Saturday 17 th May Yerevan

This morning we set off for one of the oldest cathedrals in Christianity dating from 301 when Armenia declared Christianity a state religion. The cathedral is the religious centre of the Armenian Catholicosate of the Armenian Apostolic Church.( think their Vatican). It is the Mother See of the Holy Etchmiadzin. They had beautiful grounds and a seminary as well as an open area where mass is conducted. The thing that strikes me continually is the lack of ostentation in there churches.

They are not huge like the Western European churches and cathedrals with lots of silver and gold( Spanish) decorations. They have beautiful frescos and vigil lamps. In general I have the impression that the Armenian Apostolic church has been a great advocate for the people both politically and practically. Particularly through Soviet era times when religion was banned and scientific atheism was promoted. Stalin destroyed most religious buildings during his reign of terror. The church advocated for language and customs and kept schools open despite Soviet pressure. They had provided hospitals before Soviet takeover.

Once the USSR collapsed the people were so glad to be able to practice their faith without restriction and it is the young who have been teaching the parents. This is what is so different here. The churches are full of young people and men.

The Priests can marry or choose celibacy. Those who are celibate wear a triangular hood to signify their status.

They also have a museum of relics that we visited. I was intrigued by a map that put Armenia as the garden of eden. The most significant relic was the spear that allegedly had pierced the side of Jesus at his crucifixion. There were also pieces of wood from the cross and a larger bit of wood that was from the Ark and found in Mt Ararat. Local belief is that Saint Thaddeus brought the spear to Armenia and a monastery we have already visited ( Geghard) was dedicated in its name.

While visiting the Cathedral a group of school children came and sang in the church, ( on Saturday!). So sweet their sound. The faith demonstrated doesn’t seem forced but happy and grateful. We have wondered whether it is a reaction to the banning for nearly 50 years.

Finally I was rewarded with a fantastic view of Mt Ararat without cranes or poles etc. It has a majesty that captured my imagination or soul and I have been desperate to get a clear photo. There is a saying here that Mt Ararat chooses who sees it as it is often shrouded in cloud and a Russian Prince came for a week to see it but the mountain never cleared!

We had some fun buying food at a food court where you fill your plates then put them on a green square that weighs them and you pay on weight. Needless to say they load up your plates when you really don’t want too much. Lots of good food with plenty of salads and shaslicks cooked as wanted. But we were not across the process and completely confused about how it worked.

This was followed by a quick visit to a market where the dried fruits were a superb display and we bought two delicious big dried figs( to the disgust of the seller!) but the clothes were horrible. I did get some pomegranate wine in a pomegranate bottle as a souvenir. The food looked interesting with rabbit, chickens, pigeons, as well.

Tonight we are going to the Opera to see Othello. It is a really big thing here and the place was full of young people. As they formally study music at school it has engendered a love and understanding of classical music and Opera. I have to admit the sets were fantastic, Desdémona was brilliant, Othello and Iago were also great but as soon as the lights went down so did my eyelids! I snoozed intermittently through the first half and then saw the last acts. The others loved it but it really isn’t my thing. Still I wanted to see the Opera house and it is large and acoustically sound but like most of the Soviet era buildings very plain.

Outside in the square there was a young guy doing hip hop, electric cars for kids and a group of young people playing a sort of circular volley ball.

Anne and I walked home while the others got taxis. Yerevan was going off! It was great to see so much life at 10.30pm!

Tomorrow we leave for Georgia