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I had a bad night with indigestion from the Tandoori meal so I sat up to sleep half the night. Deborah slept soundly but woke up feeling stiff until she started to move around. We are all feeling stiff. Our pace is consistently fast but we are all getting fitter. Our breakfast at Croft house was delicious and presented so attractively with fine china and silverware. The breakfasts are generally very hearty so I suspect I am putting on weight even though I am doing hard walking.

The way markers for our track are few and quite arbitrary as to where they are placed. Our guide has helped several independent walkers to take the correct path.

We set off for Keld with a sharp, steep incline towards the 9 Standards. These are curious stone cairns that nobody seems to understand who, or what they were meant for. They are the border between the Lakes district and the Yorkshire Moors.

From the top of the hill( after about three false tops!) you can see how far we have come and how far we are going! Then we plunged into the notorious bogs. Some parts were so deep and mucky you could lose your boots. We had to be careful not to lose our footing. They have put in a new slate path, at great expense, over the worst of the bog but I still managed to drop my foot into a few. We are also walking across incredibly soggy grass which oozes muddy water with every step.

Finally we reach the end of the bog and are overlooking the valley with sheep and farmhouses. We are very happy to find ourselves at the Shepardess’s for tea and scones soon after. The Shepardess is Amanda Owen, from Ravenseat Farm. She is a real entrepreneur and has written two books about life on the farm with her 8 children, sheep and Cream teas business. She is friends with Paul our guide and brought out our scones and cream personally. Lyn bought her first book. It was then only a few miles to our hotel. On the way we saw two girls swimming(!) near a waterfall, some Yurts in a camping ground and a lot of campers beside the Swale river. This is a popular place for camping and walking but it seemed too cold for swimming!

Our hotel, Keld Lodge is very charming with good facilities (drying room) and a large bedroom. No more falling over our bags.

The weather is fine but cloudy and is supposed to get hotter over the week.

Dinner at the hotel needed to be preordered, so you have to remember what you ordered! Kingsley told us about his wife’s love of ice cream and decided to honour her by having a three scoop dessert.That was his excuse anyway!

Another successful day. It is hard to believe we have been walking for 7 days and will finish next Saturday. It has gone so fast. Alan and Stuart are resuming the walk tomorrow so all the South African contingent will be back.

A glorious wet start. The rain filled all the streams( Becks) to overflowing and created spectacular waterfalls. The ground was weeping water so the paths were shallow streams too. A wet walk especially for me who misjudged a crossing and plunged in with both feet! Wet socks and boots for the rest of the day.

You can hear the water thundering down the steep hill so it is no surprise they have a small hydro scheme Tongue Gill. Last week you could walk across, today we are

needing help at every crossing!

The path is shorter today but just as steep and rocky. We were going to climb Hellvellyn but the clouds rolled in and it got colder and there was no chance of seeing the view for the effort it would take. We took the way down to Patterdale ( with some relief as we are all a bit tired from the first few days efforts) that ended in a beautiful view over the town and lake. The lake was blue! The sun had come out. This town was obliterated by a flood recently and seeing the force of water from the last few days I can understand how it happened. They are building a high wall along the banks now to protect the town.

I have never had a g&t like this before!

The weather is so changeable and this is summer!

The group was divided between two B and Bs in Stonethwaite and the other group consisted of ( the other) Kathy, Denis, Colin, Maura, and Sarah who had to walk around to us ( Allen, Kingsley, Bruce and Lyn, Deborah and Me), as we were staying closer to the path. By all accounts they had been fed with a fantastic full breakfast, had baths and WiFi and the

best sandwiches they have had so far and cake. We had only had showers ( water restriction) no wifi, and a continental breakfast. The group kept going on about their fabulous food etc and it became a game of one upmanship but our group were never able to score any points because our host was very warm and friendly but limited in what they offered. In the end we came up with the fact that the house was 500 years old and they came back with ‘oh, ours was 501!’. We all just cracked up. It became a running joke all day, about what Rachel had provided at their place.

