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After a three night respite from packing suitcases we hit the road again. Bill had to leave early because he had to ride back to our finishing point yesterday while we ladies were able to catch a taxi. We did take his backpack for him. It was quite busy but he made good time and we were only waiting about 10 minutes before he arrived. It was so misty this morning yet not cold. Bill had a great photo of the harbour as still as a mill pond.it felt a little odd to take off from the middle of our day’s distance but this has been the nature of this trip. The distances have been customised so the walking day is not too long, especially for Bill who has a damaged foot. It is a more relaxing walk and there is plenty of time to see the countryside and the towns.

We had all read our notes and wanted no repeat of yesterday’s confusion. We were determined to be vigilante about yellow arrows. We had a few discussions over interpreting the notes and Bill engaged the GPS app that is part of the kit, but which we have found very hard to use. Eventually we arrived in Vigo after a delightful walk. The sun was out and although cool initially it warmed up towards the afternoon.

This church of San Pedro de Matamá had unusual roof decorations. It was a Romanesque style inside.

At lunch time as we entered Vigo and came across the Parque de Castrelos. Here the notes were so ambiguous we all had different views. In the end after eating lunch and resuming the walk we determined that we had entered a main gate rather than the subsidiary gate and we were actually on track. A woman suggested we visit the castle that was at the top of the hill and as it was on the way we did. The castle Quinones de Leon itself was not open( it is Monday!) but the gardens were and they were beautiful. There were magnolia trees that had trunks like old gum trees! There were camélias that were equally as old and the size of trees. It was such a lovely uplifting garden. They are restoring its maze too. Apparently Marie Antoinette used to visit. This is a magnolia tree!

It even had exposed roots like Moreton bay fig trees. They are hard to see in the shadows.

As we left the castle we saw the yellow arrows again! We followed them for a long time along a little stream not unlike the Philosopher’s Walk in Kyoto. Once again we started to climb and we then had a decision. Follow the arrows or the GPS to the hotel. We opted for the GPS as it was closer by that route and it was warmer now.

When we arrived at our hotel after a bit of Discussion about the best way to cross the four lane road, the manager at reception kept putting the incorrect passports with Bill ‘s! Irene had to say eventually she and Bill had the matrimonial and Anne and I had the share. He just couldn’t get the passports sorted. Not very inspiring and an uninspiring Camino stamp too! When we collected our luggage Anne’s Green walks tag had fallen off and I thought she had lost it so I asked for a photocopy of mine to attach to her bag. He was very quick to do that so that was reassuring. Then when we moved Anne’s bag it had fallen on the floor underneath so we were relieved. The luggage shifting has been excellent. Always there on our arrival.

Bill has walked a lot today and scouted ahead. He has earned his big beer again.

Anne had good news from Sophie this morning. She didn’t need to have the operation to drain the cysts that have contributed to her serious illness. They seem to be draining of their own accord. It seems that very very gradually she is getting better. It is such a relief. We continue to light candles for her wherever we can.

One of the creatures I have met along the way was a very friendly donkey. He just loved having his ears scratched..

We had a budget meal tonight in a cafe because no other places were open. It was a very generous amount of tapas and not great wine. We have tasted better but the willingness of the waitress and the cheap cost compensated. Today we only spent €15 per person.

We are not in the old part of town here in Vigo so it is hard to see its charm. It seems more like a working city. It is one of the largest provincial towns in Spain that is not a Capital of a region. There was this quite arresting statue in the centre of a roundabout as we walked out for dinner. The sculpture is of five horses ascending on a waterfall driven by an intrinsic energy. The sculptor Juan Oliviera is renowned for his horse sculptures and is known as “The Lord of the horses”.

For the first time we had internet and energy to play the Age weekend quizzes after dinner. Now that is an improvement in stamina.

