grey and a bit chilly. Tomorrow we are picked up and driven to Cape Naturaliste to start our walk

I was meeting a friend from the Caucuses trip for dinner. By 6 pm the weather was blustery and very wet. There were huge puddles we had to dodge and my lightweight umbrella did several inside out flips. The Indian restaurant we went to for dinner had sandbags at the front door! The puddle on the road was so deep every car turning left splashed the footpath so completely they needed to prevent inundation.

It was a bit calmer when we left at 9pm. I was tired after an early start and long flight so crashed quickly into a deep sleep. At 12.30 I was rudely woken by the hotel fire alarm. I poked my head out to smell but decided to comply when it lurched into Evacuate! I found my shoes and fleece and( grateful for my leggings) headed down the stairs. I was correct that it would be a false alarm but you never know.

Back to bed and sleep till 5.30am. I am being picked up at 8.00 but after eating so much last night I am not sure I can face an early breakfast.

LOCATION of the walk. This is taken from the brochure of the Cape to Cape Explorer tours. A very friendly and efficient group.

In the far south-west corner of Western Australia, a broad peninsula projects into the Indian Ocean – ancient, wild, and stunning.

Running north to south along its western edge is the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, the setting of the 124km Cape to Cape Walk Track, and backdrop to the Margaret River region. Beginning at Cape Naturaliste in the north, the Cape to Cape Track meanders through windswept limestone ridges, deserted white beaches, giant granite marbles, and towering Karri forest to finish up at Cape Leeuwin in the south.The Margaret River Region is renowned internationally for stunning scenery, world-class beaches, gourmet food, and fine wines.

Sounds so enticing! It will be a balm for my disappointment at not going to Spain.

When I emerged in the lobby in time for the pickup there were a few others and we hastily introduced ourselves and headed for the bus. It is still raining! As a hiker I don’t mind if it rains while you are on the track but it is quite literally a dampener when you have to start from a warm place and walk into the elements. That is a test of your fortitude and part of the adventure.

By the time we arrived at our halfway stop for breakfast, the Miami Bakery which had very cute colourful painted kangaroo sculptures all around the garden, the bus was in trouble with stuck gears and we needed to wait for a replacement. It soon arrived and off we went again. It was still raining and cold. Not long after we arrived at Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse and the beginning of our walk. Our guide Mike had a geological theme to share with us. It was the beginning of the routine of specific themes for each day and each guide.

Mike explained that this part of Western Australia was a remnant from when we separated from Gondwana and India drifted north.

Our first prominent granite outcrop was Sugarloaf Rock.

Other strange things we came across were limestone remnants of forests! Hard to imagine but they were tree trunks or roots that were encased in sand that became limestone over time.

We continued walking in blustery, drizzly weather for the rest of the afternoon. I was getting hungry as I had been only able to eat a Chia pot at the cafe! Bakery not the best for gluten free.

As we progressed through the coastal heath we could look back at Sugarloaf to see our progress.

I hadn’t bothered with rain pants (I hate them because you seem to get as wet inside as you might have been outside!) which was okay as the weather was drizzly but the heathland path was narrow and so I was pretty wet from the thighs down from brushing against the plants. Wet but still warm and quick to dry when we left that terrain and returned to the beach. It was a long day when we finally arrived at Surfpoint our base for the week.

Last night while we were recovering in the sun on the balcony, I had the last of my tube of pringles out for a salty nibble and Peter from Port Stephen’s wandered over with a small bottle of Jack Daniel’s. He asked if I would like some as a thank you for sharing the Fruit crumble the night before. I had no hesitation and received a tipple with great enthusiasm and gratitude!

We were amused by the number of walkers stretched out on the surrounding boardwalks in the sun having lazy naps. Peter used to work for the Department of fisheries in NSW and had some amazing stories to share. He has only recently retired and had been hiking in the Snowy mountains before coming down to the three capes with his friends. One had pulled out at the last minute which was the place I had taken. A charming guy with a great sense of humour and gentleness about him. He was so tall that i would need two or three steps to cover the same ground!

The ranger called us all for the evening talk which usually covered the next day‘s activity and our departure from Fortescue Bay to Port Arthur. There are two groups as the track out is too rough for a large bus. Sam was on the 2.00pm and I had decided I might need to take the whole day so elected for the 4.00 pm.

