3 rd June Berlin-Glienicker and Potsdam

Wendy and I are waking at 6 and talking so much we are always in a rush just before Katharina is due. Can you believe it? Me talk too much, never. Katharina is always prompt too. Katharina arrived at 10 as arranged to take us into Berlin but she said there was a major demonstration by cyclists ( 90,000!) and all the roads are blocked so we decide to visit the Glienicker Schloss and gardens and Peacock Island. This is where Prince Carl of Prussia spent his summer and the castle was built in the manner of a Roman villa with lovely views over the lake.

Peacock island is where a white Castle was built by King Willhelm the II for his mistress, who was reputed to be only 13! The strange thing is it looks like white marble but is actually painted wood! It doesn’t seem very solid, more like a movie set. The mistress liked peacocks so there are many and they wander freely. They actually keep water buffalo here in the summer to keep the grass down in the wetlands.

There is also a miniature frigate donated by the English King George to Willhelm which is housed in a boat shed that has an immaculate thatched roof. The first frigate was let to rot! I can’t imagine why he was given another after that. One upmanship perhaps as it was a replica of the ship that won a battle against Napoleon.

The grounds are so extensive on the island and around the Schloss that it is really hard to grasp such wild woods so close to Berlin. Katharina says there are wild boar in the parks and they have chased her little dog Theo. In the park while we were walking to the Peacock island we heard the most musical bells from the little church that is hidden in the forest. The bells sounded like a music box. Katharina said the little church only takes about 100 people and at Christmas you have to book a seat! We also saw across the lake the Sacrow church. The tower was part of the Berlin Wall.

We decided to catch the bus back to the car and Katharina was going to take us to Sansouci, another summer palace in Potsdam for another King, Friedrich who never went to Berlin where his wife lived. He stayed in the summer palace or in winter at his Potsdam palace. Apparently his father had locked him up until he consented to marry. Needless to say he had no children! As the bus zoomed along Wendy said isn’t that were we left the car? Katharina replied no further, then as we were about to head over the bridge we realised Wendy was correct. It was the same mistake Wendy and I made the previous day! Katharina was a bit embarrassed but we though it was a huge joke.

Katharina dropped us near Sansouci because she hates to leave her dog Theo for too long. He goes everywhere with her and frets when she is away. Katharina rescued him from Greece after we walked the Via de la Plata in 2014 and it was love at first site on her part. He has returned her devotion in bucket loads and is such a quiet little fellow.

Sansouci has the most exotic rooms with much baroque decoration. Friedrich was a great lover of art and nature and all the decorations and paintings reflect this theme. The grounds are tiered with grapevines and fig trees in glass cabinets. He had so many parties he had to build another place to house his guests! The area had 40 windmills to grind grain for the king’s army but there is only one left now. After we had strolled around the gardens we caught the bus into Potsdam itself and then the tram back home. While we had time we crossed the little bridge near our place and went up to look at Schloss Babelsberg. We see the machine building( power plant for the castle) from our window and it looks like a mini castle too.

Then it was a scramble for us to get refreshed (I have hardly any clothes) before we went off to Wannsee and the Boothaus, a casual eatery right on the water where Katharina has a berth for the boat she is restoring and where she cleans the sailing school. It is like being on Sydney harbour in one of the little coves. Boat berths are at such a premium she was offered €10,000 for hers. While her boat is out of the water having its hull repaired she is letting the space. I was a bit surprised to see water lilies around the boats. I keep thinking it is salt water. On the opposite bank of the lake is a beach and beach Pavillion. It is huge and has been there for a very long time.

Theo comes to the restaurant( dogs are allowed inside too) and sits at our feet. When we finish our very delicious meal we realise he has disappeared. Everyone knows him and nobody seems concerned except for Wendy and I. It turns out he got sick of waiting and took off to the car! Katharina was so impressed he knew which car. She lives near here so it is his ‘patch’. Another big day. Wendy leaves tomorrow so we need to be up early as Katharina is kindly taking her to Tegal Airport.

I am going to miss Wendy. We had a lot of fun together and really got to know each other better.

2nd June Berlin

Today Katharina took Wendy and I into the heart of Berlin. We are staying beside the Wannsee lake near the Glienicker Bridge, famous for being the point where people where exchanged between East and West Berlin and divided by the Wall. The bridge has featured in lots of spy movies. We are within a spit of three Schloss and in a very gracious part of Berlin. Over the bridge you enter Potsdam.