We were expecting a fairly cushy walk today of only 15kms but we were so wrong. The trail was well marked nearly all the way till we got to an overpass. On the way I was interested to see a few fountains that people still take water from. This one not far out of town was restored in 1593-1734 and 1993 and was still being used.We crossed a mid 13th C bridge which had a very amusing folk tale attached to it. The bridge was built with arches for pedestrians to get out of the way of carts. In the middle was a cross with the image of Saint Telmo the patron saint of sailors. On a stone table, the altar piece had three souls. Fertility rites were celebrated upon this bridge. After midnight, women who couldn’t get pregnant had to persuade the first man crossing the bridge to pour water onto their wombs and be godfather to their babies. We think they white washed that tale!

At the highway there were conflicting arrows. One path went beside a little creek and the other went over the road via a blue overpass. Anne and I took the overpass because there were more arrows pointing that way. Bill and Irene who were a bit behind us took the stream. Anne and I waited about 20 mins then rang Bill to find out where they were. Once we had made contact Anne and I decided to continue and Bill and Irene eventually caught us up. We stopped at a grassy spot for lunch and for Irene and Bill to catch their breath.

There was a beautiful brown horse in the yard opposite. Irene had left her sticks against the fence and he started to nibble them. I was chatting to him and decided to give him half my apple. He seemed to be rather excited by that. He was quite friendly and let me pat him and took the apple gently. He must stand there pretty frequently to get the attention and snacks from pilgrims.

Some signs we saw along the way on a wall.

We resumed our path and crested the hill where we found a few bars which our notes suggested would be a good place for lunch as there was nothing till the end from now on. We had no need for more sustenance so we continued up into the forest. There had been many steep inclines through semi rural areas and we all stripped off our outer layers. We made quite brisk time till the hill top forest, then it all went pear shaped. No arrows to be seen to guide us. There were three roads and the notes seemed ambiguous. Bill gallantly rode down a steep incline to see if that had arrows but he didn’t see any and returned UP again, so we took the path straight ahead that a woman had assured us was the way.

Unfortunately it wasn’t. We walked along a dirt road for what seemed like ages. We could see the town below us but no path appeared to take us down. I was tracking our distance and we were almost at our 15 km goal but not the end of the walk. Eventually we resorted to google maps and took a logging track down the hill. It was amidst a blue gum forest and the path was rough and ungraded with loose stones. Anne was anxious about her knee. Bill had to manage the bike and his sore foot and Irene was feeling really tired. As we got further down the hill my spirits lifted because the houses were getting closer and eventually we emerged onto a street at the very edge of the town. We went straight down to find our destination, the 12 th Century Church of St Salvador de Coruxo. And it wasn’t even open. Here we saw a few pilgrims again and yellow arrows.

Others had had difficulty with this stage too so we didn’t feel too bad but we had walked a couple of extra kilometres over really rough terrain. We felt very pilgrim like!

We then found a cafe where we got our well earned stamp and had drinks while we waited for the taxi to come and return us to Baiona. It will bring us back tomorrow to start the next leg from here. Poor Bill had to ride back to Baiona and will have to ride out again tomorrow because there are no vans available to transport his bike. He will have earned his Cerveca Grande( large beer). The next leg will take us on to Viga and we won’t be so blasé!

We had scheduled a rest day in this town and so after breakfast we explored the Monterreal Fort which is at the Monte Bois peninsula. It has been inhabited as a walled precinct for over 2000 years with the Celts, Phoenecians and Romans befor Christian settlement. The town was developed by royal decree from King Alfonso lX and was subject to many attacks from corsairs (pirates). There are really only the walls left of the fort but it is impressive from the land and harbour..

The tourist office had a good booklet of a few historical walks we could do in town or rather use to identify the objects we had seen already! There is a replica caravel ( ship) of the Pinta on which Pinzon and Columbus sailed to the new world and on which they returned to Spain and visited Baiona.

This event was also commemorated in a sculpture portraying the meeting of the old world and the new world and was placed on the area where an American Indian, who had returned with the explorers was buried.

Irene and Bill went off for a rest and Anne and I decided to go and put our feet in the ocean. We walked the length of the promenade to a beach where we found some unique shells and waded in the very cold water. It was lovely to wander on the sand and then over to another sculpture and little chapel.

