10 th May Retournac to Vorey 15 kms

We stayed in a ChambreD’hote last night and it was so beautifully decorated. Lots of art and books and our hostess was so warm and friendly. The breakfast she provided was outstanding. Retournac turned out to be quite surprising with a substantial lace museum and a couple of interesting restaurants. We went to Sharks! It was a pizza place but also seafood. I had mussels and frites while the others had spectacular pizzas. They even catered for Vegans. It was delicious and the staff were so friendly.

I had to get up really early to deal with ANZ about a new issue that has occurred as a result of stopping my card. Not wanting to wake everyone I conducted the whole discussion in the bathroom.

It started to rain while we ate breakfast and though not heavy it was persistent. The GR 3 took us up a goat track that was overgrown and a running stream due to the rain. After reaching the top of the ridge we plunged into another overgrown, wet and blackberry infested path. This was bush bashing and as the path got wetter and more slippery we had to concentrate or end up wth a fall or turned ankle. When we finally emerged onto the road we decided no more GR 3 today! This looking back to Retournac.

We continued along the road beside the Loire again. This area is called the Gorges of the Loire. It is smaller now but fast flowing with lots of rapids. Lots if activities around canoeing and kayaking.

We saw on the hill top the remains of a fort. Then we arrived in a little village with a 10 th Century Church , St Gilles. It was a Benedictine monastery and fortified itself during the 100 years war. There was aka a coffee shop open, yeah!

A very significant blessing bowl in the church.

We stuck to the road with only a small detour onto an acceptable part of the GR 3 to arrive in Vorey. We are camping tonight but it is ascension day and nothing is open for tea. We should have had lunch but instead we set up camp and had bread and cheese that we had bought yesterday.

Andy was told by someone this restaurant near the camp grounds would be open for dinner. Alas not so. We went in search of a pizza place but ended up at the Boulangerie where we bought savoury slices and cakes as well as Orangina, and pastries for breakfast. We found a picnic table to eat our dinner. From feast to famine. Really we should know by now lunch is the big meal of the day in France.

We are going to bed early tonight as there is no communal place to sit. It is okay because I am tired from my early start and the arduous walk this morning.

Oh. Another small catastrophe. I left my Vegemite on the breakfast table at Valprivas! I was halfway down the mountain when I realised and it was too far to go back. We have purchased a tube of chestnut jam but it isn’t the same. Sob, sob. It had saved the day for Karen and I on more than one occasion. C’est la vie.

Tomorrow Le Puy and we start the Chemin St Jacque.

Author: fleetfootkath

I am a keen walker and traveller. I love to explore and learn about new people, places and cultures with a sense of joy and gratitude for this fortunate life. I believe walking is a wonderful way to really connect with the present and the beauty of the world that surrounds us. It makes me happy.

3 thoughts on “10 th May Retournac to Vorey 15 kms”

  1. Alas non Australians will never understand how necessary it is for us to take vegemite on overseas trips. My sympathies on your loss Kathy 🙏


  2. wonderful photos and so enjoying your journey but the lack of food Kathy when you need it after the walking – those walk pants must be dropping off you.


    1. It doesn’t seem so. We are eating a lot of pizza bread and cheese! They are looser but not as much as I expected. It is a revelation that there is so much wild country in France. We have seen such varied terrain.


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