After cruising the main Strasse we visited KADEWE department store to look at the food section with so much exotic and beautifully displayed ( expensive) produce. We checked the wine for Australian labels and found a few. I believe the Australian Wine industry has had a big promotional exhibition recently( according to the German friends we met on the way from Le Puy).

Before we parted company we had a beer in the beer bar. Katharina is renown for saying I am German I drink beer! Check out the pretzels and the bar man pouring all the beers. They need to settle a bit before he gives it to you after a top up.We wandered into an area near Alexandra Platz in search of Sushi but had to settle for Thai.( Guess who is missing Australian variety?) Katharina then left us to explore on our own and as Wendy had a couple of days under her belt we managed to cover most of the important places before catching the train home. I saw this as an orientation day for me. There are lots of museums and art galleries here so we need to be selective.

The weather was so humid everything is hazy and while I am impressed by the symmetry of the buildings and the grand strasses ( boulevards) I can’t help finding all the statues on the roof lines a bit strange, like cake decorations! Everything seems so grey and as a lot of Berlin was rebuilt after the war, especially in the East there is an ugly utilitarian feel to it.

Some of the platz( plazas) seem just empty and so many streets have weeds and overgrown grass. The city is gifted with beautiful parks but once again everything seems shabby and untidy. I feel it must be a reaction resulting from 6 weeks in France where even dead bushes are topiaried!

The official buildings are very imposing-really huge. The Reischstag, the Cathedral, the Brandenburg Tor but I am really fascinated by the history and the impact of the wall. Katharina told us she helped a family escape when she was a young student by bringing them out hidden in her combi, but her boyfriend a student doctor at the time, got caught and spent three years in prison before his parents were able to pay for him to be released. It was a time when you could get a pass to drive through East Berlin and the guards could not ask you to open the car, just look in. Afterwards she was told by the police she could never drive through again because the Stasi would arrest her. She had to fly out of Berlin if she was to leave, which was difficult as her parents were living in the south of Germany.

Wendy and I returned home but missed our bus stop which is before the Schloss and had to leap off before the bridge and rush back so we would be ready for dinner with Katharina. Even with the orientation I still can’t get a sense of direction in Berlin.

1st June Toulouse to Berlin

I left the hostel quite early so I could breakfast at leisure in the Capitole Square. I weighed up the idea of shopping for souvenirs and carting them to the airport or just buying at the airport and decided on the latter. I wanted to speak with the Easyjet people to get a refund on the extra luggage the App had tricked me into buying so I wanted to have plenty of time.

After checking with the Tourist office about how to get to the airport and the time it takes I opted for the metro and tram. Time 40 minutes, 1 change. The tourist office woman was frighteningly efficient. She was only young but spoke fast ( fortunately in English) and seemed to be working on a system of answer questions, move on!

I went into the metro station and couldn’t work out how much it would cost. A very nice French Vietnamese metro employee, who was happy to speak English, explained the cost €1.80(!), 1 ticket the whole way and take the platform on the right side. Easy and so cheap, Melbourne take note. I had three stops on the train, got out at the tram terminus and Voila, I was on my way. The tram takes you through new Toulouse out to the aeroplane/science district. Toulouse is where the Concord was and Airbus is built plus they have a big interest in space research.

The airport was a trifle confusing because I couldn’t see any shops or restaurants but that would have to come after my Easyjet discussion. There was no signage obvious so I started at the checkin counter, was directed to the customer service desk, who pleasantly gave me a page with numbers to call! I found a quiet spot and rang the UK. At first there was no joy, they passed me to someone else, no refund. I told them I was aware of the conditions of purchase but the Eazyjet App had not acknowledged my original baggage purchase and expected me to add a hold luggage before I could proceed and had failed to retain my boarding pass as well. When I got another ‘we regret’ I explained that I was not happy and in fact was very annoyed and felt ripped off. I insisted on speaking to a supervisor. Amazingly they went to a supervisor and explained about the app and in a flash I had my refund, instantly paid into my account. I was so pleased. I presume there is a bug in the App and I am not the first person to get caught. I was grateful but explained I would not be using the App again. We were all happy campers.

Now it was time to explore the airport and find some shops. I bought some pâtes, biscuits and small confiture flavoured with violet, the signature flower of Toulouse.

