14 th July St Paul -Dax
I slept soundly despite the party next door and the conversations on the street below my window and woke as usual about 6.30. I finished packing, grabbed some breakfast and then quietly left the house so I wouldn’t wake anyone. The bus stop was outside so it was going to be an easy ride. While I was waiting Astrid came out to say goodbye. She is so sweet but I had wanted her to sleep in for a change. I promised to let her know I had caught the train. I nearly forgot but sent a message before I arrived in Dax. She was happy to receive it.
The station is very grand and quite comfortable for waiting with lots of cafes and a lounge.
I was very touched to receive an email from Merel wishing me a good trip home and how I had been such a support to her during the week. She said she looked up to me which I found very generous but also amusing, seeing as she is so tall and has to bend down to hug me!
I arrived at the station and although early, the time went quickly and soon I was on the train. A double decker style and sitting beside a window with two young Aussies from Melbourne! The girl wanted to work on her proposal, for Uni I suppose, so we didn’t talk much. I felt excited to hear several young passengers chatting who were heading to St Jean Pied de Port to start their Caminos. Directly behind me a Swiss girl was advising a young Pilgrim to not get caught up in the rush for beds that many pilgrims do. She told her, many pilgrims get up really early- 3 or 4 am just to get to the next place and secure a bed. The Swiss girl told her that the towns will open a church or hall if necessary to give people a bed. She will not have to sleep in the street or the road! It is not good to be rushing and worrying. The Swiss girl had walked from Switzerland to Santiago de Compostella and reassured her about many issues she may encounter.
I arrived in Dax and was greeted warmly by Michel and we returned home to a sumptuous lunch made by Monique. We even had champagne as an aperitif! They are just the same gorgeous, kind, happy people and pleased my French has improved! We make plenty of conversation and though my tenses are still shaky when I talk we understand each other, most of the time. They make lunch the main meal so afterwards I felt really sleepy and we adjourned to chairs in the shade to read and rest. I fell asleep or dozed, with my mouth open no doubt. Fortunately no one took a photo! It was about 30C and very still. 
Later we took a walk down by the lake and past the festivities for the evening celebrations for the 14 th July. We heard music and came across Michel’s saxophone teacher playing and accompanying a singer and keyboard player. 

It was still so hot and when we returned it was time for a very light dinner. We watched some French TV which was fun because the music program I have seen at home. It is a good way to learn French words. Later a murder movie series a bit like Murder she wrote only with a Male lead. I found that harder to understand the French but it is good practice. I haven’t watched TV for weeks except for Football so it was fun.
I was having a shower before bed but there was no hot water! I was glad to cool down but it was a shock to the system! I didn’t stay awake long after the celebratory fireworks which I could hear exploding. We didn’t watch because Monique is afraid of them, even now as a grown woman.
I find I am half thinking in French and half English now so the blog might become unintelligible!





We all snoozed on the bus between Château de Cérons and Château d’Eck then we enjoyed the next lot of red wines. The last (their premium of course!) was our favourite. We had lots of conversations about wine, learning French, life etc and so we decided to go to dinner together afterwards. I had arranged to meet John, an Australian guy from Sydney, who I had met on the first day but he didn’t show even after 15 minutes so we all went off to find a restaurant. John had asked Valarie the social director, to find me because we started in the same class but he had decided to go into the next level up. After a week he was returning to my level. He had had a shock. His credit card had been defrauded several times to the amount of $5000. He was feeling rattled and thought he would not be able to continue his classes but the school encouraged him to stay.
Canelés are rum cakes with vanilla custard inside.
In the process of the conversation I grasped that Alexandra had had an incident at school which caused her to change schools and gave her nightmares. The bracelet was linked with a Saint and prayers for recovery. In the end it was actually 12.30 before I got to bed. My IPad was on English time an hour earlier!



The next stop was the Musée of Beaux Arts. I was excited to see two paintings by Henri Martin of the village Le Cirq-Popiere which we visited on the way from Le Puy to Cahors. I knew it instantly.









I felt revived and so I also lashed out at a little boutique ( good sale!) for some nice white jeans and a rather gorgeous striped linen top. I have been so restrained when there are sales galore and I am quite tired of my limited wardrobe, but in all honesty I really haven’t felt like shopping at all. It is really hot here and my dressier clothes ( two pair of non hiking pants and three smarter t shirts) are not cool enough.


I was also looking for a new butter knife for my hostess Astrid because the one she loaned me was still in the bag of bread when I dumped it after class. I found one at Galleries Lafayette that was red and white like her kitchen. I was served by the most attractive young French African guy with a green tinge on the top of his head. He was so tall ( well over 6 feet) I felt like a child beside him but he was so delightful and we had a good chat. He is a student working there over the summer. I just wanted to give him a big hug.













The rivers this close to the sea are subject to huge tides and I was amazed at the deep muddy sides. Looked more like a jungle river. The bridge across is long and impressive almost Like the Golden Gate in San Francisco.


















It was a lovely evening and good to see Susie who is still adjusting to the loss of her husband. It is only just two years now and still painful. People seem to expect you to ‘ get over ‘ grief like it is an illness but you never ‘ get over’ losing the love of your life. All you do is learn to adjust to life without them. Life becomes about learning who you are now as an individual. Susie remarked on how she could plant want she likes now without Ivor’s input but then it is those tussles that you miss too; Having someone with whom to talk things over. Karen’s Mum Sue is also making that adjustment after losing her husband twelve months ago. It is never easy.




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I have observed all the renovations on the house and wandered through the garden and the field with the van. It is a rather wild garden with lots of secret spots.
Andy used to farm pigs and sheep some time ago but now married to a vegetarian and wanting to be free to travel, he has given that up. The old shed is going to become his studio for painting when he finishes the brick wall, the patio and other concerns. Now they are retired they are both free to pursue other interests.


