fleetfootkath

Today we drove to Porto via Coimbra. Our mission was to visit the library at the University. It is renown for being one of the most beautiful in the world. Established in 1717 and called the book house it has the most lavish of baroque decorations, gold leaf embellishments and oak shelves because that wood does not attract insects! The books were chained to the shelves in some places too. The shelves themselves are all intricately decorated with Chinoiserie patterns with gold leaf from Brazil. What I found fascinating was the fact that they had bats living inside for nearly two centuries to eat the insects that might devour the books. The staff needed to cover the tables at night to protect the furniture from bat droppings! The tables were made from exotic timbers and very beautiful. We couldn’t take photos which was disappointing but I found this one on the Internet. We were in awe of the beauty.it was a place that cherished learning, wisdom and openness to new information.

Even more interesting was the academic prison where students were held for committing disciplinary offences. That puts a new slant on detention! The University was a guild and administered itself and used the prison till 1832.

The St Michael’s chapel was another elaborate though not large chapel with exquisite tiles and a huge organ in the Baroque style, with 2000 pipes. Dedicated to Our lady of the light, the patron of students, it is an impressive place.

The last part was the Palace which is now used for ceremonies. A well proportioned building with a great hall, formerly the throne room but now used for conferring doctorates or investiture if the new rector of the University and a private exam room and cloisters surrounded by tutorial rooms that are still used. We saw a class come out on Saturday.

The forecourt of the Palace and Library.

By now we are hungry and conscious that Bill was waiting in the car. He had been sleeping and anxious about leaving it as they have been robbed from a car in the past.

We stumbled upon a Japanese restaurant of all things where we could keep an eye on the car as well. The food was delicious and beautifully presented.

We were now ready for Porto. We got onto the freeway without too much trouble and Irene pushed a button and some how the GPS in the car came on in English and we were set! We arrived without any trouble despite the wet and found our accommodation which turned out to be the best we have had so far. Phew on my part because this was my booking. Irene and Bill went off to deposit the car and had a fair distance to cover but managed to find a train for the return and got off close to our apartment.

We are all thrilled. So far all the places have had their idiosyncrasies. Lisbon had , the smallest toilet room that we all sat on the loo side saddle. The next had power issues which shorted out if you had more than three things on. It also had a door that was incredibly difficult to open. I never mastered it! This place is gorgeous but has automatic lights that come on and off all the time. We are travelling well however and adapting all the time.

We had a slow start today. It was good not to rush and the weather is fine and warm. We started up the hill to the castle or rather the Convento de Cristo, a complex of chapels, cloisters and medieval castle showing the wealth and power of the Knights Templars. It had been founded in 1160 by the grand master of the Knights Templars and after they were banned by Pope Clement V in 1314 they were renamed by the King of Portugal as the Order of Christ and inherited all the Templars’ lands. It is a magnificent place and has the most fabulous Charola ( the Templars Church) which is a round chapel with ornate gilt and statues and paintings but no specific altar. There were wonderful chapels with Portuguese tiles, cloisters for washing, the bread cloister, the cloister of crows and the cemetery cloister. There are dormitories and we were fascinated to find a room that had a fire to provide heating to the monks’ cells. It must have been a furnace to work in because the place is huge and there were more than 80 monks cells. The original Templar castle had been extended and embellished in the manueline style which has ornate flourishes. We could have spent another hour exploring but the car needed to be shifted so we left to collect it and went out to see the aqueduto dos Pegões (aqueduct) which the Monks built to provide water to the castle. It was very impressive.

We returned to town to find a free car park this time and then explored the old Tomar visiting the oldest Synagogue in Portugal. It was tiny and when the Jews were banished the King , who actually had great respect for the Jewish people but for political reasons had to evict them from the county, chose to turn it into a prison in which no Jew should ever be incarcerated, then it became a wharehouse and eventually fell into disrepair. Most synagogues at the time were converted to churches or pulled down which is why this one is unique. There are only two Jewish families and not enough men for them to actively use it now but if they get the minimum of 10 it would function again as a Synagogue.

