Author: fleetfootkath

We had a lovely breakfast with home made yoghurt and apple cake as well as the usual muesli, fruit and breads. They may have some rules but they know how to feed pilgrims.

The weather was misty but no rain and as we climbed( again!) the mist/fog rolled in. The road is good and I got such a rhythm going I shot ahead accompanied by a lively black dog. Creating a hill I looked back to see where the others were and Karen was waving to me. They had stopped at another of these pop up rest stops. I charged back and went in to find the guys drinking hot coffee and chocolate. I needed a loo stop but the sign said behind and below the house. In fact it was the public loo across the park a good distance away. When I went in it was quite modern but the placement of the toilet and the urinal left a lot to be desired. If you sit on the loo and bend over to attend to yourself you nearly end up with your head in the urinal! Anyway it served the purpose. We were back on the track again and visibility was quite low, about a 100 metres. All you could hear was the tinkle of cow bells, a few birds twittering and the gurgle of water running as snow melted. Other obstacles were fallen trees and branches from the sudden snowfall.

Once again the track turned slushy and slippery which is very tiring to walk on. We were getting tired from the effort to keep our footing when Andy and I spotted a picnic table. The difficulty with snow is you can’t just stop and rest. You get cold quickly and wet sitting. As we decided to stop and have a lunch stop of bread and cheese and muesli bars another group were also heading towards the table. It turned out they had stayed at the gite last night and two are driving and two are walking. The two driving had bought lunch. They insisted we share the table and even gave us a blanket to sit on. It was really nice of them. The couple walking are brother and sister and are walking with a huge dog. Andy and I both were amused about the gite not wanting our boots inside but no problem with the dog!

We were cold after the stop but once we got walking we warmed up and the track started to get wetter and wetter as we descended. Actually it was a fast flowing stream! When we came out of the forest to see the valley below it seemed surprising after we had been in fog nearly all day.

As we walked into town we came across two crosses loaded with pilgrim’s stones. It is common on these journeys to place stones on rocks and cairns and any place that seems significant to mark a sacred journey.

We are all tired and a little footsore but the bar we are staying at has boot drying machines! They look a little like vacuum cleaners but they blow warm air.

The town is in the Lozière department. We have left the Haute Loire.

I noticed a sign that said it was 1475 kilometres to Santiago!

After a very convivial and substantial dinner of lentil soup, beef ragout and polenta, cheese and dessert, with our hosts Miriam and Patrick and 6 French and 2 American walkers at the Gite Tsabone, we all slept very well. I woke feeling ready and able to face the day. We started the climb out of the valley in rain then as we got higher, sleet and finally at the top it was snowing again! It was a steep climb up to about 1300 metres. The whole countryside was still blanketed with snow but the path was good. It was constant but not as heavy as yesterday. We were all getting wetter and wetter but I felt pretty strong. We happened on a chap who has turned his barn into a comfort stop with toilet, heaters and simple refreshments. He couldn’t understand why we were all walking in this weather but it gave him business! There is a lot more focus on supporting Pilgrims now. When we left his place the track turned feral and it was walk in puddles or fall over! It was a goat track. My feet were soon saturated. We were trying to walk fast to keep warm.

Heading into Saugues you could barely see the town for the snow billowing around. But as you walk down the track there are these amazing wooden sculptures. A tree like a candelabra was quite outstanding. This is an Artisan town full of art, wooden carvings and iron sculptures. The weather was so foul we had no taste for exploring. We just wanted food and shelter.

The first place we came to we entered, creating massive puddles all over the floor. I don’t think the waitress was impressed but when we ordered the set menu de Jour she was happy. I had a salmon terrine and salad, beef bourginone and ratatouille mash, followed by a delicious chocolate mousse. It was so warming and nourishing and gave us energy for the next 10kms.

We put our cold wet gear back on and started walking fast to try and dry our clothes from the inside out now the snow and rain has stopped. Alas just as I started to dry from the thigh down it began raining again. The last four kms seemed for ever today! We walked through forest and fields all deep in snow. While we were at the restaurant the news flashed that France has had a record fall of snow in May. 30 cms or more. You don’t say!

