fleetfootkath

When we were in Montmarch we saw an explanation about the crosses in all the towns and cross roads. Some are to commemorate people who died in epidemics, wars, in place of churches to show they are blessed villages, to show the way, and the limit of a parish or area.

After a cold, restless night in the tent, (I needed to put on my fleece and socks and had been sliding down hill all night), I was awake early and packed up quickly. It was still cold so we found a tabac that was open and had our essential hot coffee and hot chocolates. Thawed out we set off eagerly. We followed the GR3 again but ever wary to deviate if it got overgrown again. This is the major Rondonnée route in France but it is also one of the toughest. Many of the tracks haven’t been walked or maintained for ages. Today was like a bridal path, soft underfoot, wide and well used. The walking was delightful with fields and horse paddocks and the mountain ranges on the horizon. How is this for a pigeon/bird roosting solution?The term Puy is supposed to be for domes of old volcanos. We made good time and hit a village sooner than expected but opted to picnic by the river so we can dry our tents in the sun.

I had a catnap after our lunch of bread and cheese, chocolate and fruit. Tents dried we packed up and started the climb to the panoramic view. We passed a chateau on the water that must have had a waterwheel to generate electricity or for milling perhaps. The Loire runs fast all the time so you can imagine them using its force. It appeared renovations were underway if the noises emanating from the building were any indication.

Up we trekked, up, up on a rough but well graded path till we emerged from the trees but still not at the top. A little dog greeted us with lots of barking but we pushed on.

This time we walked more along the ridge line and then there it was, a breathtaking view of the whole valley.

We could see where we had walked from one side to the other. From here we had a gentle descent but not into Le Puy as we had hoped!

By now we were all feeling weary and the sun was warm so Karen was getting hot.

We reached Polignac a small village with a remarkable castle on a rock and lost the path.

We decided we would follow the Camino signs because they are more direct. The GR3 is given to avoiding roads so ADDS distance sometimes!

Eventually after regrouping we came across the view we most wanted to see. Le Puy! We were all pretty spent but an ice cream shop lifted our spirits. A big day.

Our AirBnB is on the 4th floor of a medieval building right in the centre of town. It was a long walk up the stairs, feet smarting. When we reached the apartment we all just about fell in the door and into our beds. I promptly fell asleep for 15 minutes! Refreshed we started our usual routine of bathing, washing and getting organised for dinner. The person who lives/d here must be very tall. I can’t even see into the mirror over the hand basin, the bath and we all had a bath, is so high I nearly fell out getting out, while the toilet is so high my legs don’t even come near the ground. I dangle them like a child!

Reinvigorated we set off for dinner, quite late for us at 8:00 pm and found many quaint places to choose from. Civilisation has many advantages which you appreciate when you have been without for a while! Dinner included Puy green lentils of course and I had trout and lemon mousse for dessert. Delicious and such a nice change.

View from my window

The hairdresser’s assistant. It seems like everyone in France has a dog. And not just one but often multiple dogs. In the city little dogs are preferred and in the countryside all sizes but in particular lots of border collie types as well as German Shepards and mutts. Yorkshire terriers are very common and most dogs are well socialised because they go everywhere.

We stayed in a ChambreD’hote last night and it was so beautifully decorated. Lots of art and books and our hostess was so warm and friendly. The breakfast she provided was outstanding. Retournac turned out to be quite surprising with a substantial lace museum and a couple of interesting restaurants. We went to Sharks! It was a pizza place but also seafood. I had mussels and frites while the others had spectacular pizzas. They even catered for Vegans. It was delicious and the staff were so friendly.

I had to get up really early to deal with ANZ about a new issue that has occurred as a result of stopping my card. Not wanting to wake everyone I conducted the whole discussion in the bathroom.

It started to rain while we ate breakfast and though not heavy it was persistent. The GR 3 took us up a goat track that was overgrown and a running stream due to the rain. After reaching the top of the ridge we plunged into another overgrown, wet and blackberry infested path. This was bush bashing and as the path got wetter and more slippery we had to concentrate or end up wth a fall or turned ankle. When we finally emerged onto the road we decided no more GR 3 today! This looking back to Retournac.

We continued along the road beside the Loire again. This area is called the Gorges of the Loire. It is smaller now but fast flowing with lots of rapids. Lots if activities around canoeing and kayaking.

We saw on the hill top the remains of a fort. Then we arrived in a little village with a 10 th Century Church , St Gilles. It was a Benedictine monastery and fortified itself during the 100 years war. There was aka a coffee shop open, yeah!

