Category: Uncategorized

It is raining today but cooler. Emma is wearing a sweater! We are all up early because the repairman is coming at 8 am to fix the roller blind that broke when Emma was winding it down the other day. While he is here Emma downloads a movie on the computer in my bedroom and also some French music on Spotify for me.

The rain pours down so we watch the movie before we go to lunch at an Italian restaurant. Italian is Emma’s pick. It is her last day too; tomorrow we both leave. She is heading to Bordeaux to visit with a girlfriend. I gave her my travel pass so the two last rides wouldn’t be wasted. I am heading off to Biarritz to fly to the UK.

The Italian restaurant was very good and the strawberry tiramisu for dessert absolutely luscious. Light as a feather. We retired to home and in the manner of this country relaxed for an hour or so before we engaged in a fierce battle in the horse race board game. The rain is fierce so it is a good way to pass the time. This game was epic with each person knocking the other off the board just as you start to get close to safety. Backwards and forwards the play went. The dice were so unpredictable you could be going well and then someone comes from behind and knocks you back to start. It was vigorous and rowdy and absolutely fun. Monique won in the end despite being way behind for a long time.

Emma and I have another go at the hula hoop Monique has. She can keep the hoop up and spinning for ages while we two are both pretty hopeless. We are starting to keep it spinning on our waists for a nanosecond longer, but both have a long way to go. Monique says it is good for your core muscles. I used to be able to do it when I was a kid but I can tell you it is not one of those things you never forget. Our laughing probably has a lot to do with our poor performances

Because it is our last dinner Monique has cooked steak and vegetables which are so tender and perfectly cooked rare but no blood. As a special treat she has bought Paris Brest and St Honore pastries for our dessert. They are also delicious and the fillings light and not overly rich despite their appearance.

It has been a relaxing and easy week with good friends. I am so lucky we met on the first Camino and kept in touch. They are partly the motivation for my rediscovered interest in learning French again. It has been well worth the effort.

I slept in today. It is very relaxing here and Monique and Michel are excellent relaxed hosts. I keep thinking it is like Queensland. The weather is sultry, very hot and humid. It is a great place to relax before I return home to Melbourne. I am speaking French still and enjoying learning the French way of life.

Michel and I went to the market this morning for fruit and then later to the patisserie for a Paris Brest, chocolate eclairs, triple choc slice and a Dax pistachio slice. All of which I was so busy ogling I didn’t take pictures!We also needed a fuse for the aircon in the car which we found at an AutoBarn type of place.

After we returned we had champagne aperitif, tomato salad with home grown tomatoes, followed by a scrumptious courgette and cheese flan, ravioli for Emma, chicken and potato tortilla, then cheese ( about 5 choices) and green salad, followed by the cakes and fresh fruit. All this was accompanied by fresh bread, and a good Bordeaux red. A great way to ensure a variety of food groups, and vitamins!

As it is really hot we head off to another beach today. About a half hour drive again to Vieux-Boucau-les Bains. This is much more of a beach town with camping, beachy tourist type shops, holiday letting and lots of parking. The beach is over the dunes again but a road and pedestrian path lead straight to it. The surf is much calmer today and the breeze off the water refreshing. We set up our spot on the beach and head for the water. The life guards use a whistle to get people’s attention and several times they make loudspeaker announcements about safety and a lost child. It was comforting and surprising to hear announcements in both English and French. It is a huge expense of beach backed by a saltwater lake. There are a lot of people on surfboards but not too many can stand and they don’t seem to sit in the water waiting for the right wave like at home, but just catch any white water they can. It isn’t great surf but there are some good curves every now and again. I note a couple of Australian surf brands rip curl and billabong. It is great watching people. This little guy in the rip curl onesy was too cute to miss.

I am impressed with the European body confidence. There are a few very big girls today in bikinis and lots of in between sizes. All ages and sizes wear bikinis which I like too. Everyone seems comfortable in their skin and there is a lot of it. People are sunbaking with not too many hats either. They change unselfconsciously at the beach as well. It makes Australians seem very coy.

We are home again by about 5:30 and it is soon time to eat again. Emma is always starving of course and I have just accepted this is the French way. It may not be as large as lunch but we still have the whole five courses. When I forget myself and think I will just have the fruit I am told to wait. There is more, beef stew with rice and potatoes followed by cheese, salad and dessert. It is not large but it is all delicious. I will need to start walking again soon!