We then visited the matchbox collection museum. It is the biggest in the world and incredibly diverse with matchboxes from all over the world-even Australia. There were ones with the alphabet, animals, historic events, flags, national icons, and some decidedly politically incorrect saucy ones. It was quite fascinating. Opposite the matchbox museum was a studio of artists painting tiles and ceramics. They were all women and some had been painting for 33 years. They were very skilful and we recognised some tiles painted like those in the chapels in the Convento de Cristo, along with portraits and angels etc. Anne saw the sweetest and yet elegant, modern nativity scene but thought they would break if we tried to send them home. The painter I was talking with said the postage was too dear too because they were only €6.

Next was an exhibition of works by Pedro Valdez Cordoso in the Centre of Art and Image, Art Gallery of the Polytechnic Institute of Tomar. It was very odd work, quite provocative and themed around issues of sexuality and homosexuality and faces being masks. It was run by two students who were very eager to give us an English explanation. We might have been their only visitors!

Our next stop was the Municipal art gallery which was small but well set up. It had three floors of renowned Portuguese artists from the 50′ through to the 70′. There were two very large modern sculptures that I found very eye catching. By now we were walked out and returned to the apartment to meet Bill. He has come down with a cold and was feeling miserable so he had decided to rest.

It was quite late when we went to dinner at an Italian trattoria. Not having high expectations of the food we were very pleasantly surprised. Everything was delicious and the wine was good. To round off a great evening we happened on some juggler/mime comedians in the town square who were absolutely enchanting, amusing and witty. We laughed and clapped and felt so lucky to have stumbled on them.

We had been fascinated by the ladies downstairs in a shop who were making paper flowers and had been seeing the signs for the festival of trays. On further investigation we found out that this festival involves young people, dressed in white and red, wearing trays of bread and flowers on their heads that are topped with a symbol of the Holy Spirit. The streets are also decorated with flowers too and their are games and music in the park all in honour of the Holy Spirit. The whole community gets involved and there is a procession and fireworks as a finale. People come from all around and other countries to see and the city swells to over 100,000. It would be pumping then!

We have enjoyed the slower pace and despite Bill’s cold we are all feeling more rested.

Last night we had dinner with Fernando who is a doctor of Rheumatology in Lisbon. He is a friend of my brother-in-law Gary. He took us to a Fado Restaurant, the Adega Machado, just a few streets from our apartment. We were to meet him at 8.45 and the show would start at 9, but he didn’t arrive till closer to 10. He had texted to say he was held up at work. Fernando brought his charming daughters, Carlotta and Mathilde. We were starving and had only had a little bread and an aperitif. It is not uncommon for Portuguese, like the Spanish, to eat late. Before they arrived the show started and the music was entrancing. We couldn’t understand the words but the emotions were plain. They were full of longing and sadness. The guitars, a Portuguese which is shaped a little like a mandolin but not with a round back, a classical guitar and an acoustic, were so lyrical and soulful. The Fado singers move around the different restaurants and bars throughout the evening, so we had a rolling parade of different artists. They were all amazing with magic voices. Fernando and the girls even sang along sometimes. We just hummed!

The restaurant was more upmarket and the service, food and ambience were delightful. Fado is distinctly Portuguese and originated in the fishing communities and the poor of Lisbon, eventually becoming accepted across all classes. It is not like Flamenco music though equally as passionate but more yearning. The women traditionally wear black. We were glad the restaurant was close by. As we walked home we passed through throngs of young people, men in particular, all in drinking in the street. Music was thumping from small bars. The street outside was littered with discarded plastic cups and a few broken bottles. This explains hearing the garbage trucks early each morning because there is no litter any where later in the day. We stayed up till 1.00 am-very late for us!

We were leaving early next morning for the hire care office. Irene and Bill set their alarm for 6.30am but slept through it. We were well organised though and headed out to get our Uber. The young man had a Mercedes Benz but he took one look at our suitcases and said he didn’t think he could take them. After a little discussion, Bill ,the expert packer from years of camping, helped him get them all in the boot. It didn’t take long and we were soon at Europcar. We ended up with a Kia hatchback into which with great difficulty we managed to squeeze all the bags. Bill the champion packer again solved the problem. The young man who brought out the car pushed one seatback down and slid one case into that area. That wasn’t going to work because Anne and I would be squashed into two seats at the back. All this packing the boot and unpacking had caused a traffic jam of Europcars and so they didn’t set the TomTom and we had to move out quickly. I became chief navigator for Bill with my phone. We did really well and managed to get onto the freeway with only a couple of missed turns. We were heading to Fátima then onwards to Tomar.

