We left Yerevan for the region of the Ararat plain and the fortress monastery of Khor Virap. On the way we were tantalised by views of Mt Ararat major and minor. This mountain that is so significant to the Armenians has captured my heart. The slopes are snowy and glisten in the sunlight but are often shrouded with cloud. There is a saying in Armenia, that the mountain chooses who it shows itself to. This became a saying after a prince from the Russian Empire spent a week in the vicinity and did not ever see it clearly.
The area at the foot of the mountain Artashat was a famous centre for trade with surrounding regions such as Iran, Mesopotamia, Eastern Mediterranean cities as well as Asia Minor, Greek cities on the Black Sea and other trade centres of the ancient world. Excavations have found coins with Greek letters and ‘Artashat the Capital’. Also seals dating back to 180 BC-59 CE.
All these ancient civilisations are so confusing I need a time line to understand who, what , when and where! What it illustrates is that this region has been the centre of empires growing and dying and in constant conflict. It makes our island home of Australia seem very safe and stable in comparison! It also makes my admiration for the Armenian people grow. They are so resilient to have maintained such a strong identity over the centuries.
8 kms away.
When Lenin traded the Mountain for a patch of Black Sea coastline he brought the Turkish border very close. Some of the ancient capitals of Armenia such as Ani, were now on the border.
Next up was Khor Virap Monastery originally a prison and is renowned for the fact that Gregory the Illuminator was initially imprisoned here for 13 years by pagan King Tiradates lll. When the King became ill it was the king’s sister who suggested that Gregory could cure him. When he cured the king he was released from the prison dungeon and became the king’s mentor such that Tiradates converted to christianity and declared Armenia a Christian nation in 301. A chapel was built in 642 as a mark of veneration to Saint Gregory and it expanded to house a seminary and another chapel
Surrounding countryside magnificent grandeur.
The entrance to the dungeon was at the side of the altar and there was a queue waiting to enter. The dungeon could only take about 20 people and there was already a tour group down there. We were at the front when a few people thought they would push past. We just said the line was behind us and we had to wait for the others to come up. There was no way we were going to get pushed aside! A few people were surprised but they couldn’t go down because the other group was coming up and it was very steep and tight.
I cannot imagine how a person could remain sane after 13 years in that hole, or survive. It would have been brutal.
From here we went to the bat cave where excavations had revealed the oldest leather shoe on earth at 5500 years old. This cave is still being excavated but remnants of wine making indicate it as at least 6000 years old. It was also theorised as a ceremonial place because of human remains dating back to the 5 th and 4 th Millenium.
After a huge day we headed back to Yerevan for dinner at a favourite haunt of locals with folk singing and dancing. It was charming but loud and the food was very good and plentiful again. I will be rolling off the plane by the time this holiday ends. I kid myself that all the salads are not fattening. It has been a pleasant surprise that we have had an abundance of fresh and cooked vegetables to accompany the bread and meat.
As we walked into Republic square the place was buzzing with music and fountains dancing. We stayed for awhile then walked home.
fleetfootkath 