Another relaxing day. I just say I am in recovery from all my walking. I am seriously impressed with Monique who runs every morning. She walks really fast too. I am inspired by her energy and she is a few years older than me. She used to run marathons and when she stopped at 50 she and Michel took up ballroom dancing. Michel takes amazing photos and he has created two picture books of their Via de la Plata Camino in 2015. Some of the photos are exceptional and we both agree it was a beautiful walk.

I wanted to take my friends for lunch so we went to a French restaurant( of course) which specialised in duck. I had asparagus for entree and it was the white one. I have never been that keen on the white but this was delicious. I could finally see why the Europeans go for it in such a big way. The accompanying prosciutto style meat was really good and the salad had bits of duck sprinkled through it. Michel, Emma and I had the duck roasted and served ‘rose’ (pink). It was the best duck I have ever eaten. Robert eat your heart out. It was succulent and tender and the skin was crisp. The gravy had foie gras in it and was so tasty. It was not too rich which is my usual complaint with duck. In Australia I think they would frown on the cooking and be wary of salmonella! Michel tells me they are not farmed but wild ducks.

Monique opted for a salad of goats cheese thinking it would be meat free. Alas there was a lot of Lardon scattered across the salad. Landon is pork, like bacon. We were not happy but she had not said specifically that she was a vegetarian ( which is not that common in France). Karen had always to specifically say no meat or fish! Despite this it was a delicious meal.

Afterwards we wandered around the shops and into Galaries Lafayette which was air conditioned. What a delight! Air conditioning is not found very much in France it seems to me. The sales are on and Monique was tempted to buy a couple of Tshirts and I succumbed to a cross season top, half fleece and half shirt. The store was very attractive and a bit like DJs at home.

As we wandered around, the clouds started to build and we were anxious to return to get the washing off the line. Along the way we found another book exchange box. I have seen many around the place and they seem to be used well, often near a bench or in a park.

We passed the historic mineral water fountain that has been here since Roman times. The water is very hot. Emma flicked her hand through but she had to be quick because it is boiling.

At breakfast I am enjoying drinking coffee from my super sized coffee cup (the size of a medium Chinese noodle Bowl!). It is very traditional. I have amused Michel and Monique by my penchant for Vegemite but no one is converted. Confiture is their choice and dark cherry is especially delicious.

Michel and I went shopping at the Grand Mall. The supermarket is amazing. The absolute best I have seen in France. It is like a huge Coles, liquorland and Kmart all in one building. The homewares were so attractive, even the dishwashing liquids were styled. The groceries were equally as attractive with fresh produce such as fish, meat and poultry well displayed. There is a whole separate section for Duck! They actually sell Pintade (guinea fowl). The wines were extensive but the special room for cases of wine from winemakers (Chateau this and that) was so impressive. The cases went to the ceiling and they are in a separate room from the individual wine bottles. Next door they have an equally extensive, music, movie, games, books, art materials, stationary in an equally attractive shop.

The mall was very attractive with lots of light and classy shops. They even had an H&M store and an excellent chocolatier. You can see why small villages are reducing or losing their amenities when people can drive to places like this easily. Michel still goes to a traditional independent Boucherie because the meat is excellent. We stopped in for some sausages for a barbecue today.

Emma slept in till nearly lunch time. I have discovered a delicious cheese that comes as a roll and Emma posed with it like advertising so I can try to get it at home. While we were finishing our meal she received news her dog had died. She was distraught. She just wanted to be alone. I can understand. She had this pet since she was a child.

Michel and Monique decided we would go to the beach at Messanges about 30 minutes away. We drove through one of the largest forests in Europe- farmed Pines and Spruce I think and lots of corn fields. The country is flat and looks rather like some parts of Australia. When we arrived at the beach we passed streams of cyclists and people heading to the beach too. Despite the numbers the beach was not crowded as it is really long and wide. The beach is over these large sand dunes and we walked down stairs to reach the beach.