That night I ate everything except a couple of protein bars so the pack would be as light as possible. We were expecting a sunny day like yesterday ( about 18C with a cool breeze) and although the day was shorter (14 kms) the time was about the same, 6-7 hours due to the elevation and stairs. This hike might be three capes but I am sure it is 30,000 stairs! My knee had had a bit of a twinge the night before so I strapped it and my dodgy foot. I was very grateful for my walking sticks too. They really helped to take the pressure off the knees.

That night we actually played cards rather than go to bed. Good old UNO is easy to play and we invited Mark to join us. It turns out Sam is an expert after playing lots with her kids. mark was strategic but still neither of us could win a game. He left to go to bed and Adele the young daughter of the small family group took his place. Well she beat Sam and I just failed every hand. It was fun and probably revved us up because I didn’t sleep as well that night.

Up early and away quickly we entered an amazing change of forest. In this cold outcrop there was a rainforest with ferns, moss and large tree ferns. It was so different and hilly. Lots of steps!

As we walked through this magical forest I saw a moss covered log that I thought looked quite biblical. Was I hallucinating after all the steps?

I climbed and climbed and then we arrived at the Copper Throne or Once upon a time, apparently a few walkers picked up leeches here but I was spared that.

Any seat was a relief after cresting Mt Fortescue. Then the next view was Pillars of the South. Trying to capture the colour of the sea was beyond me.A deep sapphire blue always but never able to be replicated in my photos. The creamy white foam around the rocks below and the shallower turquoise surging and retreating all the time so that the sound of the sea was our constant companion. It is a soothing sound.

What I couldn’t understand was the absence of sea birds roosting in the cliffs. They were on the water but we barely saw any roosting on the cliffs. The forest was quiet too, with the grey strike thrush the most common sound I heard.

Finally I arrived at the turn off to Cape Hauy. I was weary after all the steps up and down to get here but I proceeded to take off my large pack and set off for the Candle Stick and the Totem Pole out at the end of the cape. A few returning walkers ( day trippers looked so fresh because they only walked up from Fortescue Bay an hour away) encouraged me with how fantastic it was. I looked out over the valley and groaned but never wavered.

Onwards I plodded and got hotter and hotter with the effort but finally reached the end where you can marvel at the challenge to climbers offered by the Candlestick and the Totem pole. Terrifying to me. As we looked over the sea below was boiling with a school of fish and a dolphin and seal having a good feed.

I stopped for lunch and managed to capture a little wren who was hopping around for crumbs. They dart so fast it was hard to get a good picture.

I hauled myself up and headed back up the stairs again. Just as I was almost back to the top I met three women who commented on my lipstick. ( By now my cheeks were as bright as my lips!) They thought it was extraordinary while I thought one of them was. She was wearing sequinned hot pants over tights, a cowboy hat and dangly earrings! They decided they all needed lipstick and we should have a group photo. Honestly I don’t know what is so odd about the fact I wear lipstick even when hiking. Without it I look like I am dying and it weighs nothing in your pocket.

I reached the top and was excited to see only another hour to go. But still steps!

Once I got to a flat downhill path I was flying! The beach at Fortescue Bay came into sight which gave me a further boost. Soon I was there and I had made it by 1.30 pm; 6 hrs for an older hiker was something of which to be proud. I met up with the early departure group but elected to change into my swimsuit and go for a swim. No dramatic plunge but a tentative wade in up to my neck and a quick breast stroke was all I could mange. It was crystal clear and very cold. FREEZING! It is the southern ocean after all. Little fish swam around me and I waded back to thigh height and let the water soothe my tired legs and feet. I had laid my hiking gear on the sand to dry as it was wringing wet. Good old merino, no smell! The sun dried it quite quickly and I recuperated for awhile before using my token for a shower and heading up to the others and the bus stop to be taken to Port Arthur.

It was a brief stop at Port Arthur to collect my suitcase, deposit my rubbish (you have to carry out all rubbish) and back on the bus to Hobart. We were all pretty dozy but detoured to drop off some hikers who were catching flights that night. I had elected to stay overnight and leave the next morning.

I felt pleased I had managed to keep up with everyone and carry a full pack. I was happy to have made a new friend and that I had done it on my own. Most people were surprised that I had come solo. I had time to relax and unwind from all the disappointment of my cancelled trip. It was the best medicine.