Finally with throbbing wet feet, and flagging energy we arrived at our Gite, the Two Pilgrims. It is very nice but they are very rule bound. We all had to go to our room together, we needed to put our packs in lockers and take a box with our possessions. We must wear our shoes because we are going out side to get to our room. Our packs are wet through despite our pack covers and I felt a bit cranky about it but complied. I don’t think the young man has ever been a pilgrim! Anyway they did offer us a hot drink on arrival and they do washing and drying! All our smelly wet clothes were returned clean and dry. Wonderful.

Dinner promptly at 7.00 was preceded by a sing along. The host is a choir master in Grenoble in winter and runs the Gîte in Summer. He played a beautiful guitar accompaniment while his wife has a sweet, strong voice. We were all given the song sheet so after a couple of run through we could sing along. The song is Ultreya Santiago.

The group did a pretty good job of singing it. Then dinner of a tasty soup, sausage casserole and veggies followed by cheese and tart Tatin with ice cream.

Karen offered to correct the English Translation that our host gave us to explain why we did the singing. She is a professional editor so she was quick and accurate. It was another of her good deeds. She is a very generous, gentle person but no pushover.

We had a great room, no bunks! Our own bathroom and toilet so despite the rules it was a comfortable place to stay

We all crashed and slept soundly.

We awoke to Snow falling quietly but steadily onto the roof across the alley. We togged up in as much gear as we needed. (In my case nearly everything!) We set off following the shells that mark the way of St James( Chemin St Jacques) up the hill out of town. As we walked the snow fell more and more steadily. My boots started to get wet though I was mostly warm, and going uphill raised a sweat. Once we reached the top and crossed the main road we decided that the path was too deep in snow to follow easily so we took to the road.

The disadvantage of the road was that cars passing showered us with ice and slush. I am sure one guy did it on purpose but most slowed down to minimise our discomfort. By now my feet are wet, my gloves sodden and my sense of adventure waning. The snow was blowing in our faces and generally it wasn’t like skiing! After about 10 kms of trudging through the snow, the prospect of another 17kms was beyond bearing. At the first cafe we came to we staggered in dripping everywhere and ordered our coffees and chocolate and discussed options for the rest of the walk. Peter was even less well attired than I was so we decided to take a taxi. €80 was a small price to pay I thought in order to get to our next stop at Monistrol.

The proprietor was so kind and helped us get the taxi. Andy is very committed to walking and so he and Karen set off again. I thought the weather was worsening but they wanted to give it a go. Shortly after the taxi arrived and Peter and I left, passing the others on the road. We arrived and didn’t see the entry to our Gîte, so we retired to the small bar in town. It was full of wet and cold pilgrims.

Just after we had eaten a warming bowl of soup, Andy and Karen arrived too. They had been offered a lift shortly after we passed them. The countryside is completely blanketed with snow which is very unusual for this time of year apparently.

Our Gîte is also full of pilgrims who have taken alternative modes of transport to avoid freezing. If we had known the bus ran on Sunday we would have take that!

It has taken me awhile to thaw out. Everything was wet and I felt zapped. Tomorrow is another day but we will probably walk again if it isn’t actually snowing. The weather is supposed to warm up again later in the week.

Today was a rest day and at first we were tired and thinking we needed another day but once we got out and about seeing the sights we were invigorated. Our first stop was the Cathedral which has a rich history and dates back to the 10 th Century(of course!). It is unusual in that two colours of stone have been used in its construction and it has a central stairway of 110 steps from the street into the nave of the church. It also has a black Madonna at the main Altar and is reputed to be built on the place where some miracles occurred.

There is also a big statue of Saint James(Jacques).

Le Puy is a major commencement route for the Camino in France. We saw lots of pilgrims around town and we purchased our own ‘ Pilgrim’s Passport ‘ from here. They allow us to use the special Gîtes for pilgrims. They are cheaper than other accommodation.

Next stop was the Notre Dame of France a forerunner for the Statue of Liberty. It was constructed out of iron from cannons taken from the enemy (Russia) during the Crimean War by Napoleon III. The statue stands on a volcanic pinnacle, the Corneille Rock which was the highest point in town. Peter, Karen and I climbed all the way to the head. Peter took the ladder to climb the last bit and stick his head through to see through the crown of stars. I thought I had gone far enough and would look out the little view ports. Trouble was I was too short and couldn’t reach any of the holes! All that effort, 252 steps and didn’t see a thing! The views from the base were great though. Our Lady of France symbolises the victory of good over evil. It is unusual for a statue, the Virgin holds the Child in her right arm so he can bless the town without hiding the face of the mother.

