fleetfootkath

It has been awhile since I added some posts to this blog. Now I am 6 weeks out from my next adventure to Morocco, Portugal and Jordan.

This trip is a mix of private small group tour (Morocco),unguided but supported walking in Portugal, and a group tour in Jordan. It will be a different experience to travel in this manner. I am going with old friends for part of the trip and meeting new ones in the later stages. The emphasis will be on culture and history rather than a physically energetic trip.

The variety of landscapes, culture and history will make for an exciting and varied holiday. I have updated all my vaccinations since most have lapsed and I am exploring packing options. There are more options this time because I am not backpacking! However I love to travel light, it makes you agile and more flexible which in the end is more enjoyable.

So hello again and I will be keeping my journal while I travel if anyone is interested.

It is cold and sunny here in Melbourne ( today at least). I have found it a bit hard to adjust after the lovely summer I have experienced in France and England, but I must not complain because it is actually winter here and to be expected.

My family was glad to see me ( always reassuring) as were many friends who have called on the phone or emailed to welcome me home. It has been quite busy in fact. The dog was beside himself but has not resumed sleeping on his bed in my bedroom. He sleeps in the dogsitter’s bed! My niece Hazel has allowed him to snuggle up so he isn’t giving up that luxury in a hurry. She has indulged that but not his food, and he has resumed his former sleek body because she has been strict about treats. I am grateful. He is off to be groomed next week so he can see out from his fringe!

My big shock was a speeding fine I incurred prior to my departure. I didn’t know I had one because it was issued a week after I left for France. It was only when I finally faced the pile of mail( most of which was disposable) that I found the final notice.

Next step licence cancellation or wheel clamping! It was midnight by then so I didn’t sleep very easily. However I did contact Fines Victoria the following morning and was granted a stay and chance to prove I was ignorant of the charge because I was out of the country from before I received the ‘plain white envelope’ , which had no indication of its importance, and can produce evidence to that effect.

I very quickly tried to submit my evidence by the online form but it kept crashing; so then I tried ringing and after about 15 minutes the phone was answered. The young woman was very calm and pleasant and reassuring but suggested I print the form and then scan and email. She omitted to tell me what the email address was and once again I could not find it online. To complicate matters my printer has decided not to print. Copy yes but print from computer no! I spent a great portion of the day on this task and decided then to just get it printed elsewhere and hand deliver to the actual office.

How would anyone collecting mail for another know this was important?

It takes awhile to get back into the swing of things here so I made a list. By the end of my list I was thinking that living a nomads life has a lot going for it! A thought popped into my head that was prompted by the memory of a sign I saw on the Chemin St Jacques – Life isn’t complicated. We make it complicated. I think that is going to be my mantra for awhile. Keep it simple.

Hazel my dog sitting niece, sent me a very funny clip about cheap air fares that struck a chord with me. Enjoy. Cheap flights on YouTube

It is the end of the week, I have managed to unpack the bag, do some washing, walk the dog, cook a few meals, deal with my correspondence, start catching up with family and friends, avert a small catastrophe and sleep pretty well most nights. I don’t think I suffered jet lag to notice. I have resumed driving and only once thought , is it this side of the road?!

All is good with the world. I am home and my bed is lovely.

An early start to farewell Emma, then later Monique and Michel drove me to Biarritz Airport. We arrived very early because the French vacationsAn early start to farewell Emma, then later Monique and Michel drove me to Biarritz Airport. We arrived very early because the French vacations have started in earnest and the traffic jams leaving Bordeaux suggested we may be embroiled in heavy traffic. Despite the rain that had started we had a good ride without hold ups at all. This country side and all the road works reminded me of the trip from Surfers to Ballina. They are widening the road to include an extra lane and it seemed so familiar.

My check in was not possible because I was too early but we had coffee and said very emotional goodbyes. They have been so kind and easy to stay with (despite the language).We seem to have a connection that is soul deep. When they left they gave me a long, hard hug and said simply, ‘we love you’. It was enough to bring me to tears. I feel the same. Precious memories, precious friends.

I started to think about the next stage from London and carrying the now despised black bag I used to protect the back pack on the way over. I have accumulated a few more items plus I have a box of gear waiting at the hotel at Heathrow that Andy and Karen held for me which has the camping gear and warmer clothes. My idea was to stick it in the bag with the backpack but it will be heavy and without wheels it is hard to manage. I spy a garish suitcase at the quicksilver shop which is on sale. Because I have my backpack with me I can try it to see if it fits within and it does. I haggle a little and get another 10 % réduction so it is quite reasonable. It is also going to be very easy to find on the baggage carousels! No more boring black or other serviceable colour. It is definitely not cool but then no one will want to take it either! Surfer chic.