I woke really early and took the long, long walk to the toilets. The eco toilets are a bit like Japanese loos. They have a breeze that flows around your bottom! The sun was just starting to rise. All was quiet and still. It boded well for a sunny, warm day.

The cabins don’t have any lights so returning to them is like entering a black hole and it is very hard to close doors quietly as they are made to resist animal incursions. I snuck back in as quietly as possible and climbed into my top bunk. At first I was a bit uncertain about climbing up to the top bunks. They are very sturdy and the ladders are solid but with a large gap to the ground from the bottom step. For a shorty like me, when I backed down I was kind of dangling to feel for the floor. I eventually mastered the last step by going down facing forward with my bottom on each step. It was much easier to find the floor! Being on the top bunk is actually more private in a way. Your own little world. It wasn’t much longer before I was dressed (in the dark as well) and ready for breakfast. This was my lightest pre-prepared meal. Porridge with powdered milk, cinnamon, sprinkle of lemon infused sugar, a little bundle of nuts for protein. All I needed was hot water. It was light to carry and possibly more delicious than anything else I brought! I enjoyed it immensely. I think the powdered milk is the secret. It seems rich and flavoursome. When we hiked like this in the past I had become pretty good at simple light meals but this adventure was an impulsive decision, so preparation was somewhat scetchy.

The kitchen was beginning to fill with hikers and joyful chatter. Everyone was excited by the challenge of the longest day (19 kms). We all checked out each other’s breakfasts. The tuna and biscuits that Mark had was a bit hard core for me. One of the women from the ‘ girlfriends escaping the kids’ group had eggs and veggies and was making breakfast burritos. She had wrapped her eggs in her dirty clothes to protect them.

Once I was done I returned to pack up ready to leave. A task somewhat challenging in the dark rooms. Everyone was up so I didn’t have to be quiet at least. I had to use my phone light to check I hadn’t left anything behind as my head lamp had gone almost flat.

Sam was also ready so we set off together both exclaiming how light our packs were without everything in them! The pack hut wasn’t far and soon it was day pack only walking. Up we walked to Purgatory hill, which seemed strangely named, until we were returning in the afternoon! Along the way are all these specially designed seats for a rest. We didn’t sit in all of them but the names were fun. Eye see Bright, Sex on the cape, Haul away, Wicked winds to name a few.

The walking was a mix of board walks and paths, fairly exposed so we were glad it wasn’t windy. Lots of flowering tea tree and banksia lined our path.

The next challenge was to climb the Blade, an outcrop of stone cliff facing the lighthouse on the island.

This coastline has the highest cliffs in the Southern hemisphere. They must be overpowering from sea level. The Blade looks directly across to the lighthouse on Tasman Island and we were intrigued by how they would have even got onto the island because all sides seem perpendicular! Apparently they used to use homing pigeons for messaging but if the pigeons weren’t sent regularly they would forget the home! They would send messages like ‘ all well’ just to keep the pigeons trained.

There is a narrow part climbing up to the Blade when only one person at a time can pass through. Fortunately we were well ahead of most walkers so we didn’t have any issues with waiting.

After continuing on to the final point at Cathedral rock we turned for home. We spent some time trying to discern whether there were Seals in the Seal spa. Binoculars would have solved that question but in the quest for a lighter pack I left them behind.

Sam and I were delighted to come across a Tasmanian Echidna waddling along the track. They are furrier rather than spiky, an adaptation to the climate. It was completely calm and un-bothered by our taking photos. Echidnas are my most favourite Australian animal.

Sam and I pressed on. The distance of 19 kms started to be felt in my left foot. The sun was high and we walked strongly but I regretted not having a drinking bladder. On your own you have to basically take off your pack to get to your water bottle. While the day pack was not such a bother the larger pack is, and especially if I am wearing the poncho too. I will invest in a water bladder for future solo hikes. Now the steps going up over Purgatory Hill took their toll. On one of the exposed boardwalks Sam startled a black tiger snake sunning itself. It slithered off quickly. We stopped to see where it might be, then looked at each other as if to say are we nuts? Snakes are best left to themselves!

Finally the pack hut came into view and we took a break at Munro to repackage, refill water bottles, pit stop and then headed off to our last night’s lodge Retakunna an hour or so away.