Once we settled on a spot we headed into the water. The tide was out so it was a bit of a walk but the water was warm. The surf was very rough with large waves of white water and a strong undertow but a lot of fun. It was so good to be in the sea and warm water was a pleasant surprise. My previous experience had been in June in Spain and it was freezing. What a difference a month makes! It could have been any Aussie beach crowd. The lifesavers sat on a high chair righ in the waters edge and had a truck to cruise the beach and keep watch. Here you swim between the blue flags. The sea breeze was so refreshing. We left at four before the traffic got too bad. They have a fire watch tower to observe the forest which is behind the beach.

At home again Emma emerged for a bit of dinner and seemed more settled. We watched the news and dubbed movies. I find it very weird to look at the actors because their mouths don’t quite coincide with what they say. It is good practice and I am getting better at understanding. A lot of the movies are American and we also watch the old Zorro! That is hilarious and quickly spoken but of course you know the stories because they are so simple.

It is very relaxing here and I continue to practice my French. Emma and I only speak a little English. She will study English at University in Bordeaux from September.

Emma arrived this morning very early at 7.00 am. She has grown so tall since I saw her last and she is about to turn 18.

She is very tired after watching the football and partying till after 12 pm. After breakfast she heads off to bed until lunch time. The sky is rumbling with thunder and lightening and it soon starts to rain , then pour dramatically with ongoing thunder and lightening. It is a relief for the gardens and a break from the oppressive heat.

We are all content to laze around, though Monique is busy in the kitchen getting lunch prepared. As usual it is a grand occasion with melon and ham and tiny tomatoes, followed by an absolutely stunning mushroom tart, chicken and vegetables, cheese and salad, then dessert accompanied by fresh bread and Bordeaux red wine.

We retire to the terrace to play some board games. French games that are similar but also different. It was a lot of fun and a great way to pass the time on a very wet day. Eventually the sun returned and we took a walk past the thermal spa and the lake and people playing pétanque and on through some new suburbs. They are mostly individual homes with gardens but they are not as large as Australian homes or particularly different in design. They are simple and probably quite affordable.

We pass an arena where small cows are used for bull ‘fighting’. They just do the avoiding, twisting aside moves. No killing.it might bp

A beautiful quiet day. It is really hot here and they need rain. I accompany Michel to the boulangerie and the newsagent for our fresh bread, a daily task in France. Bread is so essential to all meals. We visit the oldest Church but cannot go inside. Even on the Sunday it is locked against thieves. There is a diligence about locking up and pulling down the shutters at home too because Michel and Monique have been burgled in the past. It reminds me how lucky I am to have the security I have at home.

I really am eating well here and am grateful not to have a large tea as well or I won’t fit my meagre wardrobe by the end of the week. Monique is a fantastic cook.

The neighbours cat is wandering restlessly around us, sitting on me then hopping off. As soon as she hears her owner’s car drive up she takes off. It is as if she knew they were coming today.

We are having a lazy day reading and waiting for the football tonight at 5.00 pm. It is a great game and I get excited too when France finally scores the first goal.

When France wins, the car horns start blaring so I am really glad not to be in Bordeaux. There would be no sleep there tonight going on the racket they made when France won its place in the finals! Here it is more subdued. The TV showed extraordinary crowds on the Champs Élysées and at Fan stadiums. Football of any code seems to unite people.

It is so nice to just stop for a bit after my weeks of travel.

Tomorrow Emma arrives. She is Michel and Monique’s grand-daughter.

14 th July St Paul -Dax

I slept soundly despite the party next door and the conversations on the street below my window and woke as usual about 6.30. I finished packing, grabbed some breakfast and then quietly left the house so I wouldn’t wake anyone. The bus stop was outside so it was going to be an easy ride. While I was waiting Astrid came out to say goodbye. She is so sweet but I had wanted her to sleep in for a change. I promised to let her know I had caught the train. I nearly forgot but sent a message before I arrived in Dax. She was happy to receive it.

The station is very grand and quite comfortable for waiting with lots of cafes and a lounge.

I was very touched to receive an email from Merel wishing me a good trip home and how I had been such a support to her during the week. She said she looked up to me which I found very generous but also amusing, seeing as she is so tall and has to bend down to hug me!

