Saturday 24 th

Today we were in for a long drive out to the Kakheti region, often called the “cradle of wine”. We had great anticipation for tasting a few Georgian wines. The Georgians use a method of huge clay vats called Kvevri, which avoids additives and requires the whole grape to be squashed and skins to be left to ferment naturally. No sugar and about 6 months of cellaring then filtering out the wine. Those we have tasted have been very fruity and refreshing, especially as they serve them quite chilled.

Because this is the first trip in the Caucases area by our Tour organisers they decided (with our consultation) to combine three areas so we avoid a one night stop over in Telavi. This would bring us back late to Tbilisi but allow us a free day in Tbilisi. This meant we visited three significant churches, and in all honesty, I have found it hard to keep them all separate in my memory!

The first was to Bodbe (St George’s ) Monastery and the new St Nino’s Church. The Monastery has now become a nunnery. The churches are situated on a ridge overlooking the Alazani valley below, where cultivation of vineyards was prolific. In a country where everyone has their own grape vines and makes their own wines it would be hoped they export a lot! The country is so fertile that I am sure other crops would flourish.

The churches are surrounded by beautiful rose gardens. St George’s Cathedral and monastery founded in the 9th Century had its lands confiscated by the Russian Empire in 1837, then it was converted to a hospital by the Soviets in 1924, only returning to a monastery after independence in 1991. St Nino was buried inside. We were told it was good blessings for those who placed a cherished object on the grave. Of course Anne and I never pass up a chance to get a blessing. Our guide Nino placed her bracelet on top of the crypt. Anne put her sunglasses on it and I placed the wooden cross I brought from Australia.

After this delightful stop we moved to the House Museum of Prince Alexander Chavchavadze at Tsinandali. A gracious home dedicated to a prominent 19th Century Georgian aristocrat, poet, and military figure. Unfortunately his wife and several of his children were kidnapped and held for ransom. He borrowed money to rescue them and was then unable to repay the loans and lost his house. Despite this misfortune he is credited with promoting the 8000 year old heritage of Georgian wine making and also introducing new technology to the industry.

Here Young John, Monica a real wine buff, Nancy and I did a four wine tasting experience. Monica is very systematic, taking notes etc. I was chuffed to be able to sound intelligent when I recognised an aroma with which she and John concurred!

We were surprised while waiting to enter the house to see a huge party of youngsters all dressed like they were going to a wedding or a ball. The girls were in very high heels, the boys in suits. It turns out that graduation parties and fancy photos are a real ‘thing’ here. They all looked so pretty and handsome, but when the girl in red moved her straps on her shoes and I made a comment she said they were already hurting. We have all been there! Suffering for beauty.

We drove next door to our Winery lunch. Shumi Winery, a young place only 10 years old but gorgeous. Beautiful gardens. Rather whimsical with ponds and waterwheels but so pretty and quaint. We had a table under the tree and would have been happy to spend all afternoon here, but alas more stops to come.

Alaverdi Monastery is in the Alazani Valley. Badagoni’s “Alaverdi Tradition” line of wines is made in the historic 11th-century Alaverdi Monastery wine cellar, which was restored with Badagoni’s support in 2006. Badagoni also produces Qvevri wines in the same cellar, following the ancient Georgian winemaking tradition. Unfortunately it was under scaffolding and we were unable to see the cellars or even the church.

Our last stop was the Ikastola monastery and academy where the poet Rustavelli studied. It is under reconstruction also and not large. It was a whistle stop but we were amused to see the Qvevre cask in the ground of the room that was used for teaching. Apparently they used to dip into it through their classes! The clay casks add a unique flavour to the wines.

This was a huge day but it wasn’t over yet. We had a birthday dinner to celebrate. Beryl had made a fancy hat from birthday cards as a surprise for Bronwen whose birthday was today. It was a surprise and we had all signed a card and kept it a secret but we were worried Bronwen might decide to just go to bed when we returned. We arrived back to Tbilisi at about 9 pm and went to dinner at a place just up the road from our hotel. It was very quaint. I made a grand entrance by missing a step, twisting my ankle and falling almost flat on my face. Somehow I twisted and landed on my side. The shock on the face of the wait staff was worse than mine. I was helped up and was fine if a little shaken. No damage done. Bronwen was delighted and the singers sang happy birthday in Georgian.

A BIG day and we all fell into bed exhausted. No early starts tomorrow!