Our path was very steep and involved quite a bit of clambering up rocks. As we climbed higher the views were wonderful and you could see lakes in different valleys. I had never realised there were so many mountains in the Lakes District.

Our first mountain was Greenup Edge about 1000 metres straight up. Then we walked along a ridge to Calf crag, across boggy, peat marsh to Gibson Knott and on to Helm Crag before steeply descending into Grasmere. Every summit or pass I thought was our last but we just kept climbing because the weather was so good!

The views were worth the effort but my legs were feeling the strain of climbing up and down and struggling with bogs and creeks and rough rocky terrain. Despite that effort we were all feeling pretty good. Even though the distance wasn’t so far the climbing made it a tough day.

Maura had come down with a cold and had not felt up to the days walk after struggling yesterday. She was taken to the local medical facility for a check up by the saintly Rachel and opted to take the luggage transfer to Grasmere. We all felt it had been a good decision because Paul had opted for the three summits/passes because the weather was fine. A few people took tumbles, Colin broke his walking stick and Kingsley had a blood nose. An eventful day.

When we arrived at our Hotel we were delighted to find a pool and a jacuzzi. Deborah and I opted for both after getting settled. Then washing. The hotel has a drying room which was soon full of everyone’s clothes! What a shame there was no washing machine. We have a late start tomorrow because it is another arduous climb.

Dinner was delicious. I lashed out on the lamb and a winter berry pudding, scrumptious! Lyn and I have been having gin and tonics and I am completely bewildered by the range of gins. I have tried a local Lakes gin which was light and fragrant but I am intrigued by the variety. Bruce and I have also been trying the whisky as a night cap with a different one each night. We need a whisky tasting as well as gin!

We are all disappointed that the wifi is rubbish because we can’t post any updates or even use the phone for calls. The irony is we are walking to enjoy the quiet but still want some of the convenience of wifi!

Today’s walk was fantastic. An easy walk around the lake then a steady climb initially and very fast walking until we arrived at Black Sail Youth hostel where we were able to make hot drinks to accompany our lunch! What a treat. This is a busy place because it is at the foot of Loft Beck which is a mountain about 680 metres high and an important staging point for the walks in the area. There are all these wooly sheep, Herdwick breed that apparently have been here for at least. 1000 years. The name comes from old Norse. They are very untidy and straggly looking, starting out black as lambs and getting greyer and light as they age.

After lunch we started to climb Loft Beck or Loft Craig, straight up! However it had stone steps most of the way and was pretty easy except for the wind which threatened to blow us off the mountain. The wing was really strong and constant so you needed to keep your balance and focus. The views from the top were fantastic though somewhat softened by a haze.

From the top we walked across alpine type grass to then descend. On the far hill was the Hontess slate mine and at the foot of our mountain they have a slate mill and shop for tourists, and a cafe! It was a very steep descent again and Kathy the retired Maths teacher took a tumble on the grass, jarring her shoulder. We were all impressed with the slate products, even slate art was quite fabulous. From this point the walk into Stonethwaite was about five kilometres but some was very rugged and at one point a chain was fixed to the rock wall to help you avoid slipping into the river.

We are staying in two BnBs in the village and they are a good 15 mins to the pub for dinner. Fortunately although we are staying the furtherest, the owner of our BnB gives Paul, our guide, his car to drive. As it has started to drizzle we are very happy. We go off to the riverside bar but find the bistro full of footy fans because it is the only place with reception for the World Cup. England is playing Tunisia.

We are so amused by the intensity and crowd participation as the game is played. Lots of ‘ oh!!’ Then ‘no!!’ The whole time we are eating. The atmosphere was thick with emotion. Because of the crowd we were all squeezed around a small table and eating with our elbows tucked in! We were inspired by the crowd and had lots of playful leg pulling of each person. It was a fun evening?

we are a group of 6 women and 6 men. Lyn and Bruce are the only couple. 3South Africans, experienced walker, 4Aussies( we three and Dennis an English man who has lived in Sydney for 30 years; he speaks so fast we can’t understand him sometimes!) the rest are Brits. We are all easy going and an interesting group.