I was curious about visiting Fátima because it is the holiest shrine in Portugal and when we arrived it was not at all what I expected. The development around the scene of the miracles rivals St Peter’s square in Rome! At one end of the oval area is the Basilica flanked by elegant collonards, a third of the way across is the original, restored building where the Virgin Mary appeared to the children, and at the opposite end is a massive modern church of the Holy Spirit, under the forecourt of which were numerous chapels and exhibition rooms. Bill came with us and was suitably impressed by the modern architecture. Even the candle lighting was massive- it was like a barbque! With flames curling up around the candles. No puny electric jobs here! Anne and I lit candles for her daughter Sophie who is extremely ill in hospital and my boys. Irene remained in the car thinking it would be some small little church. There were people on their knees moving the whole length of the oval towards the shrine. I thought it was a mat they were crawling along but it was hard marble. I had not expected such modern buildings or such an extensive complex.

It is a huge business as nearly every hotel is called by a Saint’s name or a religious term and there are numerous shops full of icons and rosaries and other religious paraphernalia. It makes Santiago Compostella look small. About 4 million people visit every year.

By now we were starving and retrieved our rolls bought at a servo along the way. This was our first really cheap meal for weeks and they were delicious. I took over the front seat and continued directing Bill to Tomar a medieval city established by the Knights Templar in 1147. We drove through the back roads and little villages to get there which was a nice change. We had a bit of a false entry into town when the GPS directed us to our destination up a side street into the pedestrian mall! We were all horrified , pedestrians and us. Irene got out to go and find where to collect the key to our AirBnB and a kind woman told Bill to drive up to the square about fifty metres away. I then went after Irene to tell her where we were parked. Apparently it is not uncommon for tourists to end up there! We found the apartment but there was no parking so Bill and I went in search of a suitable place which we found by the river. We could park until the next morning for €2.60. Bill and I got to see more of the town in our search and found it quite pleasing. After stocking up with brekky needs we wandered around until we stumbled on a wine bar where we had the most spectacular tapas which consisted of bread, olives, and two wooden boards loaded with meats and cheese. It was divine, filling and cost us €10 a head. It was so filling we didn’t need dinner. Irene didn’t want to leave the left over bread so I was prevailed upon to use the spacious pockets of my travel vest!

We saw our first Camino sign because this place would be on the route to Santiago if we had been walking from Lisbon. We returned home replete, tired and happy.

We got away on time today and caught a bus out to the newer precinct of East Lisbon passing the Bull Ring which has all sorts of events as well as bull fights. They don’t kill the bull here. The next place was where the World Expo 1998 occurred and where there are businesses and new apartments now. It was so different with very bold modern architecture and an incredible station that looks like trees on the roof.

After that we stopped at the Museu do Azulejo, the Tile Museum. What a spectacle. The tiles are amazing and their use as a wall covering quite exceptional. The artistic use of tiles in Portugal is quite unique.

We continued on to Belém where we visited the monastery of Jeronimos a quite fanciful building like a wedding cake. Inside was the tomb of Vasco Da Gama. After paying homage we hustled to the famous pastry shop where we queued for Portuguese tarts. This is supposed to be the place of their origin and they cook and sell over 10,000 a day!We decided to have take away after being in the queue and then told we could have gone to a table and been waited upon. They were warm and delicious and live up to their fame.

The weather was playing with us today as it fluctuated from sunny to rainy. Bill and I sat in the open top bus freezing and then drying out! I was glad I was wearing my puffy jacket! We moved on to the sculpture of Henry the Navigator, the monument to the discoveries, which was built to commemorate 500 years since his death. We have passed it a couple of times but today we ascended to the top for a panoramic view up the Tegus River and across Lisbon. The sculpted figures are beautiful and the whole thing conveys the sense of being at sea. Even the paving has the wavy tiles to simulate the sea.