I started to feel fatigued until I saw the Hut marker. That put a spring in my step as it was only 10 more minutes to relief!

The group from Port Stephen’s. Retakunna Lodge

Some of you will be confused by the blog title. I should have been walking from San Sebastián Spain to Bilbao but the war in the Middle East starting the very evening before I was to fly resulted in cancelled flights.

Devastated but undeterred I decided to maintain a holiday frame of mind and see what I could do while I wait for flights to Spain to resume.

I have wanted to walk the Three Capes in Tasmania for awhile but it is always booked out for the times I wanted. Not this time. There was 1 place left for the 12 th so I pounced impulsively.

Gosh I forgot about having to take food etc! It has been a few years since I had a full through hike backpack. My resolution wavered but I was encouraged by my friend Kim and her husband who had just completed the walk a couple of weeks before.

I went into prep mode and dragged out my old friend my 50 litre Osprey back pack. A rather scruffy pack these days after about two thousand kms of hiking. An old bag on an old bag!

So here I am about to board the ferry for the first days hike (thankfully only about 4kms).

I had a good look around Port Arthur and there seems a lot more to see than when I was here about 30 years ago!

The ferry ride was quite exhilarating with wild wind and water flying. We were all grateful for the red ponchos. Even more exciting was an albatross and three dolphins that escorted us to Dennson cove the start of our walk.

When I arrived at Surveyers, our first lodge I was overwhelmed by a downpour of rain and blustery wind. It nearly blew me off the boardwalk!

So far I have met a lot of friendly hikers and there are a couple of solo walkers. Lots of women! It is cold and I am going to bed early!

We visited the Heyda Aliyev centre designed by the world renowned architect Zaha Hadid. We had seen this awesome white wavy building as we drove in and around Baku. Entering it was an experience in itself regardless of its contents. It was like being in a cloud. Soaring ceilings, light and white, even the stairs! Not corners just curves. Its design was a direct rejection of the conformism of Soviet rule and Brutalist design. Aimed at accessibility to all and as a space to celebrate Azeri culture and arts.

Another excursion out of town to see the Mud volcanos seeping methane, oil, and mud. It isn’t hot though as one would expect. Driving to Gubastan we were once again in the Luna scape, barren dry and almost treeless except where trees had been purposefully planted. Despite the look we saw shepherd with flocks of sheep.

The landscape we were traversing

Arriving at Gobustan National Park we found a very new complex (only open a couple of weeks) with a museum of cetaceans from the Miocene and Pilocene periods (23-5 million years ago approximately) that had been discovered in this area under the mud. Would have liked more time in there.

Azerbaijan has the most mud volcanoes of any country spread across the country. (350 of the 700 across the world!) It is no surprise they are associated with oil fields and apparently not unlike the surface of Mars. My view it was a lunar scape was close – just wrong planet!

Within the park was another mountain with petroglyphs from ancient inhabitants. Hordes of tourists made this a bit of a chore in the heat but was quite interesting. The Soviets apparently had carved numbers beside the examples which Anne had assumed were part of the inscriptions! We all had a chuckle but you see so many marks made by stone that it was understandable to consider they were some other symbol that just happened to look like numbers to us!

A more modern view of art and craft was evident at the Carpet museum, housed in a building built like a rolled up carpet!

Another place that could have absorbed more time easily but we were off to do some souvenir shopping then a mass at the Catholic Church to finish our tour.

The priest was from the Silesian order in Chennai and he spoke of having a multicultural parish which consisted of 5 priests with a variety of languages. He was rather old school and we were blessed and given little tokens which he assured us would protect us against all dangers (a very big promise that John our tour leader asked us not to test!).

The church was very plain compared to all the orthodox churches and mosques we have visited but had beautiful stained glass.

Tonight was our last of the trip and so we were having a banquet with a surprise of local folk dancers. They were elegant and we were urged to get up. Anne, Randa and I obliged. It was fun but we had no idea what we were doing and in comparison to the dainty elegant female I am sure we looked like galumpers!

Next morning at breakfast we noted some of the mistakes in translation.

Some exploits of our travels: such as the taxi without an extra seat that didn’t deter the ever cheerful Beryl, who quietly climbed into the boot of the hatchback!

Ray who had back problems but came to ensure his wife would have this trip and was always cheerful and great company, despite his physical discomfort.

Always queued for the pit stops.