The chapel of St. Marta had been sacked by Sir Francis Drake, described here as a pirate supported by the Queen of England, Elizabeth 1. He sailed into Baiona to capture Spanish gold and found the town unprotected, but a Spanish army was galvanised and fought back to recapture the town. In the fighting Drake burnt the church which was later rebuilt.

We met Bill and Irene in the bar and headed of for a drink and dinner. After last night’s blow out we were looking for something simpler but after strolling around we saw this gourmet gin bar that served Tapas. It was very trendy and we succumbed to the quirkiness. Anne was feeling all puffy from her cold still and didn’t want any photos so we chose to sit in what had been the fire place. She and I were somewhat concealed by the overhang of the mantle. We ordered fancy cocktails and mocktails which were quite delicious and a few tapas which were all so tasty. We ended up over budget again. Just as well we are getting our lunches free at this hotel!

That night we slept well in our new room insulated from the street and overlooking a skywell-no view. Irene said she had heard us laughing because they are above us and face towards the sea but overlook the lightwell too.

We were assured of lots of cafes on the way today so no lunch required but the toilets were a long way apart! The trouble with a coastal walk is the lack of bushes and the open nature of the walk. There were some tense times for us all. Eventually we headed into the hills and some genuine steep inclines. After all the flat walking it came as a shock. There were quite a few packs of cyclists and some found the rocky decline challenging. It was hard for Bill to push his bike up the hill and then negotiate the descent. I think we all enjoyed the change of environment but we still had glimpses of the coast. This part of the coast of Spain is called the coast of death because of its rugged rocky coast on which many ships had foundered.

We met a few new pilgrims from America and lots of Italian and Spanish cyclists whizzed by scaring me witless. They are so focused on the terrain and they don’t have anything as sissy as a bell.

It was a lovely walk through eucalypts again. They are so common here and in Portugal that it seems a bit surreal. No wonder they are suffering the forest fires that are so familiar to us.

We entered Baiona and stopped at a very old church with most unusual features. We discovered later it was Saint Liberata’s Sanctuary. It was built in 1695 and dedicated to Saint Liberata, her sisters and her nursemaid Sila. She was the first Christian woman to receive martyrdom on the cross. The high altarpiece represents scenes from her life and also an equestrian figure of the Aposttle Santiago.

We stopped for refreshments at a cafe but while the German women pilgrims were there everyone was smoking and nobody was offering service. We decided to move on and round the corner we found a fabulous cafe where the Empanada had just come from the oven and there were no smokers. We saw the Canadians from Victoria B.C. who recommended the pizzas too. It was delicious and such a nice change from our usual fare. They directed us to our hotel which was at the bottom of the street.

Anne and I were delighted with our room because it had a large bath and roomy bathroom. We both took a long soak. I have begun to get into the swing of a good soak after a walk. It is such a treat. After we had bathed and washed our clothes our pristine bathroom looked like a laundry. This place had lots of hangers too!

All spruced up we went for a wander around town. It is a pretty place on a large round bay and with the sun out and the sea sparkling it was very attractive.

We were in the quaint old part of town and eventually we settled on a restaurant that would take us for dinner at 7.30 pm. We had a lobster paella which was delicious though the local lobsters were fairly small. Bill just about catapulted his rice and lobster across the table in his attempt to get the meat out of the shell. It was a messy, delicious and expensive experience. Our budget was blown big time.

Replete, we returned tired and ready for bed. Anne was struggling still with her cold and desperate for sleep. I heard this snapping sound and when we looked into the square we could see the bar putting the chairs away. It was 10.00pm and we were delighted. Our delight was short lived. The street either side of the hotel is sprinkled with little bars and restaurants which only start at 10 pm. The revellers caroused all night till 5.30 am. We couldn’t sleep at all, even with the double glazed windows closed. At about 6 I finally drifted off to sleep, only to be woken at 8 am for breakfast. Irene and Bill had also had the same problem. This is the disadvantage of being in the old part of town!