I arrived at the station and although early, the time went quickly and soon I was on the train. A double decker style and sitting beside a window with two young Aussies from Melbourne! The girl wanted to work on her proposal, for Uni I suppose, so we didn’t talk much. I felt excited to hear several young passengers chatting who were heading to St Jean Pied de Port to start their Caminos. Directly behind me a Swiss girl was advising a young Pilgrim to not get caught up in the rush for beds that many pilgrims do. She told her, many pilgrims get up really early- 3 or 4 am just to get to the next place and secure a bed. The Swiss girl told her that the towns will open a church or hall if necessary to give people a bed. She will not have to sleep in the street or the road! It is not good to be rushing and worrying. The Swiss girl had walked from Switzerland to Santiago de Compostella and reassured her about many issues she may encounter.

I arrived in Dax and was greeted warmly by Michel and we returned home to a sumptuous lunch made by Monique. We even had champagne as an aperitif! They are just the same gorgeous, kind, happy people and pleased my French has improved! We make plenty of conversation and though my tenses are still shaky when I talk we understand each other, most of the time. They make lunch the main meal so afterwards I felt really sleepy and we adjourned to chairs in the shade to read and rest. I fell asleep or dozed, with my mouth open no doubt. Fortunately no one took a photo! It was about 30C and very still.

Later we took a walk down by the lake and past the festivities for the evening celebrations for the 14 th July. We heard music and came across Michel’s saxophone teacher playing and accompanying a singer and keyboard player.

It was still so hot and when we returned it was time for a very light dinner. We watched some French TV which was fun because the music program I have seen at home. It is a good way to learn French words. Later a murder movie series a bit like Murder she wrote only with a Male lead. I found that harder to understand the French but it is good practice. I haven’t watched TV for weeks except for Football so it was fun.

I was having a shower before bed but there was no hot water! I was glad to cool down but it was a shock to the system! I didn’t stay awake long after the celebratory fireworks which I could hear exploding. We didn’t watch because Monique is afraid of them, even now as a grown woman.

I find I am half thinking in French and half English now so the blog might become unintelligible!

I had another bus adventure this morning. I took the 25 instead of the 4 and found it took me lots of different places I didn’t expect! Like the newer part of town and past the cemetery. I was sure I would be late to school but I was too nervous to get off before it got to some place familiar or I would be later still! It was quite interesting and though a bit nervous I new it’s final destination was within walking distance to school. In the end I was only 2 mins late.

We received our tests back and I was chuffed to get an A. It was a fun class today and I have been pleasantly surprised by the number of new words I have absorbed. Everyone says I have improved so it isn’t just me who thinks so.

After class Hannah (Finnish), Merel (Dutch) and I went over to the tourist office to take a wine tour we had booked. We were pleasantly surprised when four other students we knew turned up. Rene and Josef are Swiss ( German), and I had met them earlier in the week. Josef speaks excellent English but Rene doesn’t speak English at all. We have been bumping in to each other all week at school and got quite friendly. When I told them I was leaving tomorrow they were sorry to see me go and Josef said it was because I was fun to be around. How nice is that?

Merel and I have been having lunch together. She is young but we get on well and we have been supporting each other all week. She is staying for two months but living in an AirBnB on her own. Her landlord kindly invited her to join friends to watch the football at the pub and to dinner with other French friends. She has also found it a challenge being with only French speakers but her confidence is growing all the time and she is also socialising with the crowd from school, a much busier and more interesting social life than mine!

The wine tour was very interesting. and we got to taste 6 wines over all. Josef didn’t drink all his wine (he only drinks with food, very European), but Hannah, Merel and I did. They were delicious but what was so fascinating to me was how controlled wine making is in France. They can only plant the particular varieties that have been there for years. They can only make a specific amount. Excess wine must be given to the government for distilling into medical alcohol. They must mix two types of grapes. The appellations are so strictly controlled even to the fact they must blend the wines. I admire the pull of tradition but it must be hard to innovate! I felt my senses bristle at all the ‘musts’ , must do this, must not do that about winemaking. It certainly ensures consistency which is important but very different from Australia.

The grafted vine after frost decimated the vineyard last year.We all snoozed on the bus between Château de Cérons and Château d’Eck then we enjoyed the next lot of red wines. The last (their premium of course!) was our favourite. We had lots of conversations about wine, learning French, life etc and so we decided to go to dinner together afterwards. I had arranged to meet John, an Australian guy from Sydney, who I had met on the first day but he didn’t show even after 15 minutes so we all went off to find a restaurant. John had asked Valarie the social director, to find me because we started in the same class but he had decided to go into the next level up. After a week he was returning to my level. He had had a shock. His credit card had been defrauded several times to the amount of $5000. He was feeling rattled and thought he would not be able to continue his classes but the school encouraged him to stay.

