fleetfootkath

Last night was funny because our pilgrim from La Chamba turned up in just as bad a condition such that she seemed to be able to barely walk, yet she had completed 25 kms. We were surprised to see her and greeted her so warmly that Monsieur Jolly (real name!) thought she was our best friend and took her into our Petite Gîte, instead of the Grand Gîte. Karen felt so sorry for her that she offered up her lower bunk.

The parish Gîte.

We all shared a meal together, Cup of soup, bread and French cheese, peanuts, the pilgrims tinned mackerel and chocolate! How is that for a French meal? Another pilgrim had also arrived with his dog and a barrow. I got talking to him while I washed our coffee cups. He was a social worker who had been made redundant and had decided to walk from Strasbourg to Santiago with his dog to think about his next path. He has dreadlocks and a big plug in his ear but is the nicest kindest person. His name was Robin. We had a great discussion about the choices life offers and about Australia. Lots of French people want to go to New Zealand but they don’t know much about Australia. He was also concerned about Corinne (the pilgrim) and offered her medical help. He only walks as far as his dog wants to go. Then he stops. Anyway we all toddled off to bed and Corrine settled in and snored! She is a big girl, and will lose a lot of weight on this trip. We can’t fault her determination but we all felt concerned about her ability to walk. She could barely put her foot down.

Next morning we woke very early in order to get to our next town. Karen had not slept well due to Corinne’s snoring, I had only noticed it occasionally through the night. Corrine had told us Tuesday was also a holiday for Victory in Europe day as well as Thursday (Ascension Day). Our hopes of finding two coffee stops on the way were dashed!

We set off with rolling thunder on our heels all the way. Our first stop was an historic village of Montarcher where we were able to see a panoramic view of the Alps and mountains we were going to cross.

As we walked the thunder rolled ever closer, but we arrived in Estivareilles and joy of joys we found a boulangerie that sold not only coffee but some groceries. Our maxim of a ‘bird in the hand’ has proved useful because we thought we may not get any dinner due to the holiday. I carried the can of lentils, Karen the pasta, and Andy the can of ratatouille. This town had a memorial to the men who had died in the resistance. We have seen lots of wreaths laid at memorials but this is the first we have seen to the fighters in the resistance.

While having our coffee at the boulangerie it started to hail and rain. The woman was so sympathetic and good natured we waited till the worst had passed and we were kitted out.

This is Peter in all his glory looking like a post box or the hunchback of Notre Dame! Soon after we left and the rain abated such that we then stopped to remover rain gear. A passer by stopped to chat with us and then a farmer appeared at the farm across the road. He backed his tractor into the driveway, jumped out and opened the barn to let out the cows. They then followed the farmer, now back in his tractor, down the road. One farm dog bringing up the rear. We could here some mooing still and sure enough a lone cow appeared out the door of the barn. We joked she had been doing her nails or texting! But a little three legged black farm dog rushed up and barked and barked at her so she returned to the barn!

We followed the cows until they seemed to disappear but when we went over the hill I could see them in a paddock behind the forest. Later we saw more cows with rather ugly spiky rings in their noses. Apparently it stops them biting each other! They look like punks to me. Cows are so curious they follow us all the time.

It was a great walk through the forest and valleys till we arrived in Valprivas where we stayed in the community Gîte. It was a very modern building but as we were the only people there it felt a bit weird. We were reassured that if Corinne turned up she would be in her own space but she never did appear.

The bar was open here and the owner had budgies who were singing and twittering. The phone and internet coverage in these towns is pretty poor and even the bar didn’t have wifi so I have had to stock pile my posts.

Today was fantastic. We had a steep rough track out of town and then we levelled out into forest. The air was filled with the aroma of pine and then we reached the pass of the dead man. A rather ominous name.

we saw an old lady working her garden. She asked us if we were having a promenade!

We were not far from Ferréol and pushed on. What joy! This little hamlet was so neat and many of the homes are renovated but best of all there was an open restaurant!! Look at this wood pile and the window dressings which are so typical

We decided to lunch there and it was a find. I had my first frogs legs. They were the Plat de Jour, with fruit salad or cheese to follow.They were like chicken wings and similar flavour. Lots of bone like quail. The boys had a fondue and Karen had an omelette with potato galette. We were all delighted with the experience. The potato galette was, as they say in the cooking shows, the hero of the dish!

It wasn’t much further then to our Gîte in Chapelle. I was fascinated by the density of dandelions. They just cover the paddocks almost like they are cultivated.