Eventually I get to check in and my easyJet booking has no luggage! I knew I had booked luggage but I had no proof and so had to pay up there and then. That App is not to be trusted! Then the plane was late about 40 minutes. I hate the way easyJet gets you all excited about getting on the plane and then keep you penned like cattle at the sale yards for what seems like ages before you actually start boarding.

Arriving at Gatwick, the immigration experience this time was painfully slow and by the time I arrived at baggage collection my bag was one of two left from the flight. However it was instantly recognisable! Finding the National Bus Express to Heathrow was easy and a great option: £27, 1 hour, direct trip. Train options were more expensive with changes and no quicker. By the time I arrived at Heathrow I was tired and just found a cab to the hotel. It was 8 pm instead of 5! I checked in, collected my box from the very chipper concierge and had dinner it was close to 9pm. I ordered a large glass of wine with dinner!

I am so glad I could get a good nights sleep after that day. Next morning I headed off to T2 again on the airport shuttle and arrived early to be met by utter chaos at the bag drop counter. The baggage conveyers had stopped and no bags could be processed! People were milling around all squashed up trying to get their baggage tickets printed before they could enter the queue that went around the whole of section A. One and a half hours later I actually get to a bag drop counter and just as my bag is added to the computer the whole thing stops again!

The poor woman told me to take my bag to the oversized luggage counter because my bag might get forgotten if we left it there. By now my leisurely time preflight was down to boarding time and of course my flight was at the most distant gate which involved two steep escalators, numerous anonymous corridors and moving footpaths before I was spat out into a long hall of boarding gates of which mine was the very last.

The boarding was smooth but once in the plane a communal groan escaped the passengers when the pilot announced we would have to wait an hour on the tarmac because we had lost our take off slot due to the baggage issue. I was longing for that rather efficient Bristol or Toulouse airports by now!

On the upside I discovered I had two very pleasant travelling companions Ben and Ingrid, but I found the seats excruciatingly uncomfortable. At least I am on the aisle but the space is so tiny even for little me. Ben raised the subject of inhuman conditions for travellers which I think has merit. A class action for cramped conditions?

Singapore appeared after 5 movies and a doze. The next flight is on schedule but guess what? It is from the most distant gate again! Well that is fine, I need the exercise after all the sitting. The long walk to the gate.

The joy of flying. Melbourne only a few more hours away.

When I arrive finally in Melbourne it is blowing a gale and the baggage is held up! I am cursed. I eventually retrieved my bag after a jam in the carousel was fixed and waited for Nick in the drive through Pick up. I am glad I thought to put my down jacket on because it is a wet, cold and windy night. Melbourne winter. I am home.

It is raining today but cooler. Emma is wearing a sweater! We are all up early because the repairman is coming at 8 am to fix the roller blind that broke when Emma was winding it down the other day. While he is here Emma downloads a movie on the computer in my bedroom and also some French music on Spotify for me.

The rain pours down so we watch the movie before we go to lunch at an Italian restaurant. Italian is Emma’s pick. It is her last day too; tomorrow we both leave. She is heading to Bordeaux to visit with a girlfriend. I gave her my travel pass so the two last rides wouldn’t be wasted. I am heading off to Biarritz to fly to the UK.

The Italian restaurant was very good and the strawberry tiramisu for dessert absolutely luscious. Light as a feather. We retired to home and in the manner of this country relaxed for an hour or so before we engaged in a fierce battle in the horse race board game. The rain is fierce so it is a good way to pass the time. This game was epic with each person knocking the other off the board just as you start to get close to safety. Backwards and forwards the play went. The dice were so unpredictable you could be going well and then someone comes from behind and knocks you back to start. It was vigorous and rowdy and absolutely fun. Monique won in the end despite being way behind for a long time.

Emma and I have another go at the hula hoop Monique has. She can keep the hoop up and spinning for ages while we two are both pretty hopeless. We are starting to keep it spinning on our waists for a nanosecond longer, but both have a long way to go. Monique says it is good for your core muscles. I used to be able to do it when I was a kid but I can tell you it is not one of those things you never forget. Our laughing probably has a lot to do with our poor performances

Because it is our last dinner Monique has cooked steak and vegetables which are so tender and perfectly cooked rare but no blood. As a special treat she has bought Paris Brest and St Honore pastries for our dessert. They are also delicious and the fillings light and not overly rich despite their appearance.

It has been a relaxing and easy week with good friends. I am so lucky we met on the first Camino and kept in touch. They are partly the motivation for my rediscovered interest in learning French again. It has been well worth the effort.

I slept in today. It is very relaxing here and Monique and Michel are excellent relaxed hosts. I keep thinking it is like Queensland. The weather is sultry, very hot and humid. It is a great place to relax before I return home to Melbourne. I am speaking French still and enjoying learning the French way of life.

