24 th San Christine de las casas

This morning we had an early start to visit a woman’s textile and weaving co-op in Zinacantán. The young woman who gave the demo was only 17! It was beautiful work and I succumbed again to temptation and bought a beautifully embroidered turquoise shawl, taco/tortilla warmer and small purse. They then showed the weaving method which was a narrow loom stretched by the weaver around her waist while kneeling. It takes a week to set up the fine warp. We were then invited to a toast of pox,(pronounced poche) an alcohol made from corn and sugar cane in 20 ml glasses. These toasts are part of the hospitality of the people. Pox is also used in Mayan rituals. Potent stuff! After browsing we were invited into the kitchen for fresh cooked tortillas and hot local coffee sweetened. Very tasty.

From here we moved across to Chamula and the church of Saint Juan. This is a very closed town that clings to its traditions and is very superstitious with a mix of Christian and nature/animist beliefs. No photos were allowed inside the church.

There were glass cabinets of many saints and rows of candles in front of them all. At one shrine the family was sacrificing a chicken! The whole place was alight with candles and people. There was a shaman conducting a ritual over a presumably sick child. The ceiling was painted with the moon and the sun and stars. Christ was also not in the centre of the alter but to the right of Saint Juan ( John the Baptist) who was in the centre. Most women were dressed in the traditional wrap skirts and blouses with a wide belt.

A priest is only called for baptisms and all other ceremonies are handled by the people. Even burials are simple affairs. A family just keeps burying people in the same grave and the colour of the cross determines who is in the grave. White cross for child or young person, green for adult and black for older people. They drape pine needles across the cross to purify the dead, so they can move to the next life as their spirit animal.

The town essentially governs itself. Police are not welcome. It is like a commune. As we were leaving we saw a group of Mayor Domos arriving. They were wearing the black mohair like shifts and big white cowboy hats. They were followed by a posse of men(want -to-bes). It looked like a showdown at the OK corral! No photos or they smash your camera.

This was fascinating. The people are fighting for equal rights but have chosen this exclusive way to maintain their rituals and society.

Returning to San Cristobal Peter Anne and I decided to grab a pastry and coffee from a French/ Mexican patisserie Friandes which was absolutely delicious. Best Escargot I have had for a long time.

Our next goal was the Jade museum but we just seemed to go round in circles and eventually ended up at Na Bolorn a museum of indigenous culture of the Lacandon Maya mountain people.

The house had been planned as a convent or other religious place but was bought by Frans Blorn as a residence and research centre for studying the Mayan Culture.https://nabolom.org/

By now we were feeling a little tired and headed back to the hotel. Pete’s knee was starting to twinge and Anne and I wanted to see the view from the hill over town (284 stairs)and I wanted a piece of amber.

Anne and I met up with Peter for dinner and the town was buzzing ( because it was Palm Sunday?). The rotunda was full of music.

We chose a pizza place which made the best huge pizzas that Pete ended up sharing with Karen and Amy. Anne and I opted for hamburgers and salad. Our salad was so big we shared that with Amy and Karen too. Just when Peter was complimenting me on my improved Spanish the waiter arrived with Sangria which we had discussed having but decided to just get plain wine. We said it wasn’t what we wanted – no fruit just plain wine. Translation was missed and he took it away. Peter said he would probably strain it and that is what he did! We laughed as it was pleasant on a hot night but not what we thought we ordered.

After dinner we watched a concert for a while but needed to be back.

The next morning we had to leave by 4.am to avoid proposed road blocks on our route. Farewell San christabal we have loved the vibe in this town. Old mixed with new, beauty and good food. Narrow streets colourful houses, interesting street art.