This time we really are on the Chemin St Jacque and tonight we have met our pilgrim from the other night and a young guy from Strasbourg with a dog.

We have seen lots of signs for the Camino today and it seems like they must have a few who have got lost.

Today I photographed all the crosses I came across. One statue near the restaurant was of the Madonna and had the engraving ‘ protector of travellers’.

On arrival at Chappell we could hear singing and talking upstairs but not see anyone and it was quite strange. It put us in mind of the crazy hosteleria, Pablo, in the movie The Way.

We were sad to leave Gîte Gentians. Their hospitality was so wonderful. Dinner last night was delicious and this morning I had a fresh cheese (like a ricotta) as part of breakfast. It was so tasty and the owner said very easy to make so that I think I will try to make it at home sometime.

It was a beautiful walk down the mountain to St Anthème. The views were so picturesque, lots of wild cherry trees with white blossoms dotted across the landscape and contrasting with the variety of green trees and fields. Many of the fields are just full of dandelions too so there is this bright golden yellow to contrast.

On the way down the road we saw a dead snake, the third we have seen so far. I guess they are starting to appear.

We arrived in St Anthème and found Andy at the only open bar. He had left early in order to get into town to do some provision shopping before the shops close at 12:30pm. The shops are often closed Monday too. The Sunday market was shutting down. They have been a feature of many villages we have been through but they are very small.

Peter is feeling much better and even took his tent back from Karen today. He was up to buying ice creams. He always loves ice creams. We were amused by the logo on the backs of some of the other patrons at the bar. There was a group of motorbike riders called the Monty Pistons! The bar was the centre for all the motorbike riders passing by. All sorts of fancy bikes and mostly “mature” riders.

Tonight’s abode is up a little lane and has eased my curiosity about the inside of these village houses. Kitchen and living downstairs and bedrooms upstairs. You can lean out your kitchen window to talk to people in the street!

This was an unusual cross outside the town. Many hamlets have an iron cross of some sort at the cross roads or in a central square. They are usually of intricate ironwork but this one is different.

Today has been a lazy day with a short walk and we are enjoying the break. We have all had our trials and the walking has been more challenging than expected for a range of reasons but we are stronger and the country is very rewarding, the company good and we feel a sense of satisfaction with how far we have come.

I have seen a wild and empty part of France that was very unexpected.

Today’s walking was delightful. We walked into alpine territory reaching 1542 m. We covered a range of terrains from forest, to Nordic ski runs, alpine meadows and heathers. The biggest delight was the acres of wild daffodils. They were above the snow line and just covered hectares in single flowers. We were enchanted. I carried daffodils as my wedding bouquet so I felt it was very special.

The climbing was well graded so no major grunts except after lunch. By that stage I was tired and hungry because we had only one pastry each and a bit of apple for breakfast. Just when I was about to eat my elbow the cafe at Col des Beal (a pass) appeared. I had been very sceptical because the first pass we came to, the place wasn’t open yet. I had face timed Jonathan and Ziggy while we were there but it was really cold and the mists were coming in. I could barely believe there would be an open cafe after our usual experiences.

Lunch was very satisfying with pasta, sausage and salad and coffee! Peter was feeling tired and Karen tried to get him a lift but to no avail so he needed to keep walking. They took the road and Andy and I took the GR3 up the mountain. Looking at it I felt tired but it wasn’t as bad as it had seemed. In fact all the hills were pretty easy though at first glance they seemed intimidating. We walked, and walked and for the first time we actually met people. A walker, some mountain bikers, some horse riders with a pack animal as well, a dune buggy type of car, a Nordic skier in training. Later we passed a family where the mother was passed out on the grass, the dad was looking bushed and the kids full of energy. We did have a concern for them as it was quite late in the day. It was a busy day on the mountain and as the day wore on we had several stops with packs off and lying on the grass. We were all beginning to think where is this next Gîte? The path was flat now but seemed to go on for ever. I saw another hill and thought, ‘ I can’t walk any further, I will pitch the tent here!” But of course the Gîte was just there off the road and it is wonderful. Very modern, friendly owners and great food. And a bar! We treated ourselves to beers and fancy tonics. It was a gorgeous walk but we were done. The woman from last night just walked to the first pass and stayed. Wise woman.