We both decided we needed to change rooms if we were here for three nights. The guy at the hotel said initially it was a holiday and shrugged but we were not deterred and asked for a room away from the street. By the end of breakfast the reception staff had found us an internal room so we shifted straight away.

What a day! We went from dry to wet all day. Leaving the hotel we were engulfed in a downpour of such ferocity the rain was horizontal. By the time we arrived at the ferry it had passed and while waiting we met a Canadian couple from near Niagara Falls. We shared our common dislike of the cobblestones that have beset us all. I met an Irish guy, Colin later in the day and he called them the hobblestones!

The ferry crossing was uneventful despite the blustery weather. The Minho river is very wide here and there were about 28 pilgrims aboard who seemed to disperse quickly once we landed at A Guarda. It never fails to surprise me how a group of pilgrims can seem to disappear in such a short time. We have started to see some familiar faces now and some are also on the Portugal Green walks organised tours. Because everyone customises the walk we seem to stay at some of the same places or walk different distances.

We soon found a coffee stop for our first Spanish break and after Irene and Anne set off first. Bill and I were still getting organised when another deluge caught us unaware. I made a dash for cover to get my poncho on but missed the arrows. Soon I heard this high pitched whistle and it was Irene trying to get my attention before I went too far. Thanks to Kim who had given her the whistle. I rejoined them just when the lightening and hail started. We sheltered in a doorway for the worst of it to pass and set off again. We seemed to go in a complete circle but it gave Anne and I time to find a church for our candle lighting ritual. More rain then blazing sunshine. After very clear markings we lost the arrows but continued towards the beach. As we emerged from our street we saw a whole posse of pilgrims stream past. We wondered what route they had taken because we haven’t seen any for at least 15 minutes. These were in fact a new group we think started in A Guarda, perhaps a parish pilgrimage. They were of all ages and in high spirits and crowded the path. Anne and I took to the road to pass them but the group engulfed Irene and in her attempt to get out of the group she slipped on wet boardwalk and tumbled down, grazing her arm. We all eventually overtook them and looking back they seemed like a group of zombies after us!

From A Guarda we were on rugged, rocky coastline buffeted by showers, hail and intermittent sunshine. It was quite invigorating but we eventually started to feel cold. In our haste to bypass the Zombies we forgot to stock up on lunch and were contemplating a day of sesame snacks and mixed nuts! We were flagging when we happened on a pop up cafe. An enterprising young lad had converted a container to a shop and added a dome tent for seating and shelter. He offered tortillas, bocadillas, cakes and coffee. It was like an oasis( but no toilet). He sold us lunch with a minimum of words and us pointing to what we wanted. Three? All? €12. He had a captive market and when it was quiet he watched TV or played video games. Soon other pilgrims streamed in and the tent was crowded.

We arrived soon after at Oia. We had met Colin the Irish guy from Donegal who was walking in shorts and sandals and I had enjoyed talking about his walks in England. He was continuing on to Mougás so we wished him Buen Camino and parted ways. We went in search of our hotel and just as we found it we were drenched by another burst of rain.

The private monastery of Santa Maria la Real is a 12 Century Romanesque origins are behind a Baroque facade from the 18 th Centipury.

Oia is only tiny and very exposed to ocean breezes. The wind was blowing so hard you could hear the whistle and howl around the windows of the hotel. Our host at the hotel Raiña was deaf. He used the phone to communicate with us quite efficiently. By the time we got settled we were all cold. Fortunately we had good heating and managed to dry everything overnight. We had a pilgrim menu because we couldn’t bear to go out in the weather again. The waitress was also deaf and with hand signals and lip reading we all managed to get what we wanted for dinner. It was a simple but tasty meal though the wine was a bit fizzy!

We were all happy to go to bed!

Another wet and blustery start but an invigorating walk along the coast with pounding surf. I had heard it during the night but had no idea we were only a block back from the esplanade. Before we set off Bill and Irene went to charge their phones while Anne and I visited the church. The ladies cleaning the church drew our attention to the glass cupboard with a statue of St James and so we were able to get a stamp for our Pilgrim Passport. We lit candles for Sophie, Anne’s daughter and our families. They wished us well and bade us Buen voyage with such warmth.