Next stop the chapel of St Michael perched on another volcanic pinnacle. It’s a little like a cave inside, very simple. Another 250 odd steps up!

We continued to wander around the medieval part of town seeing markets and lace makers, little statues in the walls which were unusual.

We came across an interesting vegetarian restaurant, a rarity, which we booked for dinner. I went off to visit the Camino exhibit while Andy and Karen went looking for gloves and Peter took a nap.

The weather bureau has forecast snow tomorrow and we are not really set up for that. We have two sets of gloves between four and mine are too small and not waterproof. In the meantime there is a light show on some of the buildings tonight which we are looking forward to seeing.

The vegetarian restaurant was excellent. We had the most delicious amuse bouche of extremely light asparagus cream on strawberries in a little cone. I had a burger with haricot beans, courgettes, and onion cream surrounded by purple potatoes on rocket. The others had lentil lasagne and salad. We were all so hungry that we forgot to take a photo! What was particularly interesting was the family of four who arrived with their border collie dog. The waitress brought the dog a bowl of water before even taking any orders. This was inside the restaurant! How different from Australia. The only places banned to dogs have been the Church and the Supermarket. The other thing I find outstanding are the good manners exhibited by almost everyone. A person comes into a bar and shakes hands and says bonjour to everyone, even us. Walking up the street people say bonjour. It is so civilised and friendly.

After dinner when we set out to watch the light show we saw one and then it started to rain, heavier and heavier. Our enthusiasm waned and we scuttled home. It was late for us at 11.45 pm.

We packed up ready for an early departure.

When we were in Montmarch we saw an explanation about the crosses in all the towns and cross roads. Some are to commemorate people who died in epidemics, wars, in place of churches to show they are blessed villages, to show the way, and the limit of a parish or area.

After a cold, restless night in the tent, (I needed to put on my fleece and socks and had been sliding down hill all night), I was awake early and packed up quickly. It was still cold so we found a tabac that was open and had our essential hot coffee and hot chocolates. Thawed out we set off eagerly. We followed the GR3 again but ever wary to deviate if it got overgrown again. This is the major Rondonnée route in France but it is also one of the toughest. Many of the tracks haven’t been walked or maintained for ages. Today was like a bridal path, soft underfoot, wide and well used. The walking was delightful with fields and horse paddocks and the mountain ranges on the horizon. How is this for a pigeon/bird roosting solution?The term Puy is supposed to be for domes of old volcanos. We made good time and hit a village sooner than expected but opted to picnic by the river so we can dry our tents in the sun.

I had a catnap after our lunch of bread and cheese, chocolate and fruit. Tents dried we packed up and started the climb to the panoramic view. We passed a chateau on the water that must have had a waterwheel to generate electricity or for milling perhaps. The Loire runs fast all the time so you can imagine them using its force. It appeared renovations were underway if the noises emanating from the building were any indication.

Up we trekked, up, up on a rough but well graded path till we emerged from the trees but still not at the top. A little dog greeted us with lots of barking but we pushed on.

This time we walked more along the ridge line and then there it was, a breathtaking view of the whole valley.

We could see where we had walked from one side to the other. From here we had a gentle descent but not into Le Puy as we had hoped!

By now we were all feeling weary and the sun was warm so Karen was getting hot.

We reached Polignac a small village with a remarkable castle on a rock and lost the path.

We decided we would follow the Camino signs because they are more direct. The GR3 is given to avoiding roads so ADDS distance sometimes!

Eventually after regrouping we came across the view we most wanted to see. Le Puy! We were all pretty spent but an ice cream shop lifted our spirits. A big day.

Our AirBnB is on the 4th floor of a medieval building right in the centre of town. It was a long walk up the stairs, feet smarting. When we reached the apartment we all just about fell in the door and into our beds. I promptly fell asleep for 15 minutes! Refreshed we started our usual routine of bathing, washing and getting organised for dinner. The person who lives/d here must be very tall. I can’t even see into the mirror over the hand basin, the bath and we all had a bath, is so high I nearly fell out getting out, while the toilet is so high my legs don’t even come near the ground. I dangle them like a child!

Reinvigorated we set off for dinner, quite late for us at 8:00 pm and found many quaint places to choose from. Civilisation has many advantages which you appreciate when you have been without for a while! Dinner included Puy green lentils of course and I had trout and lemon mousse for dessert. Delicious and such a nice change.

