I woke really early and took the long, long walk to the toilets. The eco toilets are a bit like Japanese loos. They have a breeze that flows around your bottom! The sun was just starting to rise. All was quiet and still. It boded well for a sunny, warm day.
The cabins don’t have any lights so returning to them is like entering a black hole and it is very hard to close doors quietly as they are made to resist animal incursions. I snuck back in as quietly as possible and climbed into my top bunk. At first I was a bit uncertain about climbing up to the top bunks. They are very sturdy and the ladders are solid but with a large gap to the ground from the bottom step. For a shorty like me, when I backed down I was kind of dangling to feel for the floor. I eventually mastered the last step by going down facing forward with my bottom on each step. It was much easier to find the floor! Being on the top bunk is actually more private in a way. Your own little world. It wasn’t much longer before I was dressed (in the dark as well) and ready for breakfast. This was my lightest pre-prepared meal. Porridge with powdered milk, cinnamon, sprinkle of lemon infused sugar, a little bundle of nuts for protein. All I needed was hot water. It was light to carry and possibly more delicious than anything else I brought! I enjoyed it immensely. I think the powdered milk is the secret. It seems rich and flavoursome. When we hiked like this in the past I had become pretty good at simple light meals but this adventure was an impulsive decision, so preparation was somewhat scetchy.
The kitchen was beginning to fill with hikers and joyful chatter. Everyone was excited by the challenge of the longest day (19 kms). We all checked out each other’s breakfasts. The tuna and biscuits that Mark had was a bit hard core for me. One of the women from the ‘ girlfriends escaping the kids’ group had eggs and veggies and was making breakfast burritos. She had wrapped her eggs in her dirty clothes to protect them.
Once I was done I returned to pack up ready to leave. A task somewhat challenging in the dark rooms. Everyone was up so I didn’t have to be quiet at least. I had to use my phone light to check I hadn’t left anything behind as my head lamp had gone almost flat.
Sam was also ready so we set off together both exclaiming how light our packs were without everything in them! The pack hut wasn’t far and soon it was day pack only walking. Up we walked to Purgatory hill, which seemed strangely named, until we were returning in the afternoon! Along the way are all these specially designed seats for a rest. We didn’t sit in all of them but the names were fun. Eye see Bright, Sex on the cape, Haul away, Wicked winds to name a few.
The walking was a mix of board walks and paths, fairly exposed so we were glad it wasn’t windy. Lots of flowering tea tree and banksia lined our path.
The next challenge was to climb the Blade, an outcrop of stone cliff facing the lighthouse on the island.
This coastline has the highest cliffs in the Southern hemisphere. They must be overpowering from sea level. The Blade looks directly across to the lighthouse on Tasman Island and we were intrigued by how they would have even got onto the island because all sides seem perpendicular! Apparently they used to use homing pigeons for messaging but if the pigeons weren’t sent regularly they would forget the home! They would send messages like ‘ all well’ just to keep the pigeons trained.
There is a narrow part climbing up to the Blade when only one person at a time can pass through. Fortunately we were well ahead of most walkers so we didn’t have any issues with waiting.
After continuing on to the final point at Cathedral rock we turned for home. We spent some time trying to discern whether there were Seals in the Seal spa. Binoculars would have solved that question but in the quest for a lighter pack I left them behind.
Sam and I were delighted to come across a Tasmanian Echidna waddling along the track. They are furrier rather than spiky, an adaptation to the climate. It was completely calm and un-bothered by our taking photos. Echidnas are my most favourite Australian animal.
Sam and I pressed on. The distance of 19 kms started to be felt in my left foot. The sun was high and we walked strongly but I regretted not having a drinking bladder. On your own you have to basically take off your pack to get to your water bottle. While the day pack was not such a bother the larger pack is, and especially if I am wearing the poncho too. I will invest in a water bladder for future solo hikes. Now the steps going up over Purgatory Hill took their toll. On one of the exposed boardwalks Sam startled a black tiger snake sunning itself. It slithered off quickly. We stopped to see where it might be, then looked at each other as if to say are we nuts? Snakes are best left to themselves!
Finally the pack hut came into view and we took a break at Munro to repackage, refill water bottles, pit stop and then headed off to our last night’s lodge Retakunna an hour or so away.
I started to feel fatigued until I saw the Hut marker. That put a spring in my step as it was only 10 more minutes to relief!
The group from Port Stephen’s. Retakunna Lodge
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