Michel and I went to the market this morning for fruit and then later to the patisserie for a Paris Brest, chocolate eclairs, triple choc slice and a Dax pistachio slice. All of which I was so busy ogling I didn’t take pictures!We also needed a fuse for the aircon in the car which we found at an AutoBarn type of place.

After we returned we had champagne aperitif, tomato salad with home grown tomatoes, followed by a scrumptious courgette and cheese flan, ravioli for Emma, chicken and potato tortilla, then cheese ( about 5 choices) and green salad, followed by the cakes and fresh fruit. All this was accompanied by fresh bread, and a good Bordeaux red. A great way to ensure a variety of food groups, and vitamins!

As it is really hot we head off to another beach today. About a half hour drive again to Vieux-Boucau-les Bains. This is much more of a beach town with camping, beachy tourist type shops, holiday letting and lots of parking. The beach is over the dunes again but a road and pedestrian path lead straight to it. The surf is much calmer today and the breeze off the water refreshing. We set up our spot on the beach and head for the water. The life guards use a whistle to get people’s attention and several times they make loudspeaker announcements about safety and a lost child. It was comforting and surprising to hear announcements in both English and French. It is a huge expense of beach backed by a saltwater lake. There are a lot of people on surfboards but not too many can stand and they don’t seem to sit in the water waiting for the right wave like at home, but just catch any white water they can. It isn’t great surf but there are some good curves every now and again. I note a couple of Australian surf brands rip curl and billabong. It is great watching people. This little guy in the rip curl onesy was too cute to miss.

I am impressed with the European body confidence. There are a few very big girls today in bikinis and lots of in between sizes. All ages and sizes wear bikinis which I like too. Everyone seems comfortable in their skin and there is a lot of it. People are sunbaking with not too many hats either. They change unselfconsciously at the beach as well. It makes Australians seem very coy.

We are home again by about 5:30 and it is soon time to eat again. Emma is always starving of course and I have just accepted this is the French way. It may not be as large as lunch but we still have the whole five courses. When I forget myself and think I will just have the fruit I am told to wait. There is more, beef stew with rice and potatoes followed by cheese, salad and dessert. It is not large but it is all delicious. I will need to start walking again soon!

Another relaxing day. I just say I am in recovery from all my walking. I am seriously impressed with Monique who runs every morning. She walks really fast too. I am inspired by her energy and she is a few years older than me. She used to run marathons and when she stopped at 50 she and Michel took up ballroom dancing. Michel takes amazing photos and he has created two picture books of their Via de la Plata Camino in 2015. Some of the photos are exceptional and we both agree it was a beautiful walk.

I wanted to take my friends for lunch so we went to a French restaurant( of course) which specialised in duck. I had asparagus for entree and it was the white one. I have never been that keen on the white but this was delicious. I could finally see why the Europeans go for it in such a big way. The accompanying prosciutto style meat was really good and the salad had bits of duck sprinkled through it. Michel, Emma and I had the duck roasted and served ‘rose’ (pink). It was the best duck I have ever eaten. Robert eat your heart out. It was succulent and tender and the skin was crisp. The gravy had foie gras in it and was so tasty. It was not too rich which is my usual complaint with duck. In Australia I think they would frown on the cooking and be wary of salmonella! Michel tells me they are not farmed but wild ducks.

Monique opted for a salad of goats cheese thinking it would be meat free. Alas there was a lot of Lardon scattered across the salad. Landon is pork, like bacon. We were not happy but she had not said specifically that she was a vegetarian ( which is not that common in France). Karen had always to specifically say no meat or fish! Despite this it was a delicious meal.

Afterwards we wandered around the shops and into Galaries Lafayette which was air conditioned. What a delight! Air conditioning is not found very much in France it seems to me. The sales are on and Monique was tempted to buy a couple of Tshirts and I succumbed to a cross season top, half fleece and half shirt. The store was very attractive and a bit like DJs at home.

As we wandered around, the clouds started to build and we were anxious to return to get the washing off the line. Along the way we found another book exchange box. I have seen many around the place and they seem to be used well, often near a bench or in a park.

We passed the historic mineral water fountain that has been here since Roman times. The water is very hot. Emma flicked her hand through but she had to be quick because it is boiling.

At breakfast I am enjoying drinking coffee from my super sized coffee cup (the size of a medium Chinese noodle Bowl!). It is very traditional. I have amused Michel and Monique by my penchant for Vegemite but no one is converted. Confiture is their choice and dark cherry is especially delicious.