We also ventured into a jewellery store where the traditional Portuguese filigree jewellery was displayed. I haven’t bought any souvenirs in Portugal so I bought a small pair of traditional heart of Viana earrings. Irene bought a modern pair and Anne bought a pair too. The jeweller was having a good morning! He was also happy to talk to us.

Irene said the young woman who served them at the phone shop was doing the Camino 1 day a month and was so excited to talk to them about it. All up we didn’t leave town till nearly 10 am. We were having a short day though and before we knew it we were in the next town. The cooler weather was easier to walk in and we we are getting stronger. Anne was not so good because she seems to have developed a sinus infection and found today tough. I had added nothing to my boots today and my feet felt fine. No cobblestones and a short day, perfect. Caminha was an important fortress town for the Celts and the Romans. It sits near the mouth of the Minho River. It was a major port until Viana de Castelo was developed as a port. In the 16 th C. Today it is just a small fishing village with a ferry to Spain.

TheTorre do Relogio clock tower dates from the 13th century and was once a gateway to the medieval defensive walls of the city.

We need to catch a ferry across to Spain from here and it only goes twice in the mornings, 9 and 10 am. Hence our very short day. We wandered around town to find a lunch place and until we could check in at 2.30. The weather had turned cold and foul so we were grateful to get into our rooms. This hotel is called the Design and Wine. It is very modern with rooms having musical themed names. Anne and I are in the classic room which has a Mozart digital type print on the glass bathroom wall and musical notes on the wall. It is another hotel where there is no privacy on the toilet. The shower at least has frosted glass but the toilet stands exposed in all its glory. It also has this fancy shower I couldn’t quite work out. It sprays from the wall and the roof too! I couldn’t work out exactly what all the knobs did but I managed to shower and wash my clothes anyway.

I showered first and washed my clothes while Anne took to her bed. She had got some other Sudafed type drug this morning from the pharmacy to help the sinus but felt completely washed out.

The weather outside was like winter so we decided to stay in and eat at our hotel. Everything is very quiet. We opted for a paella tonight and it was delicious. Anne and I followed with a taste of Portuguese which was a Swiss roll filled with marmelade paste( think quince paste like) and cheese and grapes. It seemed odd but the cheese complemented the cake and the grapes were refreshing. All through the meal there was lightening and thunder. We hoped it would be gone in the morning.Tomorrow is a public holiday for Liberation day. We are sorry we will miss the celebrations because we cross into Spain.

We set off in the wet today which is always a bit miserable. The Way was well marked and we soon left the suburbs behind and entered some coastal villages. We were actually travelling in the hills behind the towns and so there were few cafes. Fortunately there was bush for a couple of comfort stops! We walked through lots of Gum trees today and we felt like we could be in Sherbrooke forest again. The path was more varied with muddy patches, rocky tracks and our nemesis the cobblestones. Lots of winding lanes and mossy walls. We could see glimpses of the sea at times and even hear the surf. It was a pretty walk.

By the time we found the second cafe we were wet and cold and so was every other pilgrim! It was a hole in the wall place and jammed with pilgrims having coffees and hot chocolates, standing room only. A couple of locals popped in and watched us and then were served their port or wine at 11.30. There was a great atmosphere. Suitably refuelled we walked on and when the sun came out we decided to take the opportunity and perched on the base of a monument to have our lunch of cheese bread and ham.

Irene was in need of a toilet and a gentleman was walking past and started to speak to us. We had a lot of difficulty understanding him but Irene used her Spanish to ask where some toilets might be. This he understood and offered to take her to his home just a couple of houses away. She was very relieved and grateful. Apparently his wife was there too and they were offering her food and beverages. She reluctantly declined explaining that we had lunch. She was so touched by their generosity. Irene has had some very moving experiences and I think that is Camino magic.