View from my window

The hairdresser’s assistant. It seems like everyone in France has a dog. And not just one but often multiple dogs. In the city little dogs are preferred and in the countryside all sizes but in particular lots of border collie types as well as German Shepards and mutts. Yorkshire terriers are very common and most dogs are well socialised because they go everywhere.

We stayed in a ChambreD’hote last night and it was so beautifully decorated. Lots of art and books and our hostess was so warm and friendly. The breakfast she provided was outstanding. Retournac turned out to be quite surprising with a substantial lace museum and a couple of interesting restaurants. We went to Sharks! It was a pizza place but also seafood. I had mussels and frites while the others had spectacular pizzas. They even catered for Vegans. It was delicious and the staff were so friendly.

I had to get up really early to deal with ANZ about a new issue that has occurred as a result of stopping my card. Not wanting to wake everyone I conducted the whole discussion in the bathroom.

It started to rain while we ate breakfast and though not heavy it was persistent. The GR 3 took us up a goat track that was overgrown and a running stream due to the rain. After reaching the top of the ridge we plunged into another overgrown, wet and blackberry infested path. This was bush bashing and as the path got wetter and more slippery we had to concentrate or end up wth a fall or turned ankle. When we finally emerged onto the road we decided no more GR 3 today! This looking back to Retournac.

We continued along the road beside the Loire again. This area is called the Gorges of the Loire. It is smaller now but fast flowing with lots of rapids. Lots if activities around canoeing and kayaking.

We saw on the hill top the remains of a fort. Then we arrived in a little village with a 10 th Century Church , St Gilles. It was a Benedictine monastery and fortified itself during the 100 years war. There was aka a coffee shop open, yeah!

A very significant blessing bowl in the church.

We stuck to the road with only a small detour onto an acceptable part of the GR 3 to arrive in Vorey. We are camping tonight but it is ascension day and nothing is open for tea. We should have had lunch but instead we set up camp and had bread and cheese that we had bought yesterday.

Andy was told by someone this restaurant near the camp grounds would be open for dinner. Alas not so. We went in search of a pizza place but ended up at the Boulangerie where we bought savoury slices and cakes as well as Orangina, and pastries for breakfast. We found a picnic table to eat our dinner. From feast to famine. Really we should know by now lunch is the big meal of the day in France.

We are going to bed early tonight as there is no communal place to sit. It is okay because I am tired from my early start and the arduous walk this morning.

Oh. Another small catastrophe. I left my Vegemite on the breakfast table at Valprivas! I was halfway down the mountain when I realised and it was too far to go back. We have purchased a tube of chestnut jam but it isn’t the same. Sob, sob. It had saved the day for Karen and I on more than one occasion. C’est la vie.

Tomorrow Le Puy and we start the Chemin St Jacque.

Today was a beautiful walk but as challenging as any I have done in Victoria. From mountain top to the valley and up again to the top. Then down to the base of the next valley and up again! Finality we crossed the last hill into what seemed like a hidden valley. What I noticed was these valleys had lots of buttercups and purple and crimson clover rather than dandelions. We saw lots of nature from geckos/ lizards, slow worms( or legless lizards?), foals, badger faced sheep, and a more volcanic looking range of mountains.

It looks a little like Italy’s hill towns because there are villages on many of the ridges surrounded by forests

My very first real four leaf clover and a view back up the track. It so often seemed like a rock garden.

We finally arrived at Retournac and were also able to book into the most delightful Chambre d’hote( sort of bed and breakfast). The camping ground is still closed so we had to find a place, but this week due to all the holidays many places are booked out.

It has been All delight. Great walk, charmingly decorated place, good food at a local restaurant and Wifi!

I am up to date. Zzzz

Last night was funny because our pilgrim from La Chamba turned up in just as bad a condition such that she seemed to be able to barely walk, yet she had completed 25 kms. We were surprised to see her and greeted her so warmly that Monsieur Jolly (real name!) thought she was our best friend and took her into our Petite Gîte, instead of the Grand Gîte. Karen felt so sorry for her that she offered up her lower bunk.

The parish Gîte.

