21st March Oaxaca

Anne and I had a sleep in and went to breakfast with all the Mexicans. Peak hour at 9.00am. A different experience to our usual early starts.

We decided to go to the Botanical Gardens though we had low expectations after a brief glimpse through the gate the day before. What a wonderful surprise it turned out to be. So much interesting information about Oaxaca and the plants. This state is one of the most biologically diverse in the world. It was here that wild maize was domesticated by the women and began to be developed into the many different types of corn today. Also the origin of cochineal which provides red pigments for dyeing food and clothes. We got to squash a few cochineal bugs!

Cochineal bugs provide red colour. Third most lucrative product after silver and gold in the 17 th and 18 th centuries.

Lunch was taken at a groovy little place called Boulenc Pan. We had to walk a fair few blocks but the city revealed more interesting buildings housing, art galleries, artisan clothing and goods, street art or cute bars. The food was contemporary with Mexican twist and satisfying. Peter couldn’t finish his baguette and without being asked they packed the uneaten and untouched remains into a takeaway box. We didn’t really want it but that was a good service. We gave it to a woman and child who were begging on the street.

Anne and I have been searching for painted hats we saw in Puebla but none have been as elegant. He who hesitates misses out! They were hand painted and gorgeous at a good price but because they were stiff we thought too awkward to continue with Dah! We could post them.

After lunch we visited the textile museum and while its exhibit was not of local indigenous weaving as we expected. There was a private collection of exquisite Japanese blue kimonos and jackets which had been donated by expat Americans who had settled here.

The other exhibits were of a local contemporary artist. Beautiful abstract work by Patricia Alvarez

We headed home for a swim and returned for dinner. The streets were thronged with locals and while searching for a silver jewellery store for Anne we discovered so many charming places. This city just keeps giving. It is the gourmet centre of Mexico and there are many places experimenting with developing modern interpretations of Mexican food as well as fusion of other cultures. We ended up at Cobarde roof top restaurant where the ambience was wonderful and the food was a fusion of Mexican and Asian. We only wanted light so Anne had Broccoli with honeycombe which was delicious and both Peter and I had Chicken Pho plus meszcatel cocktails.