Bill had a tough day with the bike. Lots of stairs, and rough rocky tracks. He stopped to talk to a woman who was going the opposite way. She was walking back from Santiago the coastal way after walking to Santiago the inland route! She said she loved walking and had completed 15 Caminos. She warned Bill the next stage would be hard with the bike and she was correct!

I saw the old wash house which was full of tubs with fresh running water. Very communal but cold in winter!

There were no shelters or seats even until we were almost at the end. Despite that disadvantage we made good time and enjoyed the walk.

We came across some interesting objects in a garden. They were all painted red and many were farm implements or pots or any paraphernalia, painted red. It was a quite amusing collection.

At our hotel in Âncora we were all thrilled to find we had a bath. What heaven to soak in a hot bath then have a shower. Ahhh! Fully refreshed we lounged in our rooms till happy hour where we discovered a barman, Andre, who had a bald head, lush beard and a fun personality. Irene has gone alcohol free again So she had two mock tails but Anne and I wanted something hot. So he made us a hot brandy toddy. It was delicious and warmed us up without knocking us out.

We decided to eat a pilgrims meal tonight. And for €16 each we got Vegetable Soup, Veal stew and mash( yum) followed by lime mousse and it included a glass of wine and a coffee. It was a very tasty meal. It has been a great day.

We had a rest day. We all seemed to be so tired and I think apart from the actual physical walking, we are all finally slowing down. Each of us had been furiously busy leading up to the trip and then we caught colds plus also our concerns over Anne’s seriously ill daughter and our various families. Walking gives your mind rest even if your feet are feeling the kilometres!

It was a public holiday here today so the town was quiet and not too many restaurants or cafes were offering meals. A fast day wouldn’t go astray as we have been eating wonderful food for the most part and enjoying Sangrias and good wine as well as port. It is years since I had port( probably when I was in my twenties and we used to play cards after dinner for cheap entertainment.) I have discovered white port, chilled as an aperitif , or room temperature afterwards. It is not uncommon for a restaurant to offer you shots of port after a meal-gratis. Very pleasing.

The museums were all closed because it was Monday so we had only the Templo do Sagrado Coração de Jesus atop the Monte Santa Luzia, the hill situated behind Viana do Castelo, to explore. It was an amazing structure modelled on Sacré Coeur in Paris. Fortunately we could take a funicular up which our feet much appreciated. It is a beautiful building that we thought resembled the Taj Mahal from a distance when the sun was shining onto it. It has elaborate carvings but is quite modern inside and relatively plain and unadorned. They have built an elevator so you can go up 30 metres but then you need to climb the most narrow winding staircase to reach a viewing area above the dome. The staircase has traffic lights! Something that would have been useful in the tower in Porto. The view was an amazing 360 degrees but obscured by cloudy mist. You could see up the estuary of the Lima river, down to the sea, across the market gardens to the north, and around to the hills surrounding the city. They also have a prayer and reconciliation room behind the church that emanated peace and tranquility.

There was an Albergue up there for backpackers/pilgrims too. Not a great thought after a long days walking to face that hill. Overlooking the church is a beautiful hotel in the grounds of which are the remains of a Celtic/Iberian settlement dating from the 4thC BC. We took the longest way round to find that it was closed, because it was Monday! Eventually we returned to the hotel to collect rain jackets as the temperature started to drop and rain was forecast. We struggled to find lunch anywhere but in our search we gained a good sense of the historical centre. It is very charming.

We are very aware of the low key nature of advertising here. There doesn’t seem to be the push of posted advertisements or neon signs that we suffer at home. It makes for a much calmer environment.

After trying a few restaurants and cafes without success we found a place that did toasted sandwiches. The place was bursting at the seams but the waiter was so good natured and a great salesperson. He quickly explained what was left on the menu and guided us to a decision! I love that they bake so much and when it’s gone, it’s gone; you have to chose something else. Fewer choices is so less stressful. Our toasted sandwiches came promptly and when Anne’s was missing the cheese they just took it and returned with the correct order. No discussion or apology but swift gracious correction. Same thing last night when Irene’s vegetables didn’t come with her dinner. People are polite and pleasant. When it came to cakes the same waiter just told us what was left and sold us two types cut into four to share. He gauged us well!