We all shared a meal together, Cup of soup, bread and French cheese, peanuts, the pilgrims tinned mackerel and chocolate! How is that for a French meal? Another pilgrim had also arrived with his dog and a barrow. I got talking to him while I washed our coffee cups. He was a social worker who had been made redundant and had decided to walk from Strasbourg to Santiago with his dog to think about his next path. He has dreadlocks and a big plug in his ear but is the nicest kindest person. His name was Robin. We had a great discussion about the choices life offers and about Australia. Lots of French people want to go to New Zealand but they don’t know much about Australia. He was also concerned about Corinne (the pilgrim) and offered her medical help. He only walks as far as his dog wants to go. Then he stops. Anyway we all toddled off to bed and Corrine settled in and snored! She is a big girl, and will lose a lot of weight on this trip. We can’t fault her determination but we all felt concerned about her ability to walk. She could barely put her foot down.

Next morning we woke very early in order to get to our next town. Karen had not slept well due to Corinne’s snoring, I had only noticed it occasionally through the night. Corrine had told us Tuesday was also a holiday for Victory in Europe day as well as Thursday (Ascension Day). Our hopes of finding two coffee stops on the way were dashed!

We set off with rolling thunder on our heels all the way. Our first stop was an historic village of Montarcher where we were able to see a panoramic view of the Alps and mountains we were going to cross.

As we walked the thunder rolled ever closer, but we arrived in Estivareilles and joy of joys we found a boulangerie that sold not only coffee but some groceries. Our maxim of a ‘bird in the hand’ has proved useful because we thought we may not get any dinner due to the holiday. I carried the can of lentils, Karen the pasta, and Andy the can of ratatouille. This town had a memorial to the men who had died in the resistance. We have seen lots of wreaths laid at memorials but this is the first we have seen to the fighters in the resistance.

While having our coffee at the boulangerie it started to hail and rain. The woman was so sympathetic and good natured we waited till the worst had passed and we were kitted out.

This is Peter in all his glory looking like a post box or the hunchback of Notre Dame! Soon after we left and the rain abated such that we then stopped to remover rain gear. A passer by stopped to chat with us and then a farmer appeared at the farm across the road. He backed his tractor into the driveway, jumped out and opened the barn to let out the cows. They then followed the farmer, now back in his tractor, down the road. One farm dog bringing up the rear. We could here some mooing still and sure enough a lone cow appeared out the door of the barn. We joked she had been doing her nails or texting! But a little three legged black farm dog rushed up and barked and barked at her so she returned to the barn!

We followed the cows until they seemed to disappear but when we went over the hill I could see them in a paddock behind the forest. Later we saw more cows with rather ugly spiky rings in their noses. Apparently it stops them biting each other! They look like punks to me. Cows are so curious they follow us all the time.

It was a great walk through the forest and valleys till we arrived in Valprivas where we stayed in the community Gîte. It was a very modern building but as we were the only people there it felt a bit weird. We were reassured that if Corinne turned up she would be in her own space but she never did appear.

The bar was open here and the owner had budgies who were singing and twittering. The phone and internet coverage in these towns is pretty poor and even the bar didn’t have wifi so I have had to stock pile my posts.

Today was fantastic. We had a steep rough track out of town and then we levelled out into forest. The air was filled with the aroma of pine and then we reached the pass of the dead man. A rather ominous name.

we saw an old lady working her garden. She asked us if we were having a promenade!

We were not far from Ferréol and pushed on. What joy! This little hamlet was so neat and many of the homes are renovated but best of all there was an open restaurant!! Look at this wood pile and the window dressings which are so typical

We decided to lunch there and it was a find. I had my first frogs legs. They were the Plat de Jour, with fruit salad or cheese to follow.They were like chicken wings and similar flavour. Lots of bone like quail. The boys had a fondue and Karen had an omelette with potato galette. We were all delighted with the experience. The potato galette was, as they say in the cooking shows, the hero of the dish!

It wasn’t much further then to our Gîte in Chapelle. I was fascinated by the density of dandelions. They just cover the paddocks almost like they are cultivated.

This time we really are on the Chemin St Jacque and tonight we have met our pilgrim from the other night and a young guy from Strasbourg with a dog.

We have seen lots of signs for the Camino today and it seems like they must have a few who have got lost.

Today I photographed all the crosses I came across. One statue near the restaurant was of the Madonna and had the engraving ‘ protector of travellers’.

On arrival at Chappell we could hear singing and talking upstairs but not see anyone and it was quite strange. It put us in mind of the crazy hosteleria, Pablo, in the movie The Way.