A very significant blessing bowl in the church.

We stuck to the road with only a small detour onto an acceptable part of the GR 3 to arrive in Vorey. We are camping tonight but it is ascension day and nothing is open for tea. We should have had lunch but instead we set up camp and had bread and cheese that we had bought yesterday.

Andy was told by someone this restaurant near the camp grounds would be open for dinner. Alas not so. We went in search of a pizza place but ended up at the Boulangerie where we bought savoury slices and cakes as well as Orangina, and pastries for breakfast. We found a picnic table to eat our dinner. From feast to famine. Really we should know by now lunch is the big meal of the day in France.

We are going to bed early tonight as there is no communal place to sit. It is okay because I am tired from my early start and the arduous walk this morning.

Oh. Another small catastrophe. I left my Vegemite on the breakfast table at Valprivas! I was halfway down the mountain when I realised and it was too far to go back. We have purchased a tube of chestnut jam but it isn’t the same. Sob, sob. It had saved the day for Karen and I on more than one occasion. C’est la vie.

Tomorrow Le Puy and we start the Chemin St Jacque.

Today was a beautiful walk but as challenging as any I have done in Victoria. From mountain top to the valley and up again to the top. Then down to the base of the next valley and up again! Finality we crossed the last hill into what seemed like a hidden valley. What I noticed was these valleys had lots of buttercups and purple and crimson clover rather than dandelions. We saw lots of nature from geckos/ lizards, slow worms( or legless lizards?), foals, badger faced sheep, and a more volcanic looking range of mountains.

It looks a little like Italy’s hill towns because there are villages on many of the ridges surrounded by forests

My very first real four leaf clover and a view back up the track. It so often seemed like a rock garden.

We finally arrived at Retournac and were also able to book into the most delightful Chambre d’hote( sort of bed and breakfast). The camping ground is still closed so we had to find a place, but this week due to all the holidays many places are booked out.

It has been All delight. Great walk, charmingly decorated place, good food at a local restaurant and Wifi!

I am up to date. Zzzz

Last night was funny because our pilgrim from La Chamba turned up in just as bad a condition such that she seemed to be able to barely walk, yet she had completed 25 kms. We were surprised to see her and greeted her so warmly that Monsieur Jolly (real name!) thought she was our best friend and took her into our Petite Gîte, instead of the Grand Gîte. Karen felt so sorry for her that she offered up her lower bunk.

The parish Gîte.

We all shared a meal together, Cup of soup, bread and French cheese, peanuts, the pilgrims tinned mackerel and chocolate! How is that for a French meal? Another pilgrim had also arrived with his dog and a barrow. I got talking to him while I washed our coffee cups. He was a social worker who had been made redundant and had decided to walk from Strasbourg to Santiago with his dog to think about his next path. He has dreadlocks and a big plug in his ear but is the nicest kindest person. His name was Robin. We had a great discussion about the choices life offers and about Australia. Lots of French people want to go to New Zealand but they don’t know much about Australia. He was also concerned about Corinne (the pilgrim) and offered her medical help. He only walks as far as his dog wants to go. Then he stops. Anyway we all toddled off to bed and Corrine settled in and snored! She is a big girl, and will lose a lot of weight on this trip. We can’t fault her determination but we all felt concerned about her ability to walk. She could barely put her foot down.

Next morning we woke very early in order to get to our next town. Karen had not slept well due to Corinne’s snoring, I had only noticed it occasionally through the night. Corrine had told us Tuesday was also a holiday for Victory in Europe day as well as Thursday (Ascension Day). Our hopes of finding two coffee stops on the way were dashed!

We set off with rolling thunder on our heels all the way. Our first stop was an historic village of Montarcher where we were able to see a panoramic view of the Alps and mountains we were going to cross.

As we walked the thunder rolled ever closer, but we arrived in Estivareilles and joy of joys we found a boulangerie that sold not only coffee but some groceries. Our maxim of a ‘bird in the hand’ has proved useful because we thought we may not get any dinner due to the holiday. I carried the can of lentils, Karen the pasta, and Andy the can of ratatouille. This town had a memorial to the men who had died in the resistance. We have seen lots of wreaths laid at memorials but this is the first we have seen to the fighters in the resistance.

While having our coffee at the boulangerie it started to hail and rain. The woman was so sympathetic and good natured we waited till the worst had passed and we were kitted out.