Michel and I went shopping at the Grand Mall. The supermarket is amazing. The absolute best I have seen in France. It is like a huge Coles, liquorland and Kmart all in one building. The homewares were so attractive, even the dishwashing liquids were styled. The groceries were equally as attractive with fresh produce such as fish, meat and poultry well displayed. There is a whole separate section for Duck! They actually sell Pintade (guinea fowl). The wines were extensive but the special room for cases of wine from winemakers (Chateau this and that) was so impressive. The cases went to the ceiling and they are in a separate room from the individual wine bottles. Next door they have an equally extensive, music, movie, games, books, art materials, stationary in an equally attractive shop.

The mall was very attractive with lots of light and classy shops. They even had an H&M store and an excellent chocolatier. You can see why small villages are reducing or losing their amenities when people can drive to places like this easily. Michel still goes to a traditional independent Boucherie because the meat is excellent. We stopped in for some sausages for a barbecue today.

Emma slept in till nearly lunch time. I have discovered a delicious cheese that comes as a roll and Emma posed with it like advertising so I can try to get it at home. While we were finishing our meal she received news her dog had died. She was distraught. She just wanted to be alone. I can understand. She had this pet since she was a child.

Michel and Monique decided we would go to the beach at Messanges about 30 minutes away. We drove through one of the largest forests in Europe- farmed Pines and Spruce I think and lots of corn fields. The country is flat and looks rather like some parts of Australia. When we arrived at the beach we passed streams of cyclists and people heading to the beach too. Despite the numbers the beach was not crowded as it is really long and wide. The beach is over these large sand dunes and we walked down stairs to reach the beach.

Once we settled on a spot we headed into the water. The tide was out so it was a bit of a walk but the water was warm. The surf was very rough with large waves of white water and a strong undertow but a lot of fun. It was so good to be in the sea and warm water was a pleasant surprise. My previous experience had been in June in Spain and it was freezing. What a difference a month makes! It could have been any Aussie beach crowd. The lifesavers sat on a high chair righ in the waters edge and had a truck to cruise the beach and keep watch. Here you swim between the blue flags. The sea breeze was so refreshing. We left at four before the traffic got too bad. They have a fire watch tower to observe the forest which is behind the beach.

At home again Emma emerged for a bit of dinner and seemed more settled. We watched the news and dubbed movies. I find it very weird to look at the actors because their mouths don’t quite coincide with what they say. It is good practice and I am getting better at understanding. A lot of the movies are American and we also watch the old Zorro! That is hilarious and quickly spoken but of course you know the stories because they are so simple.

It is very relaxing here and I continue to practice my French. Emma and I only speak a little English. She will study English at University in Bordeaux from September.

Emma arrived this morning very early at 7.00 am. She has grown so tall since I saw her last and she is about to turn 18.

She is very tired after watching the football and partying till after 12 pm. After breakfast she heads off to bed until lunch time. The sky is rumbling with thunder and lightening and it soon starts to rain , then pour dramatically with ongoing thunder and lightening. It is a relief for the gardens and a break from the oppressive heat.

We are all content to laze around, though Monique is busy in the kitchen getting lunch prepared. As usual it is a grand occasion with melon and ham and tiny tomatoes, followed by an absolutely stunning mushroom tart, chicken and vegetables, cheese and salad, then dessert accompanied by fresh bread and Bordeaux red wine.

We retire to the terrace to play some board games. French games that are similar but also different. It was a lot of fun and a great way to pass the time on a very wet day. Eventually the sun returned and we took a walk past the thermal spa and the lake and people playing pétanque and on through some new suburbs. They are mostly individual homes with gardens but they are not as large as Australian homes or particularly different in design. They are simple and probably quite affordable.

We pass an arena where small cows are used for bull ‘fighting’. They just do the avoiding, twisting aside moves. No killing.it might bp

A beautiful quiet day. It is really hot here and they need rain. I accompany Michel to the boulangerie and the newsagent for our fresh bread, a daily task in France. Bread is so essential to all meals. We visit the oldest Church but cannot go inside. Even on the Sunday it is locked against thieves. There is a diligence about locking up and pulling down the shutters at home too because Michel and Monique have been burgled in the past. It reminds me how lucky I am to have the security I have at home.

I really am eating well here and am grateful not to have a large tea as well or I won’t fit my meagre wardrobe by the end of the week. Monique is a fantastic cook.

The neighbours cat is wandering restlessly around us, sitting on me then hopping off. As soon as she hears her owner’s car drive up she takes off. It is as if she knew they were coming today.

We are having a lazy day reading and waiting for the football tonight at 5.00 pm. It is a great game and I get excited too when France finally scores the first goal.

When France wins, the car horns start blaring so I am really glad not to be in Bordeaux. There would be no sleep there tonight going on the racket they made when France won its place in the finals! Here it is more subdued. The TV showed extraordinary crowds on the Champs Élysées and at Fan stadiums. Football of any code seems to unite people.

It is so nice to just stop for a bit after my weeks of travel.

Tomorrow Emma arrives. She is Michel and Monique’s grand-daughter.