Our next adventure was a train back to the city and then the underground to as close as possible. All went smoothly. When we emerged from the underground we were like moles in the sunlight not knowing where we were until we recognised a pastry shop we had seen on the first day. We were very close to home.

Outside our apartment was a football team from Brazil, we think, drinking and singing and kicking a soccer ball. The noise was deafening but at least tuneful. It seemed to go on for at least an hour or so but finally quiet by 7.00 pm. Relief.

We made another abortive attempt to get going early today and then we tried to get Bill a more comfortable and smart pair of shoes. Because of his sore foot he has been wearing bright blue runners that he wears to the gym. He feels they are too showy but they feel more comfortable than his dressier shoes for walking. Unfortunately the ones that fitted were not to his taste and were no more comfy. While Irene was trying to get her glasses fixed we came across the Sardine shop. It is decked out like a lolly shop!Anne and I bought our birthday year on a sardine can. What a natty off beat present and brilliant marketing!

We returned to our mission of seeing more of Lisbon. We still had hop on hop off bus options so we took it again with specific sites to visit in mind. We actually absorbed more this time and stopped off at the King Edward Vll Park. It has the most magnificent view to the river and two interesting sculptures. One a fountain that looked like it was breaking down, a memorial to the earth quake Lisbon suffered and then two columns commemorating their independence from the dictatorship.

As we wandered down the length of the park we came across a gracious building hosting a Fish and Flavours exposition supported by some of the best chefs in Lisbon. Everything was a gourmet delight. Naturally we decided to participate and we had fabulous pulpo( squid) salad, scallops, cod and polenta, grouper, cured salmon with lemon sorbet, chickpea and bream stew followed by Chocolate Banana cake, Berry éclair and New York Cheesecake with macerated berry topping. All small portions of course but so delicious. We tasted great wines and olive oil. Everyone was having a great time and the presentation was wonderful. In the end we had a taste of modern Portuguese food and wine from the top restaurants for €20 each. It seemed great value. Unfortunately Irene put her new reading glasses down somewhere and they disappeared. She was really upset as she only got them yesterday to replace her broken pair.

The weather has turned really cold and we are all feeling a bit miserable and longing for warmth.

Our next stop was the Estrela Basilica a beautiful marble church with an incredibly detailed nativity tableau that took five years to make. It is based in cork and has ceramic and paper maché figures. To be honest I didn’t know whether it was good or ghastly. It is so detailed it reminded me of a similar type of creation in glass I saw in France last year. Unparalleled workmanship but beauty questionable.

Next stop the Marine museum again. We visited yesterday but the surrounding area has so much to see and we were too late and ignorant yesterday. We switched to another route and then felt it was ground hog day because we seemed to go up and back so many times on the bus. We started to crack jokes about all the buses we had been on, their different configurations etc. It had turned really cold so we were grateful for the shelter at least. We searched for the funicular but it was out of action for some unknown reason! Walking back up the stairs to our area warmed us up but not quite enough. We found a nice reasonable place to eat and warm up. We are enjoying the different food. At restaurants they often put out olives , bread, cheeses and salami, like an antipasto, and you pay for what you eat. No free bread or olives here. They leave it to tempt you while you wait for your main dish.

Mary and Ross had warned us that there were long queues but we had no idea what an ordeal we would face. We queued to enter the airport. They just checked our luggage. We queued to check in and drop our luggage, we then queued to leave the country. Immigration was slow like a tortoise. People were close to missing planes because it took so long. Anne and I let a couple go through before us because there plane was taking off in 15 mins. In the end we also were rushing and once through we had a chance to go to the toilet and then we were boarding. I can’t see how duty free would do any business because no one had time to browse! Nearly three hours of standing waiting. Once on the plane it was a quick flight to Lisbon on TAP Air and despite leaving a little late we arrived close to our expected time. It was wet so we had a hard landing.

Going through immigration here and collecting luggage was a breeze and we were either in a lull or Sunday has fewer flights arriving. We were out and on our way to the taxis. Again Ross and Mary had told us to go up to arrivals to get a taxi because it was quicker which proved to be true. We stopped for money from a cash machine which kept rejecting my card. I wasn’t concerned because it had cancelled.

