Final day Retakunna to Port Arthur

Last night while we were recovering in the sun on the balcony, I had the last of my tube of pringles out for a salty nibble and Peter from Port Stephen’s wandered over with a small bottle of Jack Daniel’s. He asked if I would like some as a thank you for sharing the Fruit crumble the night before. I had no hesitation and received a tipple with great enthusiasm and gratitude!

We were amused by the number of walkers stretched out on the surrounding boardwalks in the sun having lazy naps. Peter used to work for the Department of fisheries in NSW and had some amazing stories to share. He has only recently retired and had been hiking in the Snowy mountains before coming down to the three capes with his friends. One had pulled out at the last minute which was the place I had taken. A charming guy with a great sense of humour and gentleness about him. He was so tall that i would need two or three steps to cover the same ground!

The ranger called us all for the evening talk which usually covered the next day‘s activity and our departure from Fortescue Bay to Port Arthur. There are two groups as the track out is too rough for a large bus. Sam was on the 2.00pm and I had decided I might need to take the whole day so elected for the 4.00 pm.

That night I ate everything except a couple of protein bars so the pack would be as light as possible. We were expecting a sunny day like yesterday ( about 18C with a cool breeze) and although the day was shorter (14 kms) the time was about the same, 6-7 hours due to the elevation and stairs. This hike might be three capes but I am sure it is 30,000 stairs! My knee had had a bit of a twinge the night before so I strapped it and my dodgy foot. I was very grateful for my walking sticks too. They really helped to take the pressure off the knees.

That night we actually played cards rather than go to bed. Good old UNO is easy to play and we invited Mark to join us. It turns out Sam is an expert after playing lots with her kids. mark was strategic but still neither of us could win a game. He left to go to bed and Adele the young daughter of the small family group took his place. Well she beat Sam and I just failed every hand. It was fun and probably revved us up because I didn’t sleep as well that night.

Up early and away quickly we entered an amazing change of forest. In this cold outcrop there was a rainforest with ferns, moss and large tree ferns. It was so different and hilly. Lots of steps!

As we walked through this magical forest I saw a moss covered log that I thought looked quite biblical. Was I hallucinating after all the steps?

I climbed and climbed and then we arrived at the Copper Throne or Once upon a time, apparently a few walkers picked up leeches here but I was spared that.

Any seat was a relief after cresting Mt Fortescue. Then the next view was Pillars of the South. Trying to capture the colour of the sea was beyond me.A deep sapphire blue always but never able to be replicated in my photos. The creamy white foam around the rocks below and the shallower turquoise surging and retreating all the time so that the sound of the sea was our constant companion. It is a soothing sound.

What I couldn’t understand was the absence of sea birds roosting in the cliffs. They were on the water but we barely saw any roosting on the cliffs. The forest was quiet too, with the grey strike thrush the most common sound I heard.

Finally I arrived at the turn off to Cape Hauy. I was weary after all the steps up and down to get here but I proceeded to take off my large pack and set off for the Candle Stick and the Totem Pole out at the end of the cape. A few returning walkers ( day trippers looked so fresh because they only walked up from Fortescue Bay an hour away) encouraged me with how fantastic it was. I looked out over the valley and groaned but never wavered.

Onwards I plodded and got hotter and hotter with the effort but finally reached the end where you can marvel at the challenge to climbers offered by the Candlestick and the Totem pole. Terrifying to me. As we looked over the sea below was boiling with a school of fish and a dolphin and seal having a good feed.

I stopped for lunch and managed to capture a little wren who was hopping around for crumbs. They dart so fast it was hard to get a good picture.

I hauled myself up and headed back up the stairs again. Just as I was almost back to the top I met three women who commented on my lipstick. ( By now my cheeks were as bright as my lips!) They thought it was extraordinary while I thought one of them was. She was wearing sequinned hot pants over tights, a cowboy hat and dangly earrings! They decided they all needed lipstick and we should have a group photo. Honestly I don’t know what is so odd about the fact I wear lipstick even when hiking. Without it I look like I am dying and it weighs nothing in your pocket.

I reached the top and was excited to see only another hour to go. But still steps!

Once I got to a flat downhill path I was flying! The beach at Fortescue Bay came into sight which gave me a further boost. Soon I was there and I had made it by 1.30 pm; 6 hrs for an older hiker was something of which to be proud. I met up with the early departure group but elected to change into my swimsuit and go for a swim. No dramatic plunge but a tentative wade in up to my neck and a quick breast stroke was all I could mange. It was crystal clear and very cold. FREEZING! It is the southern ocean after all. Little fish swam around me and I waded back to thigh height and let the water soothe my tired legs and feet. I had laid my hiking gear on the sand to dry as it was wringing wet. Good old merino, no smell! The sun dried it quite quickly and I recuperated for awhile before using my token for a shower and heading up to the others and the bus stop to be taken to Port Arthur.

It was a brief stop at Port Arthur to collect my suitcase, deposit my rubbish (you have to carry out all rubbish) and back on the bus to Hobart. We were all pretty dozy but detoured to drop off some hikers who were catching flights that night. I had elected to stay overnight and leave the next morning.

I felt pleased I had managed to keep up with everyone and carry a full pack. I was happy to have made a new friend and that I had done it on my own. Most people were surprised that I had come solo. I had time to relax and unwind from all the disappointment of my cancelled trip. It was the best medicine.