I think he just wanted to have a bit of emotional support ( in English) but I had to rush back to class and he wanted to meet afterwards but I was going on the wine tour. Our arrangements were very rushed and in his distracted state I am not sure he really grasped that I was not continuing classes. I was not impressed with CommBank Visa, his bank. Having had two similar experiences recently that had been queried immediately by my credit card companies ( ANZ and AMEX) where the transactions were immediately halted and the cards cancelled, I could sympathise. Even though the whole process was a saga I was grateful for their vigilance. It isn’t always convenient to keep checking your transactions I guess but I only use my credit cards infrequently when travelling and rely on my travel card most of the time. He thought his card had been copied. I felt for him because that is a lot of money and most of his budget for Bordeaux and his stay in France.

We all went to la Place de Parliament and our group had ‘collected’ Andreo a young Italian who had been working in Amsterdam and had got talking to Merel and Rene. Rene speaks Italian so our dinner was so funny with French, English, Franglais, and Italian being the languages of communication. Rene translated the French into Italian, Andreo translated the English into Italian, and Merel, Hannah and I spoke French and English. Hannah speaks German too and would sometimes speak German with Rene. We had some very interesting and in depth conversations despite the lack of one common language, about politics in everyone’s countries, refugees, education, our families. It was a joyous evening really because we were all in great spirits. Rene and Merel had been to a concert by a Creole musician the night before beside the river which they said was attended by about 500 people. Merel had said it was so much fun because everyone was dancing and the atmosphere was great.

I was really sad to say good bye. Merel even welled up with tears and we had two hugs! Hannah also gave me a warm farewell such that I felt quite emotional. It has been a fantastic week despite the strain I felt initially. I have a few more email French speaking friends now!

I bought a local cake delicacy for Astrid and the family as a farewell gift

Canelés are rum cakes with vanilla custard inside.

I gave Alexandra the insect repellant I bought for the C2C because she seems to attract mozzies. Astrid had the bird on her shoulder and was repairing a fabric bracelet of Alexandra’s.

In the process of the conversation I grasped that Alexandra had had an incident at school which caused her to change schools and gave her nightmares. The bracelet was linked with a Saint and prayers for recovery. In the end it was actually 12.30 before I got to bed. My IPad was on English time an hour earlier!

In class today we had a test and a debate on the pros and cons of eating meat. It was such fun and I can see already an improvement in my language ability. Even though it is tiring, a few more weeks and I might be able to move up a level. It is exciting to see improvement after four days!

We all felt energised by the debate so lunch was on again after we booked our wine tour for Friday. This time Ana the Finnish woman from Helsinki joined us..

We all went our separate ways after another delightful lunch in Parliament Square. Merel is off to a concert with a fellow student. I almost feel envious that they are both here for much longer than me, now I can see progress.

I took myself off to the Cathedral of Saint André and walked up to the top of the bell tower for panoramic views of Bordeaux. It seemed tough climbing the steps after a three course lunch. The next stop was the Musée of Beaux Arts. I was excited to see two paintings by Henri Martin of the village Le Cirq-Popiere which we visited on the way from Le Puy to Cahors. I knew it instantly.

I decided to return home and thought I could catch the number 4 bus along the way. Unfortunately due to the roadworks the route has deviations. After two false stops and a trip over the rough footpath that sent me to my knees and dirtied my new White jeans(!) I decided to walk a few blocks back to where I usually catch the bus. I didn’t have to wait too long but was cross when I saw as we went along, I had passed near two stops from which I could have caught the bus. Extra walking in the heat was totally avoidable. I had confused the side of the street the bus would be on! I really could have walked the whole way.

Once home I set about booking my train ticket for Saturday. I am sorry to leave. This week has gone so fast and I am just beginning to feel comfortable (despite the bus muck up).