The toilets that surprised:

Toilets are always a challenge when travelling and we came across a few that left a lot to be desired. For those that aren’t used to squatting some where just a bend too far! This was a pleasant surprise at a lunch stop in Guba( Quba).

Service when we could pay individually was common and not the effort it often is here in Australia.

Our last night at Baku caused Anne some anxiety when she couldn’t find her house keys or credit cards. I said we need to call on St Anthony and quoted a chant Trish ( in our group) swore by.

‘St Anthony full of grace please reveal the hiding place.’

Sure enough next morning when Anne went into the bathroom it suddenly occurred to her where she hadn’t looked and there were her keys and cards!

Our spiritual guide was alarmed when we joked about no choice in the attendance of morning prayers on the bus. We were trapped. He had no wish to force anyone. I reassured him I was joking! Chris was very relieved. It was a meaningful part of the experience that added an extra dimension to our explorations. His willingness to engage in discussion with our Orthodox and Muslim guides on differences and similarities across faiths was enlightening.

It is a surreal experience to see flames coming out of the ground and it isn’t a bush fire!

Many meat dishes in Azerbaijan came with flames.

In all countries we visited, animals roamed freely, big and small, healthy and happy.

This has been a wonderful experience exploring countries so unknown and so politically challenged, historically and even presently. History is ever present and intertwined with faith, humanity and politics.

To meet a group of people who were completely unknown to us under the auspices of a Christian Pilgrimage raised a few eyebrows when we told our friends, but our trust in John and Randa was justified by finding our companions well travelled, interesting, humorous, kind and helpful human beings. I thank you all for the companionship and friendship we have found.

Today was a venture into the country side. What a contrast to around Baku. Outside of Baku is like desert and there are Donkeys( oil wells) and gas towers but as soon as you go towards the hills everything changes. It looks more like Georgia.

As we entered Quba to visit the Mosque we passed a former Mosque which was very quaint.

The new Mosque was built with the help of a Turkish group. It is traditional in colour and beautifully tranquil inside with a glorious aqua carpet. On the wall was an illuminated sign which at first glance looked like the money exchange rates but of course they were the prayer times!

Our next stop was the Genocide Memorial Complex in Guba city (Quba) constructed in 2012-2013. This memorial commemorates the massacre of many villagers in Azerbaijan by Armenians under the Bolshevik name in 1918. Later the perpetrators were lauded as heroes by the Soviet Union. The history was distorted and after independence when the real facts were revealed the monuments to those false heroes were removed from Baku and replaced by the gardens that line the coastal path. The sharp angles of the monument express the severity of the suffering. The way to the surface from underground symbolises the impossibility of hiding the truth.

This memorial was a poignant reminder of the difficulties the three countries have experienced. Much of the division was perpetuated and stoked by the Soviet Union. They moved populations to disperse their culture and enforce control. These issues are so hard for us (white Australians) to grasp. I think many First Nations Australians would understand.

This Memorial was a sombre tribute to explore. The boxes in the garden were all different shapes to indicate the ages of the people slaughtered. The trees were apple trees that are symbols of the area and hope for the future.

The actual massacre site was discovered during construction works in the area. After research in 2007 the identities of the victims were identified.

This cast a serious feeling over all of us and we all spent the trip home reflecting on the continual stress and threat with which these three countries struggle.

On the return trip to lighten the mood Anne and I challenged the bus with the Age newspaper weekend super quiz. Anne and I do this with friends every week. So it was a chance to increase our ‘brains trust’! It was a great diversion and I became the regular quiz leader on long bus trips. We discovered areas of strength amongst the group. Ray was great on military history and warfare, Monica was excellent with Geography and the rest all contributed so we managed scores in the 20s. A better result than I get on my own!

Another included dinner tonight so when we arrived back at the hotel, it was a quick freshen up and off we went to dinner.

Another salads and grilled meat meal that was so generous we felt obliged to eat. I felt like a stuffed whale and when Anne and I got back to our room I fell asleep fully clothed for a half hour or so!

Restaurants here are very generous with portions and while a lot is salads I am sure I am putting on ‘condition’! The breakfast spreads are also very savoury and diverse. Barely a cereal bowl to be seen though it is offered. I like all the salads at breakfast. I started to do that a bit before I left on this trip and I enjoy the variety. But it is so easy to fill a plate. I haven’t had toast at all though I crave it. Gluten free bread is rare.