Woke to a glorious sunny day. They do have them! Our B&B was very good, efficient, well organised and spotless and she made great breakfasts too. Today is the shortest day of the year- summer solstice but one of our longest walking days. We have a 9 hour walk ahead of us. We are walking up to Kidsty Pike(2559 feet) and High Raise (2631 feet) which mark the edge of the Lakes district. The going will be steep and the descent long so a few of the group have opted to spend the day doing alternative activities such as taking the oldest steam driven ferry in working order across Uldswater and back, then catching a taxi to meet us for a flat five miles walk to Shap. Moria was still struggling with her cold, Lyn was anxious about the descent ( that it the guide book looks straight down!) Dennis and Stuart wanted to see something different.

The walkers set off and soon encountered a rough path that was being renovated by the parks authorities with huge boulders. They fly them in and lower them alongside the path with helicopters. We made jokes about every walker carrying a stone up! It would make it a more arduous and slower walk! The scenery is spectacular and we can look back to many of the fell peaks we have crossed. Unfortunately the wind picks up as we climb and soon it is buffeting us around. The Romans made a road across this pass called high street which linked a fort near Brougham near Penrith, with Ambleside. It was their highest road in the country.

It is getting really cold now and Allen pulls a muscle on the last reasonably flat stage near the top. He is in a lot of discomfort. We have a group photo at the Kidsty Pike before heading to High Raise. It isn’t far but by the time we stop for lunch and shelter out of the wind my hands are frozen. It is supposed to be about 6 degrees up here but the wind chill must make it less.

With Allen injured Paul decides to take a different descent across the alpine meadows for which we are all grateful. A 5 km slog over steep rocks would be miserable! The ground is boggy and spongy to walk across so it is a test for ankles but easy underfoot. Allen starts to fall behind so Paul rings for a car to meet us at the bottom. It is slow going and by the time we get to the bottom we are an hour late. Allen is collected( wish we were too) and we meet the others for the last stage. Now we are walking through cows, sheep, and even horses through paddocks and over stiles- about 8. Having to climb some was a real effortbecause everyone is tired. Shap still seems a long way off! We pass the ruins of Shap abbey built around12 th Century. Finally at 6 pm we arrived at The Kings Arms Hotel.

After all the walking I have done I hoped to be not so tired but we are walking at a very fast pace and Bruce remarked that he had done 3900 steps but I have to do double that because my stride is short. I think it is the pace. We are averaging 4.6 kms per hour ALL the time. We only have short breaks too. I am fine but it is strenuous and I wake feeling ready to go in the mornings so that is the main test of fitness I think.

Yesterday (16 th) we arrived in St Bees after travelling from London to Carlisle and being met by my friends Peter and Monty. They had generously offered to drive us to St Bees so we could have a real catch up.

We were extremely grateful because it had turned cold and wet. They have been travelling for a few months so it was a perfect opportunity and the only opportunity to meet in our travels.

We had our meet and greet and then dinner in the local hotel. There were two weddings so the pubs were so-o busy!

Next day, Sunday was our first walking day. Our guide had put the fear of god into us over the supposed difficulty of the walk so everyone was s bit apprehensive.

We set off to the beach to collect a stone, the traditional offering to be left on the beach on the opposite side of the country,

There was a stiff wind but it was good to be walking again. We cut a pretty fast pace and our guide Paul is very good.

We climbed the Dent a hill of about 300 metre but the weather has turned wet, cold and windy. I decided to take out my new Poncho and even if I look like Quasimodo it was fantastic. Much better than my cost!

With no let up in the rain we hurried on to Ennerdale and the Shephards Arms. We arrived very bedraggled and dripping water everywhere. Debra, my room mate had a message that her bag was overweight so we went through her bag to reduce it.

Some of the others have overweight luggage too and they have pooled their excess and put it into storage till the end but sharing the cost.

Great dinner tonight.