I decided to buy a book to read and they even had a small selection of English novels. I was really chuffed to see Jane Harper’s new novel in French. I felt a surge of Australian pride. Then it was just get rid of the bag and go to the boarding gate. After going through immigration where they asked me where I was going and checked the passport which is a new experience since last time I travelled in Europe I hit the security. Wow, there were so many lines you could go through it was so quick. None of this paltry two lines we have at Melbourne Airport. Then shops and basically nothing much else near the boarding gate. It seems like there was very little if any air conditioning and it was stifling. When we were boarding the staff moved us from one side of a barrier to another. It was like milling cattle at the sale yards! Finally we left the terminal for the plane and fresh air as we walked across the tarmac!

The flight had been 15 minutes late and seemed uneventful until we flew into a massive thunderstorm near Berlin. There was a group of teenagers who were squealing as the plane pitched and bounced through the clouds. It was rather funny until we actually got to Berlin and the pilot said we would need to go round till the storm eased. Then he attempted to land and just as we were about to touch down he pulled us up again (more squealing) and we went around once more. He announced that the side winds were too dangerous so we would wait a bit and we may be diverted to Tegal! All the time I am thinking about Katharina and Wendy who were at Schonfeld waiting for me. On the second attempt we landed but then we were left on the tarmac for over two hours before we could disembark. Wendy had texted to say that the original terminal had sustained a massive hail storm and was flooded and everyone had been told to go to Terminal A instead. My companions on the plane. You really get to know people after a few hours together. Christie is a paramedic in the army.

The pilot announced no staff were allowed on the airfield because of lightening and dangerous rain so no luggage could be unloaded or stairs bought to the plane. Eventually Buses arrived to transport us to the terminal and then it was chaos waiting for luggage. Our flight had dropped off the arrivals board as 19 others had arrived over the time! I wandered from carousel to carousel looking and after an hour I saw the group of guys on my flight who were here for a bucks weekend, starting to pick up their luggage. I rushed over to see with great relief, my bag going past. Chaos at the baggage pick up!

I made my way into the terminal and Wendy and Katharina were there. All up they had been waiting for four hours! Instead of 6 pm it was 10 pm and we were all glad to be out of there.

It was too late for dinner or shopping so we just stopped at a servo and got some essentials and beer. We are in Germany after all! Katharina had booked a lovely apartment close to where she lives which is on the outskirts of Berlin, on the Wannsee (lake). It is beautifully situated and in a very historic area. The Berlin Wall went right past the house.

Wendy has been here for a couple of days already and Katharina has been showing her around and how to access the public transport. It is very green and suburban with many lovely homes and apartments facing the water and several Schloss(Castles) close by. So exploring Berlin begins!

29 th May Cahors

Today was a lazy start; our rest day before leaving for Toulouse tomorrow. The weather is wet still but supposed to clear as we went looking for the Valenté bridge, an iconic symbol of Cahors. It has three towers and crosses the Lot. It is the pilgrims exit for those heading onwards to Santiago.

check out the devil on the bridge! It was a symbol of overcoming the problems the devil created when building the bridge.

While observing the bridge we saw pilgrims crossing and climbing the cliff opposite. It is a funny feeling knowing we aren’t going to be joining them. One or two had red rain covers over their backpacks and stood out amongst the greenery. A group had reached the top and paused to look back ( and catch their breath if it is their first day?)

The area is famous for its red wines( which we have been enjoying over the past few days) and so the river bank has a grove of vines planted ornamentally. To get to the bridge we had walked through a garden of white roses that were bruised from the rain last night but exuded the most powerful fragrance.

We needed to buy our train tickets for Toulouse and check the drivers are not on strike. While waiting I saw a most impressive device. A phone / iPad charger powered by pedals!

All the stations have free charging stations.

Next it was the old city walls where I saw a monkey tree. What an odd plant. It has spiky, leathery leaves on long branches. We visited St Etiennes Cathedral which is unusual in design with two Cupolas. Once inside it feels more fortress than Church which apparently was the intention! Bishop power! It is said to have a religious relic, the cap from the crucifiction of Christ. Relics were big business in medieval times.

While we explored the church an organist was practising for a concert at the end of the week. It is wonderful listening to live music and the acoustics were excellent.

After a coffee break Peter and I went off to the pilgrims office for our final stamp and saw a Camino gear place nearby. I decided to see about a poncho and was delighted to find an excellent version that fitted and was not too big.

I wish I had seen one earlier but I may need it for the coast to coast in a couple of weeks. For the next hike anyway!

A secret garden in the old section of town.

We returned home for lunch and as it had fined up we were sitting on the balcony when the three Australians we met in Conques walked past. We haven’t seen them all week since we left Conques. Walking is funny like that. You see people for days then not for ages and then bam they are in the same place.