With everything closed we returned to the hotel and rested. Bill found a laundromat and went off to wash. We had done all ours the night we arrived so we were up to date. The rain settled in as forecast and we enjoyed a quiet afternoon reading and writing and sleeping.

We had booked dinner at a Café at which we couldn’t get a table at lunch time because it was so busy. The Cafe Sport. It had all the Portuguese football heroes jumpers and other paraphernalia. The only female waitress said it was her husband’s passion and she was over football! We laughed and sympathised. Poor Bill has a very poor audience for his football discussions! We had to kill some time and as it was raining we continued past the restaurant and stumbled on a little art gallery. The theme of the art was the liberation of Portugal from dictatorship. The 25 th of April is liberation day and the carnation is a symbol of the day. The gallery assistant was very happy to show us around and wanted to show us the art of the local children who had produced pieces too. It is a very joyous day. We felt quite privileged.

We went back to the restaurant and were the first customers. The staff were so full of fun and keen to please. We had the most delicious roast lamb but it was ribs and back bone or neck not a leg. The meat fell off the bone and was so sweet. I had my first white sangria. Definitely will be making that at home.

We had a late start yesterday because breakfast wasn’t available till 9.00am. It was a treat to be able to sleep in but of course we didn’t. Habits are hard to break. Still waking at 6.30 gave me time to write and post the blog etc. I also had time to wander around the grounds too. Weird that I had to let myself out to do that and lock the door again when I returned! Our sumptuous breakfast was served in a pavilion apart from the main house. There were only two other couples staying.

Irene had organised a taxi to take us back to where we had left the Way but when she told him to take us back ‘to the church’ he took us to another church on the hill top. Bill meanwhile had taken off to the original starting point. Note to self: be sure you know which church because there are many even in small towns! We rang Bill and he followed the arrows UP hill to us.

The church of St. Tiago of de Castelo do Neiva had been on the way for centuries and during renovations the inscription commemorating its consécration in 862 was discovered. It is the oldest evidence of devotion to Saint James outside of Spain. In the renovation they built a shrine right across half of the plaque!

While we waited we visited the graveyard adjoining the church. All the graveyards we have seen are well cared for and tiled of course-no mowing. They literally sparkle with care and fresh flowers. From the hill top we could see to the beach we had left yesterday. Once Bill joined us we set off again into the forest up hill then down to another chapel. They had a toilet block with a cross on it but it was locked much to our disappointment. We met several young backpackers who had stayed at the Albergue Miguel the previous night and who accepted our challenge to walk up the 861 steps to a chapel/monastery on the hill before us. We had seen several chapels on the surrounding hills as we walked.

We pressed on and the day grew very warm. We were eager for a stop to refresh. It was much more undulating terrain with patches of green between villages which seem quite prosperous as the houses are all pristinely painted with immaculate gardens. The flowers are gorgeous so the ground is fertile. We have hardly seen any animal husbandry at all along this Way but lots of industrial estates.

The next town had another Church dedicated to St James beautifully decked with flowers for Easter Monday. While we walked we heard fireworks going off and remnants of flowers at driveways. Apparently on Easter Sunday in the villages the priest visits the houses of the faithful to bless them. It went in all day and we saw the flashes of explosions in the hills while we had dinner in Viana that night. This sculpture in dedication to the liberation from dictatorship was so impressive.

We are all really tired and footsore( except for Bill). we are still afflicted with colds to varying degrees and obviously not as fit as we would like to be. Bill has had a tough time with the bike on the tracks too. We were glad to reach Viana do Castelo a very pretty city on the Lima river. Our hotel is right on the Way this time. Though it is not so flash it is comfortable. The clear glass wall to the shower and toilet is a bit novel. We have a door to a patio on which we found a fellow pilgrim in towel only, sunning herself. Like us she had done her washing. She really is travelling light.

The bridge we crossed which was narrow for pedestrians and windy is another Gustav Eiffel building.