Took a jaunt to Canterbury today and explored the town and the Cathedral. The library had an exhibition of the story of the Ladybird children’s books. Kathleen and I were impressed how the children, boys and girls were treated gender neutrally. Girls active, tomboyish even. After watching a program the night before on how most girl toys are pink these days it was a surprise. We have gone backwards!

The Cathedral is very impressive and I was further impressed by the art installations scattered around the interior.

It is of course a medieval church from 597 AD which became a place of pilgrimage after Thomas Becket was murdered in the Cathedral in 1170 and soon after miracles were said to have occurred. At one stage 100,000 pilgrims came to visit in 1177. These pilgrims made the church wealthy and paid for the magnificent stained glass windows that tell the story of the miracles.

It is a massive construction and has a cloister and chapter house as well as the remains of the original Augustine monastery and its herb garden. There are extensive renovations being undertaken and it is an ongoing job conserving and repairing the building. It also has some of the oldest Christian wall paintings in the UK.

The art installations were all based around a theme of pilgrimage/refugees/unity. When we walked into the nave we saw a magnificent boat shaped ‘chandelier’ . It was awesome in the true sense of the word.

The installation of 100 clear glass amphorae, Boat of remembrance, commemorates 100 Years since 1918 and is a memorial for the people of all nationalities who died in the First World War. It also draws on the idea in Christianity that the Church is a place of sanctuary. The word nave comes from the Latin word for ship, navis.

Another impressive installation was the body of nails. Transport. The work is suspended above the first tomb of Thomas Becker. The body is less a thing but a place for feelings, thoughts, memory and introspection like the Cathedral.

The story of St Eustace painted on the wall

For my final night we went to dinner in a newish bistro in Deal. The food was well cooked but not very imaginative and the wait staff lacked polish. It was a bit disappointing. Then we went across the road to a little wine bar where the service was very good and the atmosphere was more relaxed.

Need to be away early tomorrow so it wasn’t a late night.

Kathleen and I took the train to London to meet Kirstyn and her two boys Oscar, 2 and Freddie 4 months and have Dim Sum in Chinatown. It is years since I have been to Chinatown in London and it seems to be much more developed than I recalled. We met Kirstyn at St Pancras and walked over to Chinatown via a park near the children’s Hospital that only allows adults in who are accompanied by a child! It has a range of play equipment and sand pits which Oscar enjoyed while Kirstyn fed Freddie. We continued on through Holborn and passed lots of interesting shops. Just as well I have a backpack because the sales have started and it is so tempting to add to my limited wardrobe.</
We went to a restaurant Kathleen's other daughter, Kate had recommended, the Orient. The food was great and for this little Aussie, such a treat to have Chinese food, and Dim sum (Yum Cha) in particular, after being in France and Germany. It was a very busy lunch with two little boys but also a treat for Kirstyn to have Dim Sum. I admired her ability to just roll with the kids and to come to London on the train. I could not have faced that with the twins!
Kathleen and I struck out after lunch for the outdoor shops. I had resolved to buy a day pack for the Coast 2 Coast after trying my large backpack half empty, and not finding it so comfy. Besides I may have to carry more on the plane when I head back to France and the foldaway backpack won’t carry much. I had done a lot of research and decided on a few styles but ended up buying another Osprey. They are quite a bit cheaper here than at home and they fit me well. My large backpack is also an Osprey. It was even more enticing when we discovered Cotswolds give 15% discount for National trust members. (Kathleen is one!) I bought some new socks and another quick dry shirt. When we left we realised Kathleen had dropped her scarf. After some backtracking we decided it has gone to scarf heaven and gave up the chase.

Next we headed to Clark’s shoe stores to buy a pair of sandals. Wearing the Tevas after a day’s walk is fine but I would like to look a bit smarter for ‘normal’ days. Oh, oh! Two pairs catch my eye and they are very reasonable (especially as they don’t charge me the VAT either). One pair is a very elegant bronze low heeled dress shoe and the other is a serviceable sandal in dark navy. And both in my size!! They are both lightweight so I snapped them up. Um! Now I will have five pairs of shoes to bring home because the sketchers I sent back to England with Karen’s Mum will be collected after the walk. Well that is why I have the daypack.