While the others went off in various directions I decided a quiet time would be more advantageous and enjoyed the chance to talk to cousin Tracy and husband John who have just completed their Camino to Santiago de Compostella. The full walk of close to 800 kms too.

28 th May St Cirq-Lapopie to Cahors 25 kms.

Our saved bread and meagre breakfast provisions were all we had to get us going this morning. 24/7 just doesn’t exist in France in the country. We had a weather forecast for rain so we wanted to get a move on. The route was mainly roads to begin with and my right foot hates roads. Then the rain came, gently at first but soon it was heavy and as we were on the ridge sometimes we were walking through mist.

The little town we were hoping would have a bar had nothing so it was onward. We sheltered at one bus stop and ate mars bars and snickers! There wasn’t even a seat. By now I am feeling persecuted! But when the going gets tough the tough get going and we pushed on. I sang lots of motivating ditties to distract me from my tender foot.We had a brief stop at the beginning of the path alongside the Lot. At least it was flat. The rain eased off but still it was wet.

The path was rather charming, almost tunnel like until we hit some farmed fields. Then it turned to clay and we were slipping and sliding. Andy, Karen and I nearly came to grief but had jumped into the muddy field. It was Peter who took a fall. He fell into undergrowth on the river side (with stinging nettles) and was too afraid to move for fear of sliding into the river. His pack was too hard to get off with the poncho on.

We were a little ahead by now and decided to wait for him on a pontoon beside the path. He seemed to be taking ages so we were about to ring him and were getting ready to go back when a French couple, fellow walkers who we had passed and who had passed us a couple of times, walked by and told us he was coming. He emerged from the undergrowth with muddy bottom and knees, muddy rose in his stick but fortunately no other damage. The couple had pulled him up. He had thought if he moved too much he would slip down to the river which was very close to the path.

Glad to see him okay we moved off again. We saw a charming small village on the opposite side of the river but no way to get to it. La Roque de Arc

There was nothing on our path but shrubs and farmland. We came across a boat lock and a boat owner trying to get his boat up river. He sounded like a tourist who was not sure what to do to get his boat up stream. There are lots of locks on the Lot and the last one we noticed was quite tricky looking. They are usually at the end of a weir but this one was not completely separated from the river. A bit of skill required to keep your craft in that lock!

Our path continued into more overgrown shrubs and it began to feel unrelenting. Finally we arrived at Cahors and hit the first bar we could find for lunch, just before it closed. I think we looked so desperate the guy was too kind to refuse us. We made it easy by having the menu of the day and each plate was practically licked clean. Restored, almost, we asked some women to photograph us with the church in the background. Andy had wanted to go to some bridge which is iconic in Cahors but Peter, Karen and I were over walking with our packs. 7 hours walking today with only the briefest of stops and hardly any food.

It was nobody’s fault. The little towns are close but the shopping is done in different, larger places by car! There are just not many places open for purchasing provisions in these little villages, especially on Saturday and Sunday and often even Mondays.

We made it to Cahors and we are all okay, a little foot sore, over carrying our tents but happy and proud of ourselves. This was a tough walk of nearly 800 kms which has challenged us but provided fantastic opportunities to see different parts of France, away from the usual tourist haunts.

It will seem strange not hitting the road again in a day or so.

27 th May Larganol to St Circ-Lapopie 20 kms

We started the day with no real breakfast, just a couple of small muesli bars and some fresh cherries straight from the tree. The camp ground had no breakfast food till too late and we had no opportunity to get anything coming to, or leaving Larganol. The old Mill pond and house.

Despite our meagre breakfast we made good time and passed some quaint villages on the Lot riverside with houses abutting the sandstone cliffs. At one stage we stopped to rest and have a few lollies and this lovely lady came up from her garden to warn us that there was a serious weather front coming our way and that there had been huge hail stones in the mountains and a child had died. She wanted us to be careful. I have been so impressed with country French people. They are so kind and friendly and helpful. Many have gone out of their way to assist us.

The sky was looking overcast and threatening but still no rain. We hustled ourselves and finally reached St Circ about 11.00 where we descended upon the first place that was open for coffee and whatever they could give us. We had two baskets of bread with butter and jam because that was all they had! We proceeded up (always up!) to the village of St Circ.

It is delightfully quaint despite being quite touristy and somewhat like Conque yet more arty. We found the tourist office and the lady was so pleasant and happy to mind our packs while we explored the town and the Chemin de Halage (a tow path). Our campsite is out of town so we needed to dump the packs.