We had a later breakfast at the hotel and set off with instructions from the hotel staff that perhaps we misunderstood because we did not see any yellow arrows or shells. We chose to follow the seaside anyway which took us through some very attractive modern villas with lovely gardens and ended up at Ofir a place on the beach. We stopped for morning tea. As we were leaving a group of youngsters arrived for a surfing lesson!They were all togging up in wetsuits.

From here we then rejoined the Way at Fáo where we crossed the river to the next town which was Esponsende.. We stopped at a market here and bought rolls and prosciutto and tomatoes for a picnic lunch. It felt like we could be at Tweed Heads or Barwon heads except for the language! The walking on cobblestones and hard surfaces was paying havoc with our feet though and we were looking for a place to picnic.

We opted for the beach and found a wooden platform on which we could perch and eat our rolls looking out to sea. It was heavenly taking our boots off and letting our feet breathe. I decided that my boots were too tight so I loosened them from toe to ankle. What an improvement. I hadn’t adjusted them for the warm weather. My feet just seem to be spreading. I will have flippers by the time I finish.

From here it was just villages non stop and hard cobblestones. This is a very urban Camino so far. We could see glimpses of the sea but we were no longer beside it and there were no breaks between villages at all.

Eventually we took to a dirt road which led into a forest. This was more my usual Camino terrain. The funny thing was it was a eucalyptus forest and we felt like we were in Sherbrooke forest at home. Beside the path was a river and small waterfalls which just lifted our spirits because we were out of the urban jungle!

We came to a monument to the Camino which had rocks and papers and items left by pilgrims. Anne placed a rock and I stepped back into the road to find a suitable rock too. I saw a rather lovely oval one half buried in the dirt. I picked it up and dusted it off then turned it over to do the same to the other side. Imagine my surprise when I saw written onto the side” In it together 8/5/2018 Australia!” The universe had spoken clearly.

We continued along the track which was rocky and therefore quite hard for Bill with the bike. We finally arrived at a quaint White House right beside the river and crossed a stone bridge. In the shallows of the river was a brown dog swimming and playing. He was so joyful.

We were then faced with a stiff climb up a hill to Castelo de Neiva. At the top we were all pretty tired and were most disappointed when we realised we would have to walk a lot further to our Hotel. Quinta do Monteverde is a boutique hotel and after arriving all hot and sweaty we felt most out of place.

The receptionist Carla seemed unfazed but after we registered she insisted on trying to carry Bill’s case up the stairs. She struggled but insisted till Bill took it from her. We are the only people in this wing! She then showed us around the place. It would be lovely to stay for more than one night. They do breakfast at 9.00 am! No early starts when you stay at these places! We had to ring the bell for them to open the gates when we arrived!

It has an honour system for the bar because there are no staff on the premises half the time which is quaint and then in our room Anne and I spied two little port bottles and tea making facilities. We promptly opened the port. Today due to our diversion and the hotel not being on the Way we have walked 23.3kms. Irene has ordered a taxi to take us back to the starting point of The Way in this town tomorrow morning!

Carla suggested a place for dinner that was close by. Just a left turn and another left turn, 5 minutes. Hmm! After refreshing with showers, she was quite surprised to see us spruced up and looking quite decent. We set off but in the end resorted to google maps to find the place. What a find. The small restaurant O Tasco Regional Restaurant was filled to brimming soon after we arrived. We settled on Tapas for a change and everything was delicious. We asked for vegetables and we got our favourites, padrones but also snow peas. We had octopus and again it was so tender with a type of salsa. Scrumptious. Irene had a white sangria which was the best she has ever tasted and I had a taste and agreed. We had pork, mussels, cold savoury morsels as well and the best cod cakes yet. It really was a fabulous meal. So many of these Portuguese restaurants are quite tiny (about 20 people) but they fill up and turn over tables yet you never feel any pressure to move. Very easy going and good quality food. It cost us €70 including dessert, tips and drinks ( a bottle of Rose, two beers and two white sangrias).