This account is a bit of a hotch potch of impressions and information.

What an amazing surprise. I had seen the famous flame buildings in photos but had no idea the city was so modern and European looking. Also different is the stray animals are cats not dogs! There are little cat houses everywhere and the community feeds them. We have seen kittens frequently.

At night the buildings are lit up and really dramatic.

Next morning we set off for our City tour. The city is huge with electric buses and metro system as well as traffic issues on the road. Drivers seem polite and stop for pedestrians, mostly.

The city has quite a European impression apparently due to a few Polish architect during the Soviet era.

We discovered their underpasses are like museums with Marble and large photos of places in Azerbaijan. No grafitti and escalators at entrances and exits.

Azerbaijan, the nation and former Soviet republic, is bounded by the Caspian Sea and Caucasus Mountains, which span Asia and Europe. Its capital, Baku, is famed for its medieval walled Inner City. Within the Inner City lies the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, a royal retreat dating to the 15th century, and the centuries-old stone Maiden Tower, which dominates the city skyline. Azerbaijan means city of fire – related to the centuries old natural burning gas.

The esplanade around the bay is about 16 kilometres long and filled with parks and gardens and playgrounds with WIDE walking and scooter/ bike paths.

Azerbaijan is a Turkic nation and has close ties with Turkeiya

Azerbaijan is a secular, democratic country since the fall of the Soviet regime in 1991. It was the first country in the Eastern world that gave women the vote in 1919 during a brief period of independence before the Bolsheviks conquered them in 1921.

It promotes tolerance to all religions and the Russian Orthodox Church was renovated after the Soviet era by a Muslim philanthropist. In fact the government actually appoints the heads of each religious group. So not entirely democratic but perhaps it ensures no radicalism?

Originally the Zoroastrian a monotheistic religion dominated the country based around the purity of fire. However successive invasions of Islamic cultures resulted in conversions or the Zoroastrian’s going to India. The Silk Road passed through Azerbaijan and led to a mingling of cultures and trade. The fire was a pilgrimage point.

An intricate sculpture of a head was so absorbing as we walked around. It was of Aliagha Vahid, poet and Ghazai singer (1895-1965) who said he was the continuation of the great Fuzili( one of the greatest poets of Turkic literature). The tree was seen as a symbol of that continuation.

It was a bit of shock for us but we adapted.

Dinner tonight was a colourful array of delicious salads and dips followed by braised meat dishes. No desserts but tea and sweet jams or small petit fours.

John discovered that wine with dinner is not usual and though alcohol is available freely the custom is to have lemon drink or water then tea, particularly after dinner.

Last night we enjoyed a very modern take on Georgian eating. Anne and I had wandered down a side lane that seemed enticing. We first stumbled upstairs past the restaurant of a small hotel before returning to find a French style Salon. We just didn’t feel the vibe though so we left. Loved the door

We turned a corner and found what felt right. A very contemporary, cool bar restaurant a la Fitzroy Melbourne! Cocktails were delicious and food equally so!

While we felt a bit guilty not eating traditional we felt justified ( and desperate!) in wanting a change.

After Breakfast, we had a reflective meeting to feed back our experiences in Georgia to Randa and John, then Anne and I set off to explore contemporary Tbilisi.

Our first stop was to the MoMa (Museum of Modern Art) which was very doable and well presented. The old edifice faces the main street but the entrance is through a modern extension at the back.

Very interesting art, lots of inspiring drawings of faces in particular.

Wandered out the back a down the park, the lungs of the city. It is densely wooded and tiered all the way to the river. Passed market stalls and crossed the river.

Headed back to the hotel and needed to stop for a drink. We had seen this bookstore cafe earlier so we were keen to try it. Big mistake. The poor guy was solo. No help and he was run off his feet. By the time he was able to take our order he said he had sold out of smoothies!

Headed off to airport, with poor Nancy freaking out because her suitcase wasn’t with the groups. When we were all together checking suitcases the young porter had gone to take her bag and she said no so he had thought she wasn’t in the group. Miscommunication equals stress.

All was resolved quickly and we were off.

We have found Georgia visually beautiful, the city is a bit rough around the edges but modern and forward thinking and has a good lively vibe. Worth a longer visit to get to know its secret places.