The tow path was found after a 2.5km walk down a steep hill and along the canal to where they have undercut the limestone cliffs so they could pull the barges along with merchandise when canals were used commercially.

The town is very pretty and has the remains of a fort and was a walled city originally.

After lunch we took the Chemin de Brigands path( glorified goat track) UP above the town to the ridge where we then walked to our camping ground but we are staying in a chalet. The chalet was the LAST One UP the hill of course! It is very nice and the pool is open and heated (a bit) but I could manage to swim and it was refreshing after sweating up two hills today. Our chalet is very compact but comfy and has a great view. We are eating outside despite threatening thunder and the odd rain drops. We cooked our own meal and it was simple pasta but delicious. We reserved the extra bread from lunch at the restaurant so we would have something for breakfast! It is Sunday and there are no food shops in the village.

It has been an interesting day.

26 th May Gréalou to Larganol 14 kms

We left Gréalou about 7.30 after breakfast which Esther had left ready for all of us. We washed our dishes to help her out and chatted to the young Japanese walker who turned up late last night asking for food and a bath. He was camping and Esther showed him a space beside the church and was so kind to him. He is a student and hoping to walk to Santiago but has French friends to visit so may not make it to the end.

Today’s walk was reasonably gentle and short. We deviated from the GR65 ( Chemin St Jacques) to follow the ridge and end up beside the Lot River for the next two days .

We walked through lanes and rough tracks, many with dry stone rock walls with wild honeysuckle and dog roses. This area was depopulated when phyloxia struck in the 1830s which explains the fields apparently let go wild and now being reforested with Oaks, Mountain ash and a type of Maple.

We also came across prehistoric burial sites called Dolmens. The drystone walls are also a modern development when ploughs were used because more stones were revealed so they made walls with the rocks!

We eventually arrived at a view point high above the Lot Valley which is so neatly cultivated and a contrast to where we have been walking. We had seen lots of dead shrubs and we were told that a Box Moth has decimated the box plants.

While we were sitting above the valley we all thought this would be a good place to hang glide but it was a bit windy and a young guy appeared. I asked him if he was a hang glider ( I had seen a car with something on the roof) and he said yes but it was too windy today.

Our relaxing sit was quickly disturbed by Karen finding a tick on her arm! We packed up after that.

We arrived at our campsite at Ruissieu Triel which is run by an English couple. It seems odd to arrive in a little bit of England as the other campers are English. Our campsite neighbours offered us a cup of tea which was so kind. They have a mobile home and have been travelling around France.

We have had another lazy afternoon reading and playing cards. After the last few weeks it seems a bit odd to have so much time. The campsite managers offered to cook us a meal tonight even though the restaurant isn’t officially open because we are a few kilometres from town and the only restaurant wasn’t open! That was really nice of them but breakfast doesn’t come till 8.30 which is too late when we want to get to St-Cirq-Lapopie tomorrow which is an arty town and close to some interesting cliffs that became a tow path for the river.

We will eat cherries off the trees as we go instead!

25 th May Figeac to Gréalou 20 km.

As I climbed off my bunk this morning my feet felt tender on the rungs but I had had a solid sleep and felt good otherwise. We were the early risers and only met another French couple and the young German who had said the photo of me had gone viral. We were soon underway and climbing out of the valley up to the ridge. We were delighted to find a village 7 kms along for second breakfast and meet up with John and Wayne and meet Wayne’s son who has come across to walk with his dad for a couple of weeks. He jokingly told us his second name and his birthdate on the basis we knew so much about him already. It is pretty true. You do often talk about your family so that when you meet them it is as if you have known them for some time! We motored on and the track was undulating through both road and forest so it was delightful walking. We happened across a shepherd’s hut which was open for pilgrims to rest. We took the time to sit in the field and just enjoy the day, the birdsong and the rest. wild mint

The flowers are beautiful along the track, even the dandelions are huge. Irises are big in French gardens and I have seen many different colours. We even stumbled on an orchid in the middle of know where

We arrived early to our Gîte Volet Bleu and were waiting by the Church when our hostess drove up with the shopping. Karen asked if we could come in anyway and our hostess was very happy for us to do so. She bought homemade lemon drink for refreshments and was so kind and natural it felt like we were old friends!

Esther is a warm, Swiss woman who painted many of the pictures in the Gîte but now has no time and plays music instead. We have been listening to her practising on her accordion this afternoon which gives her great pleasure and is very entertaining. She has been running the Gîte for 17 years and told me she loves to meet new people all the time, to love them for a day and then send them on their way.