Kathleen and I had a good wander around Covent Garden which was the flower market but is now specialty shops with lots of floral decorations, buskers and singers. We headed up past Carnaby street towards Oxford street. By now the working day was done for most people and every little pub was overflowing with people enjoying a drink after work. Really amazing how many pubs there are! Literally one on every corner or every 300 metres.

We went up to Euston station so I would know where to go on Saturday and time the distance from St Pancras station. It is about 20 minutes walk between the stations and I am anxious not to miss the train to Carlisle with only ten minutes spare. I have decided to get an earlier train from Deal so I am not rushing.

What was so funny about Euston Station is that the concourse was chock a block with people all looking in one direction-the illuminated notice board for arrivals and departures. They all seemed to have such fixed gazes it was like observing a lot of zombies!

I am staying in tomorrow in the hope the replacement Amex card will arrive by courier but they are so security conscious that they are double checking I am the person redirecting it to Deal. I suspect it won’t come before I leave now. What a saga these cards have been. I feel like I am on personal terms with all the fraud staff of Amex and ANZ!

Kathleen took me to visit Knole, the ancestral home of Vita Sackville-West an author, poet and garden designer. She was such an interesting woman who was married to Harold Nicolson for 50 odd years, had two sons and several lesbian love affairs notably with Violet Keppel and Virginia Wolf. Her husband also had homosexual affairs yet when you read their letters to each other they are very loving. Fascinating characters.

Knole is situated within Kent’s last medieval deer park and there were many deer strolling the grounds. The home is huge, originally an archbishop’s palace, then in royal hands and finally into the Sackville family since the 1600s. It has 300 rooms and is almost a village in itself with extensive gardens. Too big to photograph! The panther was the symbol of the Sackvilles so they line the roof.

I loved the heater that was the most modern way to heat a room at the time.

Vita loved Knole but as a daughter she was not able to inherit the estate and it passed to her cousin Edward, who didn’t want it. Vita married Harold Nicolson a diplomat, to fulfil her conventional side, and they seemed happy but it didn’t stop her having an affair and some serious lesbian affairs.

She and her husband went on to lovingly create a magnificent garden at Sissinghurst Castle, which we visited after Knole. The gardens are glorious and full of fragrant roses. She had her room in the tower where she wrote at night after working in the garden during the day. Her husband had a miniature Oast house with windows looking across the Kent Downs. I would love a room like that!

Harold office.

The property had a house for the children! They had their house and own rooms plus a library, all connected by walls and garden courtyards. The library was converted from stables.Sissinghurst had been a notorious prison for French sailors and there is graffiti from their time on the walls which was discovered during a recent renovation of the tower. When Harold and Vita bought it, it was practically in ruins but after renovating the stables they started on the gardens (which now have 2 teams of rose de-headers that go through the garden twice a week!) Women had been head gardeners for the majority of the time Vita and Harold lived there but since the National trust now own it, they have the first male head gardener (in 50 years).

Although the garden is classically designed in squares or rooms, the planting is exuberant and lush with such a mixture of textures and flowers that it is a feast for the senses. Sissinghurst is also a working farm with cattle, sheep and pigs as well as home to rare species of wild flowers, insects and birds but we didn’t have time to walk around the fields as well. They have preserved the Oast houses that were used to dry hops. There are many of them in Kent and at Sissinghurst they are surrounded by wild daisies. My Australian roots surfaced when I saw the long grass and wild flowers. Good place for snakes!

Kathleen had the book of letters Vita and Harold exchanged over their married life which was published by her son Nigel. They are so interesting. I have read a few things by Vita but my curiosity has been stimulated now to explore a few more aspects of her work. She was reputedly the inspiration for the character in ‘ Orlando’ by Virginia Wolf. I will have to read a biography!

This was a stunning day for both weather and exploring.