We found a taxi driver who happily gave us a potted commentary all the way to our apartment. Bill used his Spanish to converse and I used my few Euros to pay. We trundled up to our apartment and then struggled to open the door. We stood around putting in the code until we managed to open it- almost by fluke. Inside we were met by a steep staircase to the second floor. My heart sank until I remembered I have a backpack on wheels. I promptly took out the shoulder straps and was able to get the bag upstairs without straining. I bought it for just this situation but have never had to use it.

We fussed around putting on some washing, getting excited about wifi that works and then headed off to a supermarket for provisions. We stopped at a hole in the wall restaurant for dinner. It was very charming and my PORK loin was delicious. Our waitress was very pretty and transgender and bought us a complimentary sherry after our meals. All was merry till we wanted to pay and I couldn’t find my purse. I felt absolutely distressed until Irene found it in the groceries! My heart was pounding. As it was I had managed to get some money out but the machine had said I didn’t have enough for the original amount I requested. I was concerned the cancelled withdrawals had taken the money. Later after accessing my account I checked all the withdrawals and realised I had not been keeping a close enough eye on the balance. All the tipping in Morocco and my few purchases had eaten into the balance! All was fine. Anne however is not able to manage her card because she can’t get the sms messages on her phone.

As the evening wore on our once quiet street was now a party! The taxi driver told us the revellers go on till three in the morning and he was not exaggerating! I was too tired to stay awake so no problem.

Today we were on our own, a bit intimidating after being looked after at every turn by our guide. The streets of Marrakech beckoned so we went off in search of the Museum of Photography, and the Saadian Tombs. The tombs we found because they were close by! They were quite magnificent and a lovely quiet place amidst the bustling streets. The photography museum was more challenging. We became side tracked and each of us had different ideas of where to go. Bill was the only one with a working phone but even that was difficult. The street names were unintelligible or non existent but eventually we found our way around the souk and through some more upmarket shops to the museum. What an amazing place and fantastic photos. We discovered there was a terrace cafe from which we had a view over the city. In the lane a musician sang and played his oud(?) a type of guitar with three strings. He had a beautiful voice.We topped him as we passed.

We then had to find our way back to the Riad to meet our driver who was taking us to the YSL museum. We were crossing the Jemaa el-Fnaa hoping to see some snakes for Irene. Bill was busy observing where we were heading when he glanced out of the corner of his eye. He was just about to stand on a Cobra! Boy did he jump. We all laughed when one of the snake men slapped his forehead while looking at Bill. In hysterics we bustled on, all trying to avoid being run down by horse and carriages and looking for the way back.

We arrived successfully and then set off again for the museum. The fashion held here represents the themes that influenced YSL. It was a sensuous, immersive audiovisual experience. We returned to our Riad and said our final farewells to Ridouane and Rasheed. Those two men made our trip so memorable. Ridouane in particular was just wonderful. So vigilant and caring but lots of fun too.

He found a map of Morocco and marked our trip for us. It will be a wonderful momento.

Our hotel dining room is high above the city walls and from the terrace and windows we were able to see an expansive panorama of the sea and a beach. All night we had heard the sounds of the ocean, not realising we are quite literally at the waters edge. Essouria’s old Medina is built behind a port/fortification on a promontory surrounded by rocks and bordered on both sides with huge flat beaches. Unfortunately the sky was overcast so all was rather grey and dull.

We all ventured out independently for a change. It was so relaxing to wander this Medina. There was a more relaxed ambiance and the lanes were a little wider. Anne and I found our way to the port where masses of seagulls wheeled overhead. I noticed there was not the same amount of squawking our Pacific gulls make. These birds were huge and probably well fed judging by the size of the squid one was eating!

There were dozens of blue fishing boats tied together in little protected harbours or onshore receiving maintenance. We wondered how you would get out from the centre of the mass if that was your boat.

Anne and I continued down to the beach where kids were playing soccer and groups of women  were strolling around with small children in tow.

Returning to the Medina we found the shops and lanes were all bustling with people. Moroccan cafes are mostly for men, smoke filled and grubby, so sitting down for coffee is not quite as easy as we find in other countries. We found a place that was not trendy but there were a few other tourists so we didn’t feel too odd. The waiter was very pleasant and helpful, and though the toilet was clean the door didn’t lock and was minuscule. We stood guard for each other.