Tonight at dinner I got to roll the Grace dice. On each side of the dice there is a different form of grace. The kids role it and the family sings whatever grace appears before eating. It is done without any sense of self consciousness or stiffness. They are a very loving and caring family but not formal. Henri has set up a blow up pool in the backyard for the kids, he has been in it with them too. I think Astrid works hard and like most mums has very little personal time but never seems flustered or stressed. Everything is well organised and they spend time together. Virtually no TV but lots of toys and games. Ambroise is playing chess at seven but still wears a bib at the table to protect his clothes. It is a fascinating insight into one French Family. No yelling or fighting but still busy kids. Always dinner as a family. They could not be any more welcoming and helpful.

We had to do a presentation to class on the national dish of our countries, the best and the worst dishes. I had prepared a spiel on Vegemite, Roast Lamb and vegetables followed by Pavlova for dessert. I showed them laminations and BBQ sausage in bread. I also talked about Kangaroo, Emu and Barramundi which impressed everyone. Especially Timbault from Russia. I finished with the worst being Chiko Roll and also Vegemite because it is an acquired taste! My finale was the Vegemite jingle which amused and possible confused everyone! Thanks to Lyn, I have a tube of Vegemite and so I spread it on fresh baguette and gave everyone a taste test. About fifty percent liked it and fifty percent were unimpressed. I think it was quite a successful presentation. My French improves when I have time to prepare what I need to say, not surprising(!) but I was able to answer most questions in French too.

Following class I went for a celebratory lunch with Merel, my young Dutch friend. She is more competent in French but lacks confidence. We had a lovely lunch of Squid and risotto with chorizo but no wine because I had an individual class in the afternoon. The waiter was really slow coming so I had to pelt back to class at the opposite end of town arriving a couple of minutes late, all in a lather of perspiration. Marine my tutor is a gorgeous looking woman who seemed incredibly and uncannily familiar to me. I had not met her before I am sure.

After a halting start as I gathered my wits, it all went well and I think one on one sessions at home would be helpful. I was really boosted by her comments that my grasp of grammar was at least A2 level (I am actually in A1 here) so I ‘just’ (!) need to work on speaking and vocabulary. No surprise there. When I told her she looked familiar to me she said she had the same feeling about me. Quite weird. I feel very comfortable in France despite not speaking the language so I think I must have been here in a past life!?

Now I had some time to visit the Church of Notre Dame and light a candle for Peter. It has been 9 years today since he died. From all the kind thoughts I received he is still very present in all our lives. The church is quite unusual baroque style and had the most peaceful ambience. It was a beautiful interlude.

I decided that I just couldn’t bear another day with my mop of overgrown hair so I had booked and appointment at a salon around the corner from the school. The guy who took the booking had one of those long beards all the trendy’s are sporting back home. Anyway he was very pleasant and set me up with a delightful young woman who fortunately spoke quite good English, though I had prepared with Marine what to say. The hairdresser did a great job and the guy with the beard came over to tell me what great hair I had.

I felt revived and so I also lashed out at a little boutique ( good sale!) for some nice white jeans and a rather gorgeous striped linen top. I have been so restrained when there are sales galore and I am quite tired of my limited wardrobe, but in all honesty I really haven’t felt like shopping at all. It is really hot here and my dressier clothes ( two pair of non hiking pants and three smarter t shirts) are not cool enough.

I wandered around the city checking out little streets and found two arcades like the Royal Arcade in Melbourne.

I was also looking for a new butter knife for my hostess Astrid because the one she loaned me was still in the bag of bread when I dumped it after class. I found one at Galleries Lafayette that was red and white like her kitchen. I was served by the most attractive young French African guy with a green tinge on the top of his head. He was so tall ( well over 6 feet) I felt like a child beside him but he was so delightful and we had a good chat. He is a student working there over the summer. I just wanted to give him a big hug.

I arrived home just in time for dinner and then we were treated to a small concert by Hermine as she played the harp. I am convinced that the music is enchanted. The tone and reverberation was so beautiful. In contrast and in deference to my English connections, the family watched the soccer game between Croatia and England. I was tired but it would have been impolite to leave. It was quite exciting in the end though disappointing for England.

Hermine is at the end in the white striped shirt. On the left is Alexandra, the Spanish student and Henri the father. On the right is Rogatien, Astrid, the mother, and Ambroise. The older boys are away.

I still had homework to do and revise for a test the next day but I could only manage some of the exercises before I fell asleep. It was a great day. I really like this city.