We set off early to the Boulangerie to get provisions for tonight as we are staying in my first Gîte etape( like a Refugio/ Albergue) at La Chamba. There is no town and the Gîte is on the way of the Randonnée ( hiking route) and also the Chemin Saint Jacque(Camino). The walk is really pretty through lovely farms and forests, but it is all uphill. On the roadside I was delighted to see a puddle full of tadpoles! Frogs are very present in France and the area we are walking in is very environmentally conscious. The constant up hill started to take its toll on Peter and after a while he was falling behind and we were getting anxious about him. Eventually with about 7 kms to go Karen was able to flag a car down and ask for help. The wonderful young woman turned around and drove about five minutes back picked him up and then stopped again to ask where he needed to be dropped off, and would we like to give us our packs? We told her La Chamba at the church and then we were too proud to give up our packs. Silly girls. It turned into a steady going up hill and then the last three kilometres seemed endless though Peter came out to meet us and had paid for the Gîte etc.

This is the Gîte near the church and the kitchen.

We were so glad to get there and then discovered that the showers were basic and really there was no room to put your clothes and every part of the floor got wet as well. I didn’t want to wash my clothes so I had nothing to stand on! But being clean is wonderful and the water is hot! So really no complaints.

We ate our gourmet meal of instant soup and Uncle Bens microwave rice with Champignons, to which we added peanuts! It was pretty tasty and the peanuts made the dish and lightened my load for the next day.

This town La Chamba is an Etoilé town. They turn off all public lighting at 11 pm so the stars can be seen. Unfortunately the skies were cloudy so no stargazing for us. Instead we played cards.

I was extremely successful at losing! It was good fun. The next morning as we were having breakfast I went to get something from the bedroom and met an extremely tired walker who was staggering down the stairs to the kitchen. She was very distressed and it turned out she had got lost in the forest on the way from Chabreloche and had not arrived till nearly 9.00 pm. She was very sore and burst into tears telling us. We gave her a hug and then rushed to find medication and strapping for her leg. It transpires she is walking the Chemin St Jacque and had started in Paris. It seemed to settle her to be able to tell of her ordeal. I think she is very courageous to do this walk on her own. What we have done is very strenuous and the last few days quite challenging so doing it on her own is very brave.

It seems that a post I thought had been published failed. That is why the dates are out of sequence.

We are staying at a gite here at Chabreloche. The weather is freezing but the gite is warm with good wifi. Peter is feeling better after a couple of good meals and a rest day again. He won all the card games tonight!

Today felt weird at first because Peter and Andy set off to walk to Gimouille, about 8 kms out of Nevers where Karen and I would be waiting with our trusty black Nissan Micra. Gimouille is on the canal but no bar or cafe so we met the guys at the church, a simple 15th century Romanesque style.

We have hired the car to assist us between Nevers and Vichy due to the distances. I wanted to rest my leg another day and Karen is just starting to feel rested. A 30 km day was not an option. It gave us the chance to visit one of the prettiest towns in France, Apremont-sur-Allier. We are now travelling alongside the Allier river which is similar to and a tributary of the Loire.

Apremont was beautiful (perhaps in the Cotswolds style) situated on the Allier River with manicured gardens and a spectacular Floral Park, chateau and carriage, bicycle museum. The little cafe overlooked the river, the chickens pecked around our feet, the sun was out. All was right with the world.

This is on the pilgrimage route( nearly every place is it seems!) the 15 th Century village was once home to stonemasons but once the Chateau was bought by Eugène Schneider heir to the Le Creusot dynasty in the 1890s, the village was restored and embellished to be in perfect harmony with the Chateau and the estate. His great grandson was an inspired landscaper and created this magnificent, floral park. We spent ages strolling amongst the flowers and lawns. It has three follies in the vein of the 18 th Century gardens, a Turkish Pavillion, a Chinese bridge and a Belvedere. The house situated amongst the gardens are so picturesque. And no tourists and in fact not very commercial at all. There are adventure canoe activities but that was the only obvious commerce. Just good taste and harmony.

After checking out the ramparts of the castle we took to our black steed and drive through the town we would have stayed in if we were walking and onto our next place- a spa town.

It was a really cold night and by 4am I was looking for my thermals! Peter has not come with enough warm clothes and was freezing last night. He was taken ill and by morning was not up to walking uphill for 23 kms. After discussing the options I volunteered to stay with him ( Pete’s French is even worse than mine plus he needs company) and I will arrange some sort of transport to the next village where we are booked into a Gîte. My bad French plus google translate are being utilised to find a lift or bus or taxi. Karen and Andy are walking on and will meet us in Chabreloche. After a freezing hour and a half in the town square speaking to people, a taxi finally appeared. Peter was so cold the taxi was the best option even if somewhat pricey. The warmth was so welcome and we had an interesting discussion with the driver. He was very friendly and we had a halting conversation about these country towns. The work is mainly sawmilling timber and the traditional agriculture is diminished. The young people are going to the larger cities, the local uranium mine which was mined for medical purposes is closed so work is limited. It is the same the world over.