I loved the herbal/ pharmacy shops. They certainly had some interesting products. I love the fact that the Moroccans don’t care about juxtaposing different products. The butcher the fruiterer, and the dress shop.

Ridouane met us for lunch and we had fish tagine in a very authentic restaurant but decided to go to the Mega loft for dinner. This was a very trendy place serving modern Moroccan food. We recommended it to Ridouane for further groups. He was conscious that we had been eating traditional Moroccan food for two weeks and we had a running joke about Chickens. This is a common ingredient for tagines and Ridouane’s favourite. Ross said that if a chicken stopped laying eggs you put a lemon beside it and it knew that it was for the pot if it didn’t start laying again!

This quirky place really appealed and the food lived up to our expectations. Anne and I came across a holy man and his entourage. One of them had a pole onto which people were tying scarves and socks for healing. There was such a press even the locals were taking photos. There was a procession of musicians as well making a great clamour. It was quite exciting, though I did think it was an ideal time for pick pockets! No such calamity occurred.

Our final experience was the Hammam. Wow. Bill and Irene had a couples experience. Anne, Mary and I undressed to our skin and and were taken into a hot tiled room where we were sluiced with hot water, soaped then sluiced again. Next we were rubbed over with argon oil and told to turn over. I felt like a suckling pig in danger of falling of the spit! We were exfoliated vigorously, sluiced again, oiled again, then rubbed with sand and left to broil for ten minutes, then sluiced again. By now we were very warm, hearts pounding and with a final sluice we then went for a massage. Heaven is a Hammam. Mary promptly checked google for one in Melbourne. The price at home was about $300. Here we paid $75! But we do have them!

We were all very relaxed to say the least and Anne found subsequently that the argon oil did make her hair very soft, just like the sales lady told her!

Next stop Marrakech our last town.

This was a long drive today over the Tishka (or Difficult Pass) to Essouria.

This was the only way the caravans could cross from the plains and desert over the mountains. It was an arduous journey and in winter it was snow bound. Today they are widening the road so our journey was beset with road works. It was another winding road so I sat in the seat in the middle behind the driver to avoid feeling car sick. Rasheed our driver is fantastic. Very safe and a smooth driver. We have all felt very comfortable with him at the wheel. Leaving the valley on the east of the mountains.

Thé terrain changed from desert to quite lush green once over the pass. We stopped for a grilled bbq which was to be a special treat. The butcher minced the meat right in front of us and then we went next door to get it cooked. We took some photos but one of the men wanted Ridouane to order extra salads and food because we are tourists. He wanted us to have an authentic Moroccan experience and was offended by this fellows attitude. Ridouane was very angry with him and reported him to the manager. He was very upset with this man’s behaviour. Ridouane is always courteous and never tries to take advantage of us or let anyone else do that either. The meat we had was very tasty and different from our other meals.

after lunch we hit the road again, encountering almost endless roadworks. We were fascinated by the children sitting watching the big machinery. No health and safety here!

The road was another winding descent until we got to the bottom and it became desert or arid again. Our next stop was a brief bank visit in Marrakech before the argon oil cooperative which we arrived at quite late. The woman guide was very pleasant but spoke so fast and wasn’t really good at listening to our questions. After the brief tour we ended up in the shop where this super saleswoman told Anne she needed Argon oil for her hair! They also sell a miracle serum from Cactus flowers which we all needed according to her! Curiosity got the better of us and we bought the products and had them all shipped to Anne’s Mum in Australia. We are going to be looking amazing by Christmas.

Argon oil is quite rare and exclusive to Morocco. The tree bears nuts shaped like olives which are shelled and ground into a paste and then distilled. We tried this super delicious Nutella like paste made with almonds honey and argon oil. That was a definite winner.

From here we finally arrived in Essouria on the coast. What a shock. Desert, snow capped mountains, gorges, lush valleys and the sea all in one day. It was grey and cool when we arrived.

When we arrived at our hotel in the Medina Anne and I had a double bed and a trundle. I was not very happy and requested a new room. We were refused politely and we were too tired to argue. The room is lovely otherwise, though we can’t get the Internet in the room. We can cope.