Esther told us over the most delicious vegetarian dinner ( and it wasn’t pizza or omelette), that she bought the house with the help of her parents and was going to run Art workshops but while she was renovating all the people kept knocking on the door asking for water, food, or a bed. So she decided that she would help pilgrims instead. She didn’t know what they needed but had to imagine what it felt like to walk all day. She has created the most delightful, warm, comfortable and quirky Gite with her artistic flair. Her cooking is fantastic too.

24 th May Livinhac to Figeac 23km

After a restless night in the tent I woke feeling a bit out of sorts. I think actually after nearly six weeks I am a bit tired. The tent was wet and so it felt heavy on the pack. We were getting away early to reduce walking in the heat which Karen finds difficult, so we were having to hustle. We walked to the boulangerie for breakfast pastries but the bar where we had dined last night was not yet open so no coffee which might have helped!. It was the usual climb out of town to start the day but the track soon turned to tarmac and my feet started to feel it. They were still a bit tender from yesterday’s road walk. Andy and I got ahead and decided to dry the tents in a parking lot. Karen wanted to press on while it was relatively cool so we arranged to meet at the next Chapel. With the tents mostly dried, Andy and I set off in pursuit of the others. Along the track we met up with John, the Californian, but were disturbed to find he was really struggling and finding the official route too hard on his body. He only has 2/3rds of his heart ( after a serious heart attack many years ago), and has developed a sore knee. He was taking the road because it was easier for him.

When we met up with the others at the Chapel I was already in agony. We decided to also take the road to shorten the day slightly.. Now it was me who was struggling. My feet were burning! The small gel pads I had put into my boot were not helping and my left foot was screaming. We detoured into St Felix to a bar. The first thing I did was take off my boots and socks to liberate my feet. Relief! Just sitting down helps. I decided to change my socks for the lighter ones and have a beer and a coffee! John and Wayne were there already. They were saying how hard the last few days were on them both.

Haynaking in the fields.

While we were enjoying our drinks a group of other pilgrims arrived. One German woman was complaining about her feet and then went on to say that all the pilgrims have a problem, be it feet, knees, backs, shoulders or their packs! Jean Michel piped up and said he didn’t have any problems. Everyone in unison laughingly told him he should go home! I chimed in and said we could give him a problem. He of course declined to take on a problem. It was all very merry. As we left I said he might be lucky and find a problem!

My feet had appreciated the change of socks and rest and I motored on without too much trouble after that. We stopped further along for another break and a lone Aussie turned up. We chatted for a while but he moved on and I haven’t seen him since.

We came across an interesting house with a dovecot in the roof. Dovecotes and pigeonieres were quite common in the area in the last few centuries in this area. We also saw the round huts, Cazelles. They were used for shelter by shepherds through the summer.

We arrived in Figeac without knowing much about it. Our first stop was for an ice cream because the Gîtes don’t usually open till 3.00 pm. After that we wound our way through the winding medieval streets to our Gîte Celia. It is the first time we have been on the ground floor! It is quite small and comfy enough. It had the smallest shower I have seen since Spain! No room to dress only shower. We did our usual chores then went off to explore. They had a free exhibition about the history of Figeac which had been a powerhouse of commerce and abbeys during medieval times. About five different orders set up convents and monasteries to minister to pilgrims and the population and at one stage trade with England was strong in linen, wool and wine. At one stage during the 1600s the place was under Protestant control for about 60 years but then the plague and the 100 years war decimated the population. It was an interesting town.

They have a museum of writing. Apparently someone from here cracked the hieroglyphs on the Rosetta Stone and this is a replica in a courtyard beside the museum.

We were all very tired and after bumping into Mary, who was still having phone problems and whose luggage had yet to be delivered, we shared a drink and then went off to dinner at the Gîte. Jean Michel and his friend the Dutchman, Jan, were staying there too. We have bumped into them several times over the last few days. The tall Dutchman has got a bad knee and has had to have his bag shifted for him. He said that their was a photo of me that had gone viral! I was notable for my big packpack and small size. The strong little Aussie woman.

He and his friend Jean Michel were having an amazing adventure and loving meeting so many people and seeing everyone so happy. He said they were finding it life changing.

We chatted for awhile but I was so tired I needed to go to bed and write the blog. Trouble was I kept falling asleep so I eventually gave in and slept! Andy stayed on chatting and seemed to have a great time.