This is Peter in all his glory looking like a post box or the hunchback of Notre Dame! Soon after we left and the rain abated such that we then stopped to remover rain gear. A passer by stopped to chat with us and then a farmer appeared at the farm across the road. He backed his tractor into the driveway, jumped out and opened the barn to let out the cows. They then followed the farmer, now back in his tractor, down the road. One farm dog bringing up the rear. We could here some mooing still and sure enough a lone cow appeared out the door of the barn. We joked she had been doing her nails or texting! But a little three legged black farm dog rushed up and barked and barked at her so she returned to the barn!

We followed the cows until they seemed to disappear but when we went over the hill I could see them in a paddock behind the forest. Later we saw more cows with rather ugly spiky rings in their noses. Apparently it stops them biting each other! They look like punks to me. Cows are so curious they follow us all the time.

It was a great walk through the forest and valleys till we arrived in Valprivas where we stayed in the community Gîte. It was a very modern building but as we were the only people there it felt a bit weird. We were reassured that if Corinne turned up she would be in her own space but she never did appear.

The bar was open here and the owner had budgies who were singing and twittering. The phone and internet coverage in these towns is pretty poor and even the bar didn’t have wifi so I have had to stock pile my posts.

Today was fantastic. We had a steep rough track out of town and then we levelled out into forest. The air was filled with the aroma of pine and then we reached the pass of the dead man. A rather ominous name.

we saw an old lady working her garden. She asked us if we were having a promenade!

We were not far from Ferréol and pushed on. What joy! This little hamlet was so neat and many of the homes are renovated but best of all there was an open restaurant!! Look at this wood pile and the window dressings which are so typical

We decided to lunch there and it was a find. I had my first frogs legs. They were the Plat de Jour, with fruit salad or cheese to follow.They were like chicken wings and similar flavour. Lots of bone like quail. The boys had a fondue and Karen had an omelette with potato galette. We were all delighted with the experience. The potato galette was, as they say in the cooking shows, the hero of the dish!

It wasn’t much further then to our Gîte in Chapelle. I was fascinated by the density of dandelions. They just cover the paddocks almost like they are cultivated.

This time we really are on the Chemin St Jacque and tonight we have met our pilgrim from the other night and a young guy from Strasbourg with a dog.

We have seen lots of signs for the Camino today and it seems like they must have a few who have got lost.

Today I photographed all the crosses I came across. One statue near the restaurant was of the Madonna and had the engraving ‘ protector of travellers’.

On arrival at Chappell we could hear singing and talking upstairs but not see anyone and it was quite strange. It put us in mind of the crazy hosteleria, Pablo, in the movie The Way.

We were sad to leave Gîte Gentians. Their hospitality was so wonderful. Dinner last night was delicious and this morning I had a fresh cheese (like a ricotta) as part of breakfast. It was so tasty and the owner said very easy to make so that I think I will try to make it at home sometime.

It was a beautiful walk down the mountain to St Anthème. The views were so picturesque, lots of wild cherry trees with white blossoms dotted across the landscape and contrasting with the variety of green trees and fields. Many of the fields are just full of dandelions too so there is this bright golden yellow to contrast.

On the way down the road we saw a dead snake, the third we have seen so far. I guess they are starting to appear.

We arrived in St Anthème and found Andy at the only open bar. He had left early in order to get into town to do some provision shopping before the shops close at 12:30pm. The shops are often closed Monday too. The Sunday market was shutting down. They have been a feature of many villages we have been through but they are very small.

Peter is feeling much better and even took his tent back from Karen today. He was up to buying ice creams. He always loves ice creams. We were amused by the logo on the backs of some of the other patrons at the bar. There was a group of motorbike riders called the Monty Pistons! The bar was the centre for all the motorbike riders passing by. All sorts of fancy bikes and mostly “mature” riders.

Tonight’s abode is up a little lane and has eased my curiosity about the inside of these village houses. Kitchen and living downstairs and bedrooms upstairs. You can lean out your kitchen window to talk to people in the street!

This was an unusual cross outside the town. Many hamlets have an iron cross of some sort at the cross roads or in a central square. They are usually of intricate ironwork but this one is different.

Today has been a lazy day with a short walk and we are enjoying the break. We have all had our trials and the walking has been more challenging than expected for a range of reasons but we are stronger and the country is very rewarding, the company good and we feel a sense of satisfaction with how far we have come.

I have seen a wild and empty part of France that was very unexpected.