Mtskheta is situated at the confluence of the Kura (Mtkvari) and Aragvi rivers. This was our destination today.

This confluence of the rivers is a key feature of the city’s geography and a significant visual and cultural element. The different colors of the two rivers are particularly striking. This can be seen from the Jvari Monastery which is perched high on the hill overlooking the town. Today it was two different brown flows merging, but apparently other times one is blue water the other brown.

Jvari Monastery didn’t open till 11.00am so we had a sleep in and leisurely start. The Georgian countryside is lush and green with the end of spring and heavily wooded in contrast to Armenia.

Arriving at Jvari it was windy and pretty crowded. This weekend is a celebration of Independence Day in Georgia so lots of locals are out and about also amongst the tourists.

The view was spectacular and we could make out the other two churches we were to visit down below in the town.

Jvari is a rare example of a 6 th Century monastery that has survived almost unchanged and built in harmony with its natural environment. Legend says St Nino erected a wooden cross on the site of a pagan temple in this location in the early 4 th Century. The cross was reported to perform miracles and therefore drew pilgrims from all over the Caucasus.

It was hard to get good photos of the interior of this unusual church. Especially as a woman kept shooing us away from the cross. Understandably as there were many people, but it was so different. The base was a circle about 1 metre high with the wooden cross planted in the middle. It was very dim so you needed your phone to capture the details and there were renovation works overhead.

This church was one of very few untouched by the Bolshevik’s and the later Soviet era. Most churches were converted to wharehouses, gymnasiums, storage for farm goods or animals, even prisons or just destroyed.

We reassembled outside for a group photo and were very amused that a Japanese fellow with a big camera was taking photos of us! He offered to take the group shot for us so that made it easy. I wondered what he would say to people who saw his pictures of us. Curious Old weirdos?

From here we went into the town below. The atmosphere was festive, patriotic and local. There was a stage for music and folk dancers and a military display of armoured cars, missile launchers etc. As well as country style games of skill for kids. The Georgians proclaim their peaceful natures but they will defend their independence if they must.

Next stop Svetitskhoveli Cathedral at the centre of the town is a masterpiece of early and high Middle Ages second in size only to The Holy Trinity( Sanabre) in Tbilisi.

It is renowned for the burial site of the claimed Christ’s Mantle worn at his death. Legend has it that Sidonia pleaded with her brother Elias a Georgian Jew. who was in Jerusalem, not to participate in the punishment of Jesus. Following the death of Christ he bought the robe from a Roman soldier and brought it to Sidonia. When she touched the sacred Robe she died instantly from the emotions she experienced. The Robe could not be removed from her hands so she was buried with it. The place where she was buried is preserved in the Cathedral. Later( before the cathedral was built!) an enormous Cedar tree grew from her grave.

Later in the 4th C St Nino ordered the tree to be cut down to build the church. The tree provided 7 columns but the seventh column had supernatural properties and rise into the sky. It returned to earth after St Nino prayed all night and the church could be built. The name of the cathedral comes from thus miracle. Sveti means pillar and tskhoveli means living or life-giving. There are many icons depicting this scene throughout Georgia. St Nino converted the King and Queen to Christianity and it became a state religion in 337AD.

By now we were hungry and found a humble place ( looked like the back garden of a home) for lunch. At my feet was a lovely black dog so it was difficult to move my chair. As I got up to make room for others I knocked a pot plant off a shelf causing the plastic pot to split and break a branch off the succulent. I was embarrassed and the old lady was not pleased. The the food was good and I made a hasty retreat. I found wine icecream to taste and headed back to the bus.

Our last stop was the Samtavro Monastery that combines the Samtavro Transfiguration Church and Nunnery of St Nino. The church is a cross in square temple of the 4th Centuryand reconstructed in the 11th Century. It houses the graves of King Mirian the lll of Iberia and the famous Georgian Monk Papa Gabriel- the last Saint, Fool for Christ and Confessor was his description. He was born in 1931 and was an activist against Lenin, arrested and tortured for his faith by the communists. Eventually released he spent the rest of his life at the nunnery of St Nino. He was believed to have powers of healing and clairvoyance. When he died there was a huge focus on him and he is venerated as the last Saint.

Saint Nino used a small church outside the large one as her resting place when she visited.

Now we are returning to Tbilisi for our last dinner here. Another huge day.