We passed Andy and Karen on the road and they texted to tell us the next town had an Auberge that was open and they were having coffee and tissane!

The taxi dropped us at a cafe where we have set up a base. The owner is very generous and has let us charge the phones.

We have had a lovely walk out of Vichy into the hills. Looking back we were surprised how high we were. The path took us into many beautiful forests and past picturesque farms and hamlets. No coffee or lunch anywhere though! We had anticipated this so we had a pile of provisions to keep us going.

Before we left Vichy we divested ourselves of some extra gear and left it with Karen’s Mum. It made the packs lighter but then we stocked up with food!

We wound past lots of Charolet cattle who are so curious they follow us in their paddocks along the road. They come right up to the fence to look at us. There were lots of horses too. This is really starting to get into the country and soon we were deep in forest and beside bubbling streams.

As always the last few kms are tough especially up hill but eventually we arrived in Ferriers. The camp site has just opened but the showers were not open and only one toilet. I felt so yucky I got changed in the toilet and then went around to the laundry tubs and had a bird bath wash, I felt better and we just rested in our tents for awhile. Peter was really doing it hard today but revived after a sleep. We had thought to stay in the Auberge but they only had one room for $80, they weren’t open and we had to go back at 6. When we arrived hoping for a meal the owner was aghast that we had not booked for dinner and refused to give us a meal. As luck would have it a mobile pizza van was parked up the road so we rushed up there to grab a pizza. The young girls said they wouldn’t be ready till 9.00 pm because they had so many orders, but when we said we were camping she took pity on us and cooked us two pizzas right then. We took them back to the Auberge where we had bought drinks while waiting for the pizza to cook. The owner came out and said we couldn’t eat them there! We finished our drinks and then we walked down by the river and ate them at a picnic bench. Old stuffy France versus young vibrant France. The girls are the future and the guy is the past. It is a small town but on a major road and a friendlier person would have had our business. We were not impressed. The camp ground is very pretty and the amenities are good. I only hope he is friendlier in summer. We think he wouldn’t have given us a room either.

In the way into town we passed a riding school and these young riders had just finished their lessons. Bluebells growing wild amongst the other wild flowers.

Early to bed because it is cooling down quickly. No internet either.

We had a pleasant drive to Vichy spotting a heard of Bison no less and several chateaux and grand houses. The farms are larger here and seem more mechanised. Herds of creamy Charolet are the beef cattle of choice though the herds are hardly more than 30. It is calfing season and there are lots of Plat de Jours (plate of the day) offering calf heads!

I have tried the charolet steaks twice now and while I find them tender they don’t seem to have much flavour.

Getting rid of the car to Avis was a tedious ordeal. The car needed to be left in the station car park; after taking a parking ticket you leave the keys with the station information desk. None of that was clearly explained and we left it twice before finally getting the correct information. We were quite cross with the Avis rep but when we passed the office and saw him inside we decided to check with him. He was so pleasant we lost our ill humour. Still the explanation needed to be clearer.

Our AirBnB is really charming and well situated though we were disconcerted to discover our hosts were living here with us.

We stumbled on the most unusual and beautiful Art Deco church. We were all blown away by its stained glass and the decorative touches.

The river Allier which runs through Vichy has beautiful parks and sports areas along its banks. It also has a beach and beach boxes. There were several slippery dips from the higher level of the park. I had a go and it was so fast I landed in a patch of wet playground.

We returned to our house for a home cooked meal after booking a massage at the Spa for Tuesday afternoon. We are meeting Karen’s mother Sue and her two French friends Denise and Nicole for lunch.

They are the loveliest of women. So very friendly and asking us to come and visit. It was a wonderful day topped off by us showing them the Art Deco Church! They admitted they know the Vichy ships best! I showed them where u bought my swimsuit for the spa and they agreed it was a good choice but expensive. The spa was too upmarket for me to go in my underwear!Then it was off to the spa for which Vichy is famous.

Because it is May 1st, a very serious public holiday hardly anything is open.

There are flower sellers everywhere selling Lilly if the valley which are always sold in the 1st if Mat and symbolise a happy home for the year ahead.

After the spa we looked for a place to dine having exhausted our provisions the day before. I was starving and couldn’t believe nothing was open. Eventually with the help of the internet we found an Indian restaurant 19 minutes walk away. Disaster averted!