Today’s walking was delightful. We walked into alpine territory reaching 1542 m. We covered a range of terrains from forest, to Nordic ski runs, alpine meadows and heathers. The biggest delight was the acres of wild daffodils. They were above the snow line and just covered hectares in single flowers. We were enchanted. I carried daffodils as my wedding bouquet so I felt it was very special.

The climbing was well graded so no major grunts except after lunch. By that stage I was tired and hungry because we had only one pastry each and a bit of apple for breakfast. Just when I was about to eat my elbow the cafe at Col des Beal (a pass) appeared. I had been very sceptical because the first pass we came to, the place wasn’t open yet. I had face timed Jonathan and Ziggy while we were there but it was really cold and the mists were coming in. I could barely believe there would be an open cafe after our usual experiences.

Lunch was very satisfying with pasta, sausage and salad and coffee! Peter was feeling tired and Karen tried to get him a lift but to no avail so he needed to keep walking. They took the road and Andy and I took the GR3 up the mountain. Looking at it I felt tired but it wasn’t as bad as it had seemed. In fact all the hills were pretty easy though at first glance they seemed intimidating. We walked, and walked and for the first time we actually met people. A walker, some mountain bikers, some horse riders with a pack animal as well, a dune buggy type of car, a Nordic skier in training. Later we passed a family where the mother was passed out on the grass, the dad was looking bushed and the kids full of energy. We did have a concern for them as it was quite late in the day. It was a busy day on the mountain and as the day wore on we had several stops with packs off and lying on the grass. We were all beginning to think where is this next Gîte? The path was flat now but seemed to go on for ever. I saw another hill and thought, ‘ I can’t walk any further, I will pitch the tent here!” But of course the Gîte was just there off the road and it is wonderful. Very modern, friendly owners and great food. And a bar! We treated ourselves to beers and fancy tonics. It was a gorgeous walk but we were done. The woman from last night just walked to the first pass and stayed. Wise woman.

We set off early to the Boulangerie to get provisions for tonight as we are staying in my first Gîte etape( like a Refugio/ Albergue) at La Chamba. There is no town and the Gîte is on the way of the Randonnée ( hiking route) and also the Chemin Saint Jacque(Camino). The walk is really pretty through lovely farms and forests, but it is all uphill. On the roadside I was delighted to see a puddle full of tadpoles! Frogs are very present in France and the area we are walking in is very environmentally conscious. The constant up hill started to take its toll on Peter and after a while he was falling behind and we were getting anxious about him. Eventually with about 7 kms to go Karen was able to flag a car down and ask for help. The wonderful young woman turned around and drove about five minutes back picked him up and then stopped again to ask where he needed to be dropped off, and would we like to give us our packs? We told her La Chamba at the church and then we were too proud to give up our packs. Silly girls. It turned into a steady going up hill and then the last three kilometres seemed endless though Peter came out to meet us and had paid for the Gîte etc.

This is the Gîte near the church and the kitchen.

We were so glad to get there and then discovered that the showers were basic and really there was no room to put your clothes and every part of the floor got wet as well. I didn’t want to wash my clothes so I had nothing to stand on! But being clean is wonderful and the water is hot! So really no complaints.

We ate our gourmet meal of instant soup and Uncle Bens microwave rice with Champignons, to which we added peanuts! It was pretty tasty and the peanuts made the dish and lightened my load for the next day.

This town La Chamba is an Etoilé town. They turn off all public lighting at 11 pm so the stars can be seen. Unfortunately the skies were cloudy so no stargazing for us. Instead we played cards.

I was extremely successful at losing! It was good fun. The next morning as we were having breakfast I went to get something from the bedroom and met an extremely tired walker who was staggering down the stairs to the kitchen. She was very distressed and it turned out she had got lost in the forest on the way from Chabreloche and had not arrived till nearly 9.00 pm. She was very sore and burst into tears telling us. We gave her a hug and then rushed to find medication and strapping for her leg. It transpires she is walking the Chemin St Jacque and had started in Paris. It seemed to settle her to be able to tell of her ordeal. I think she is very courageous to do this walk on her own. What we have done is very strenuous and the last few days quite challenging so doing it on her own is very brave.

It seems that a post I thought had been published failed. That is why the dates are out of sequence.

We are staying at a gite here at Chabreloche. The weather is freezing but the gite is warm with good wifi. Peter is feeling better after a couple of good meals and a rest day again. He won all the card games tonight!